Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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Quirós by drone – a visual guide to the ‘Queen of crags’

March 12, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Set in a spectacular location, Quirós is unquestionably one of the best crags in the Roca Verde guidebook with a wealth of climbing across the grades on over twenty separate sectors. Historically important in the evolution of climbing in the Cordillera Cantábrica, its development goes back to the 60s and it is home to the first Asturian 8a. However, Quirós is not stuck in the past; it’s a vibrant, and very popular venue which is cared for by a dedicated crew of climbers including those from the refugio. Most of the sectors have been re-equipped with new bolts and chains and there has been plenty of new routing even in recent years.

Quirós is difficult to summarise due to the amount of climbing but several things stand out. Most prominent is the superb limestone, which, even after more than 40 years has hardly polished; then there is the variety, and although the climbing tends towards slabs or wall climbing, with fantastic examples of both, there are tufas, overhangs and even roofs! Add in a brilliant mix of multi-pitch and single pitch routes and the fact that a lot of the single pitches are of a good length and it’s easy to see why it’s a great destination.

Finally, Quirós is also very much an ‘everyman’ crag with the majority of the routes skewed towards the mid-grade climber as well as plenty for beginners and some superb, harder testpieces too.

Like Teverga many of the greatest Asturian climbers, as well as others, have left their mark at Quirós. Again the following list is probably not perfect but hopefully covers a lot of the main people: Eduardo Velasco, Francisco Blanco, Tino González, Claudio Sánchez, Javier López, Mariluz Santacruz, José Manuel Suarez, Nacho Orviz, Carlos Vásquez, José A Margolles, Plácido Suárez, José M Fernandez, Kike Oltra, Anselmo Menéndez, J Carreras, Jesús Martín, Roberto Magdalena.

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Filed Under: Blog, Climbing, Quiros, Teverga, videos Tagged With: Asturias, casa quiros, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, tourist tips

Thinking of a Roca Verde – here’s what Josh Wharton had to say…

March 4, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Here’s a review of the Roca Verde region from the renowned American alpinist Josh Wharton, who stayed at Casa Quiros with his family last year..

“I’ve been fortunate to travel a lot as a climber, and through all that travel I’ve learned that climbing areas, at least in part, live up to their reputations. Ceuse does have immaculate rock, and a big hike. Catalunya does have thousands of crags in every style, and generally soft grades. And Rifle does have enough hard routes to keep you occupied for a lifetime, and enough kneebars to justify shaving your thighs. Conversely, when breaking off the well trodden paths, you expect something to be a little lacking. The rock might be great, but it rains all the time. There are only ten routes actually worth doing. Or rest days consist of staring at your navel.

And that’s exactly why the Asturias region, and Teverga in particular, was so shockingly good. Since I’d never met anyone that had climbed in the area I expected something would be missing. The routes would be dirty, the approaches epically long, it would rain the entire trip, something was bound to be up. Instead it was one of, if not the best, family sport climbing trips I’ve ever been on. First off, the scenery was green and beautiful, with rolling green mountainsides that reminded me of Switzerland.

Josh Wharton on Samba pa ti, 8a, El covachon, Teverga

There were lovely bike paths on many of the approaches, which often allowed my daughter to ride her bike to the crag. And the climbing was amazing, varied, and never crowded. At the Entecampos I was delighted by 40 meter vision quest wall climbs, where one pitch felt like an entire days worth of climbing. At Bovedas, I was served a slice of humble pie on near horizontal tufas and pockets. And when it did rain there was the incredible, and completely protected Muro Techno stacked with even more routes. On rest days we drove an hour to the coast, and were treated to a beautiful rugged coastline with empty secluded beaches. My daughter splashed in the waves, and afterwards we feasted on four course seafood lunches for ten euro, and toured charming little cities.

But of course there are all sorts of reason you shouldn’t go too. Because of the lack of traffic there aren’t gobs of chalk and tick marks, so on sighting is a little tough. It certainly does rain a bit more than in southern Spain. The wifi is spotty, and the area is too sleepy to have developed its own hashtag. And the water at the beach was a bit chilly in June. Yeah, if fact, the place is total rubbish. Don’t go at all. But if you do bother, please leave your draws on Manumission, I’d like to have another go on that one!”

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Filed Under: Blog, Climbing, Reviews, Teverga Tagged With: Asturias, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, family climbing, Josh Wharton, northern Spain, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga, tourist tips, travel, tufa climbing

Bird Bans are starting – from 15th Jan

January 17, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

January is the time when climbing bans start as birds begin to nest – so in this table you can see the dates and sites affected.

Right now there are only restrictions in Teverga with the golden eagle in Peña Sobia and Peña Llana. But very soon, in March, there will be a bunch more affected areas and then we always have to keep in mind that we are not the only animals who like and need the cliffs!

I have all these bans marked appropriately in the guidebook but just in case you don’t have it then you can see them here…

 

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Filed Under: Climbing, sports climbing Tagged With: Asturias, bird bans, birds, Climbing in Teverga, Cordillera Cantabrica, Quiros, roca verde climbing, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga, tourist tips, travel

La Hermida guide review – Mike Owen

May 2, 2018 by Roca Verde Climbing 1 Comment

It’s out! The guidebook to Spain’s best-kept secret and one of the best summer climbing venues in Europe. Had enough of going to the usual places and you fancy a change? Fed up of the crowds, the heat and the polished routes? Look no further, the crags in this book have got everything you’re looking for.

El Desfiladero de la Hermida covers the climbing centred around the village of La Hermida, which is located in the gorge called El Desfiladero de la Hermida that runs north/south through the eastern end of the picturesque Picos de Europa, from Panes to Potes, on the border between Cantabria and Asturias.

El valle de La Hermida - The La hermida valley...
El valle de La Hermida – The La hermida valley…

This is a really beautiful part of Spain; known as “green Spain” due to the abundance of vegetation as a result of the maritime climate, the scenery is simply stunning. The topography is classic karst limestone. The gorge has very steep sides that are riddled with rocky gullies that lead up to high craggy peaks with breath taking views. There are crags everywhere and the potential for more development is obvious. It gets even better; the summer temperatures are typically in the mid-twenties, which make such a pleasant change compared to many parts in Europe. In fact a normal season here extends from late spring (as the tufas dry out) until early winter, when the first of the rain which keeps the valleys so green arrives. Though the addition of many quick-drying, walls and slabs outside the main valley means that there should be something to get on all year round.

The upper crag has so many great wall climbs, this time it's Orujo de Liébana, 7c
The upper crag has so many great wall climbs, this time it’s Orujo de Liébana, 7c

There is plenty to do on rest days; just a 30 minute drive away is the coast with the possibility of surfing the Atlantic swell. Alternatively, there are numerous paths that can take you up into the heart of the Picos de Europa or you can take the cable car up to the most famous mountain in the area, the Naranjo de Bulnes. If all of the above activities sound too strenuous, you may just prefer to go and relax at the climbers bar in La Hermida (La Cuadrono) and sample Chucho and Angela’s wonderful hospitality. However, if you’re staying in Potes, try the climbers bar (La Reunion) and sample some of their home made beers or enjoy a nice cheap coffee (don’t forget this is Spain, so prices are always very reasonable).

Tanya Meredith on the final slap of Karim Abdul Jabbar, 7b+,
Tanya Meredith on the final slap of Karim Abdul Jabbar, 7b+,

For years there have been rumours of great climbing in this part of Northern Spain but information was always scarce. Then three years ago Richie Patterson published the excellent Roca Verde, a selective topo covering some of the crags in Cantabria, Asturias and Leon. As a result the area started to receive more attention, justifiably so. Due to this new found popularity Richie, in collaboration with the local Cantabrian climbers, has put this definitive guidebook together, specifically covering all of the new (or previously hidden) crags in the La Hermida valley, and what a guidebook it is.

The first thing you will notice when you flick through La Desfiladero de la Hermida is the attention to detail that has been put into the presentation and that it is written in Spanish and English. The introduction is concise, yet has all the necessary information you need, including a very clear general map, where to stay and what the topo symbols mean. There is an interesting section on ‘Geography and Wildlife’ as well as a very important section on ‘Access and Etiquette’.

Mike Owen in action at Rumenes...
Mike Owen in action at Rumenes…

Each crag has its own introduction, including the style of climbing, orientation regarding the sun, walk in times and access map with GPS coordinates. The topos are very accurately drawn on clear colour photos and printed on top quality paper. All pitch lengths are given. However there are no stars. The authors don’t want climbers to be drawn towards particular routes, with the result that they become polished and end up with queues during busy periods, they want you to find out for yourself and have fun doing so. The action photos are some of the best I have seen in a climbing guide and really do give you that all important first impression; in other words they fire you up, your fingers start to sweat and you start mentally planning how to get there as soon as possible.

The valley is already quite well known for its amazing tufas at steep crags such as Rumenes and El Infierno. However, this is not just an area that suits climbers operating in the big numbers because what is not so well known, is the fact that there are also many crags that offer really enjoyable climbing at a more reasonable standard in equally impressive surroundings. In fact much of the new guide is taken up with crags with amenable grades that should allow mixed parties to enjoy the valley more; making a morning cranking on tufas followed by an afternoon on the slabs (or vice versa) a practical option!

The guide includes a total of 32 crags, of which 24 are published for the first time, including the jaw-dropping Cueva Carcalosa (which will soon become internationally important for those seeking long steep voyages in tufa paradise) and the long established, but nonetheless previously secret, Cicera (with its wealth of demanding crimpy climbing in the summer shade).  La Desfiladero de la Hermida is in A5 format, has 176 pages and almost 700 routes to choose from III+ to 8c+ and offers great value at £20. Please bear in mind that it is the only definitive guide and purchasing it will help contribute towards future equipping in the area. After you’ve been climbing, don’t forget to have a beer at La Cuadrona, followed by a swim in the hot springs up the road.

My advice: skip Ceuse this summer, buy this topo, book your ferry. Job done!

El Desfiladero de La Hermida is published by Roca Verde and available direct from www.rocaverdeclimbing.com

Gema Lanza, 7a, El Salmón
Gema Lanza, 7a, El Salmón

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Filed Under: Climbing, climbing guide book, escalada deportiva, La Hermida Tagged With: beach climbing, Cantabria, Cicera, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, desfiladero de La Hermida, escalada deportiva, northern Spain, Picos de Europa, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, tourist tips, tufa climbing

Cicera – Crags of La Hermida #1

July 4, 2017 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

A world-class venue, and possibly the crag that everyone´s been waiting for more than any other, Cicera has a selection of brilliant climbs on perfect rock. Sitting opposite, and complementing almost perfectly the ludicrous tufas of Carcalosa, the main sector is only slightly overhanging making for technical and very pumpy wall climbing.

Carlos Cué, Plataforma, 7c, Cicera, una vía muy técnica de placa desplomada.
Carlos Cué, Plataforma, 7c, Cicera, una vía muy técnica de placa desplomada.

It’s a mix of grey and orange rock with good friction and mainly long or very long routes. For those climbing in the high 7s and 8s there’s an endless supply of testpieces and, unlike much of the valley, it’s a venue where finger strength and climbing ability take precedence over big arms!

Vistas impresionantes, con Carcalosa detras... Alex López, Ritmo caribeño, F: José Alberto Puente Great view of the angle of the crag: and you can see Carcalosa behind
Vistas impresionantes, con Carcalosa detras… Alex López,
Ritmo caribeño, F: José Alberto Puente Great view of the angle of the crag: and you can see Carcalosa behind

In addition, the lower crag provides more entertainment in it’s own style with grey almost ‘Verdon-like’ fingery slabs and some tough, shorter roofs.

Carlos Cué, Mar Negro, 7b+, Sector Abajo, Cicera. Placa técnica de fuerza de dedos...One of the brilliant wall climbs on the lower crag...
Carlos Cué, Mar Negro, 7b+, Sector Abajo, Cicera. Placa técnica de fuerza de dedos…One of the brilliant wall climbs on the lower crag…

The familiar theme is the lack of easier climbs but with such high-quality routes it’s easy to forgive.

Routes Summary
V+ – 6c+ = 4
7a – 7c+ = 28
8a – 8c+ = 23

Another view of the lower crag, this time a super cool 7a, Corbatas de Unquera.
Another view of the lower crag, this time a super cool 7a, Corbatas de Unquera.

Children: Fine for older children but quite a long walk in and steep underneath.

Season: Usefully, the upper crag is almost never in the sun so it’s great through the summer and can also get a good breeze in late afternoon. The lack of sun does mean it can be cold in late autumn and spring and once wet it does seep a bit and can take a while to dry – though there are plenty of routes which stay dry all year. Overall it’s a very reliable venue for good conditions.

The upper crag has so many great wall climbs, this time it's Orujo de Liébana, 7c
The upper crag has so many great wall climbs, this time it’s Orujo de Liébana, 7c

 

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Filed Under: Climbing, climbing guide book, Escalada, escalada deportiva, guía, La Hermida, Picos, sports climbing Tagged With: Alberto Hontavilla, Carlos Cue, Cicera, Cicera topos, Climbing at Cicera, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, desfiladero de La Hermida, escalada asturias, escalada roca verde, guide book, La Hermida, northern Spain, Picos de Europa, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, Spain, spanish climbing, sport climbing, tourist tips, tufa climbing

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Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 25062022 A pesar Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 25062022 A pesar de la lluvia anoche me parece que Quirós esta menos afectada que Teverga: aún hay bastantes cosas secas en Teverga hay más tramos de chorreras y tal mojadas. En general muy buen día sin un calor exagerado.
Overall not a bad day and despite last night's rain Quirós is looking pretty sweet although Teverga has suffered a bit more especially the tufas. Decent cragging day.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion @casa_quiros #klettern #desnivel #escalar #quiros
Buenas noticias. Hace unos meses he colaborado con Buenas noticias. Hace unos meses he colaborado con los equipadores de Pechón, un acantilado maraviloso en Cantabria en el rio de Tino menor. La escuela es muy popular porque no solo son viás fantasticas en un entorno magnifico pero porque tambien tiene sombra y puede ser fresco por las tarde 😜 Pero porque esta al lado de mar pensamos que sera mejor poner tensores quimicos que aguantaran mucho mas tiempo. Entonces compramos tensores quimicos tipo marino de alta calidad con dinero del fondo de chapas de Roca Verde. Y las buenas noticias son que en los ultimas semana has terminado casi todo el trabajo para dejat la escuela esta mas seguro que nunca. Y los protaganistas del trabajo eran el indefatigable Jose Garrido, el dueno de la tienda de montana K2 Aventura en Torrelavega http://www.kadosaventura.com/ que ha abierto bastante pepinos allí y Sergio Torio  https://altiusaventura.com/ la guia de montana quien ha abierto muchas vias por la zona. 
Entonces mil gracias a ellos y si necesitas material de escalada o una guia de montaña piensas en ellos que apoyan la escalada (sin beneficios) en tu region y dar el trabajo a ellos… Y tambien, si compras Roca Verde puedes estar seguro de que una parte de tu dinero se destinará a proporcionar material para aquellas personas que hacen el trabajo duro agregando nuevas líneas en las regiones.
Great news, After a sustained perio of work by two of the most industrious locals Sergio Torio and José Garrido and a bunch of A4, marine special, chemical bolts provided by Roca Verde the sea cliff of Pechón has been overhauled to make it safer for longer and make sure that as a sea cliff it’s in the best condition possible. Remember when you buy Roca Verde some of that money always goes to re’equiping and working with the locals.
Photo: Benjamin Ruiz en Marinero Smith, 7a Foto: José Garrido @k2aventuratorrelavega 
#rockclimbing #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain
Acabamos de lanzar Roca Verde 3A con el patrocinad Acabamos de lanzar Roca Verde 3A con el patrocinador del libro, una tienda de montaña de referencia en Asturias @ludoaventura Hace casi 8 años cuando empecé de comprar material para compartir, José, el jefe, era la primera persona que me ayudó y sé que ha ayudado otros con material y apoyo durante muchos años – un buen ejemplo de como una tienda puede formar parte integral de la comunidad. Si no conoces la tienda merece la pena mucho una visita para recibir un asesoramiento experto de gente que conoce bien las montañas, el esquí y la escalada. 
Roca Verde 3A es la nueva versión de Roca Verde 3 que se publicó en 2021. Debido a la gran demanda, Roca Verde 3 casi se agotó en poco más de un año, por lo que Roca Verde 3A es una versión reimpresa, pero con algunas pequeñas actualizaciones y correcciones de algunos errores que aparecían (la mayoría ya corregidos con pegatinas) en Roca Verde 3. Por lo que es importante señalar que si tienes Roca Verde 3 no hace falta comprar Roca Verde 3A ya que la mayoría de las actualizaciones son menores y solo contiene dos nuevos códigos QR para  descargar un par de sectores ya publicados en la página web. 
Una vez más gracias a José y sus compañeros y, a todos vosotros, Nos vemos en las escuelas. ¡A muerte!
#climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 19062022 Despué Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 19062022 Después de una noche de tormentas fuertes y lluvia el día ha empezado mucho más fresco - ahora mismo solo 22 grados - entonces si aguanta así debe ser más on menos perfecto para la escalada aún que habrá unas cosas mojadas.
Very stormy night but fresh today and only 22° so if it carries on like this should be a good climbing day.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion @casa_quiros #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós Calor, kalima y Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós Calor, kalima y chubascos. Dia super raro entonces no se que va a pasar. Había una tormenta gigante anoche pero hoy por la mañana pensé que ha pasado el malo pero de repente goteando y vientos fuertes. Igual va a pasar pronto y se puede escalar sin problema. De todos modos bochorno.
Really odd day, after a really big storm last night I thought it was OK thus morning but suddenly its rainy with high winds. So it could be OK or could storm again. ☔🤔😂 In any case hit and sweaty...
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #meteo #weather #asturias #spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion
Próximamente, el evento más importante del año Próximamente, el evento más importante del año y muy recomendable: un finde para escalar, beber y bailar en Teverga. Pero el orden de los actividades será una decision tuya 😆
Muchas gracias al  Grupo de Escalada Aguja de Sobia @grupoagujasobia no solo para este evento pero todo el trabajo que hacen en el concejo para mejorar la escalada. Y merece la pena mucho recordar que si te haces socio del club casi todo el dinero va a comprar material y tal para abrir vias nuevas o requipar. Y gracias a todos lo colaboradores porque sin ellos no habria premios del sorteo tan chulos...😉😉
Coming up soon,  the return of the brilliant Encuentro de Escalada in Teverga, Asturias. This is fantasic weekend to climb, drink and dance the night away - and not necessarily in that order!!! Thanks to the Grupo de Escalado Aguja de Sobia for their work as ever not only for the encuentro but their work making Teverga one of the best climbing areas in Spain. And thanks to all the people who've colaborated with the event to make it an amazing evening.
@casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde @turismoasturias @teverga_paraiso #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 13062022 Sigue l Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 13062022 Sigue la ola de calor...🙄😜😂 Pero en serio otro día de nubes bajas y niebla y ahora mismo 23° pero tampoco ya parece demasiado bochorno. Todavía hay bastante cosas secas y solo las chorreras quedan mojadas. Me parece que las nubes van a aguantar todo el día. En general muy buen día para escalar.
Another day of the Spanish heatwave 🙄🤣😂 but seriously overall a pretty good climbing day as its not too hot and the clouds/fog haven't lifted for the third day on the bounce. Not wet though and the crags are mainly dry apart from the tufas. #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar #apartamentorocaverde
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 260522 Sol y pá Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 260522 Sol y pájaros cantando quién pueden pedir más. Muy buen día después de un par de dias regulares pero casi todo seco a pesar de la lluvia. Stunner of a day after a couple of shitty days. #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 1052022 Felices Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 1052022 Felices fiestas. Muy buen día en Teverga y casi no hay nadie. Soleado pero con un viento fuerte entonces dentro de la sombra hace frío. Va secando todo pero después de la lluvia hace 5 días hay bastantes tramos mojados, sobre todo las chorreras.
Stunning day but although it's sunny there's a strong wind so it's cold in the shade. Everything is drying off after the rain last week  but still quite a few wet patches, especially the tufas.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #meteo #weather #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias
♥️♥️♥️♥️. @climbatcenters ♥️♥️♥️♥️. @climbatcenters
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