El sector de La Leona, Quirós actualizado. Muchas vías nuevas y también otras reequipadas y restorada para dejar un sector mucho más grande y completo. Un aviso es según los equipadores ‘los grados falta nuevos repetidores’ y igual yo diría que puedan ser apretados 😬🤣🤣
Para ellos que quieran probar las vias en el parte iz hay sol hasta las 3/4 y las la lado de Tenessee sol hasta la 1. Como siempre mil gracias al equipazo imparable de Miguel, Lito y Rafa @rafiescandon para su trabajo enorme en toda Asturias dejando joyas. ❤️❤️
Updates of the La Leona sector in Quirós. More great routes as well as other restored and te-equipped by the unstoppable team of Lito, Rafa and Miguel. The grades are more or less unrepeated and I reckon will be a bit tough but well worth it. Sun until 3 or 4 on the left hand side and til 1 on the right.
Más materiales comprado – More gear bought
Roca Verde sigue comprando material para compartir con los equipadores de las regiones. Para empezar 500 parabolts inoxidables y tambien están bajo pedido chapas y reuniones. En total van a costar más de €1.300. Y para que sepáis, con la subida en los precios de materia prima, cada chapa puesta costará casi €5 entonces una vía de 25m con 10 chapas y una reunión puede ser hasta €70 o más dependiendo del tipo de reunión. Entonces para alguien que quiera ayudar la manera más fácil es hacer socio de los clubes de escalada como, en Asturias, @grupoagujasobia o @asturvertical ambos que comparten mucho material y hacen mucho trabajo también. O también si sigáis comprando Roca Verde sigo comprando material. 😜
(Y para alguien que quiera saber más sobre las intenciones de Fempa en cuanto a esta actividad hay reunión con el nuevo jefe de material día 27 de abril a las 6 en la casona de montaña en Oviedo).
Roca Verde continues to buy material to share with the local equippers – here’s the receipt for 500 bolts just bought and there are belays hangars on the way too. In total it will be over €1300 of gear. Importantly it’s worth saying that with the cost of stuff going up dramatically this will not buy a ton of gear as now each bolt placed will be nearly €5, making a 25m route about €70 including a belay. Worth thinking about on your next sports trip. Anyway if you want to contribute keep buying Roca Verde and I’ll keep buying bolts – and remember that local guides put money in local pockets unlike the vampire topos that suck the money away. (or you can stay in my apartment which you can find on the website here that helps too).
Y si vas a escalar en Teverga puedes aportar por dejando algo de dinero en el sede del club al lado del parking.
And if you are going to climb in Teverga you can help by leaving some cash in the hole of the climbing club hut just next to the parking.
Viás nuevas en Quirós / New routes in Quirós
Para abrir el verano 2023 hay noticias sobre unas vías abiertos el año pasado en los sectores más arriba de Quirós; La Leona y Rosa de Mayo. Las vías de La Leona son Aika, 7b/+ y Dos rombos, 7b+. Las vías eran abiertos por Berto, Aika, y Miguel, Lito y Rafa Dos rombos. Muchas gracias a ellos… Y la vía de Rosa de Mayo se llama Coda, 7a+ y es de Miguel, Lito y Rafa Como todos de Quirós ambos sectores merecen un visita y La leona tiene sombra después del media dia más o menos y Rosa de Mayo después de las 3 de la tarde y así son ideal para el verano!!
There’s some new routes to report at Rosa de Mayo and La Leona, Quiros, two of the highest sectors at the crag. At La Leona the routes are Aika, 7b/+ opened by Berto and Dos rombos 7b+, opened by Miguel, Lito and Rafa. Both are long and Dos Rombos is in the shade from around midday so a good summer tick. At Rosa de Mayo the route is called Coda, and is given 7a+ (though could be harder) it´s around 32m long and is in the shade from around 3pm and being high and often breezy again is a good summer option. This was again opened by Miguel, Lito and Rafa.
Teverga – all the stats…
Everyone knows that climbing is not like stamp collecting where the objective is just to ‘collect’, so if you are only looking for a grade or do a route just to tick it off, these are probably not the best motivations to climb; instead it should be the movement, the moves, the environment and the fight. But, and this is a big but, sometimes we all like to tick something off in our books; at least to say that ‘I did it!’ Or to remember a day or an experience. Also, it’s motivating to make a list of routes that you want to redpoint or places to visit where there are routes with the grade that we are looking for.
To do that without having access to all the information is difficult, looking from page to page in the guide is tricky so, for these reasons (and because there was not space in the book to put them) I decided to make some ‘ticklists’ of the routes and have started with of one of the largest areas in the book, Teverga. The lists are PDFs that can be downloaded and used to build your own lists, tick the routes you’ve done, or, (if you’re a completist), find the routes you need to tick all the routes of an entire grade!!!
It’s should have done something like this a long time ago, but hey, it’s done – Teverga with all the stats! So if you want to know more about the number of routes of each grade in Teverga and download some sheets in order of grade, from IV to 9a, to find your new project, or see which routes you need or want to do or which sector suddenly looks more interesting, click on the links!!
So there are five PDFs: the first with all the Teverga routes from the two IVs to the projects and the others with groupings of grades such as IV – V+, 6ª – 6c+ etc etc
Teverga – All the routes – All 805 routes from IV to 9a + the projects
Teverga Routes IV_V+ – Teverga all the fours and fives
Teverga Routes 6a_6c+ – Teverga all the routes from 6a to 6c+
Teverga Routes 7a_7c+ – Teverga all the routes from 7a to 7c+
Teverga Routes 8a and up – Teverga all the routes from 8a upwards
And to break it down further into the routes by grade, it is easy to understand why Teverga is considered a paradise for those who climb in the sevens, with 368 routes between 7a and 7c+ and its pretty notable that with 60 routes of 7a and 82 of 7a+ it is not essential that you climb super hard either.
And it is also quite obvious why having the massive crag of Quirós next door with its abundance of easy routes: fours, fives and sixes is a good thing. Quirós is the perfect companion for the Teverga where there are more hard routes than easy ones.
All the routes here are in my book Roca Verde 3A – you can buy it here
And Roca Verde Apartment in the heart of Teverga is perfect for anyone wanting to climb here.
But obviously, the routes do not come out in order of difficulty within their grade – I am not stupid enough to go there – and I cannot guarantee that every route is included, because there are a couple of new sectors that do not appear and there are some new routes that I haven’t updated yet. But 99% are there I reckon, and one thing that interests me a lot is how the area has grown; When I published the first Roca Verde, in 2014 there were about 450 routes in Teverga and, for example, the Depuradora and Esplanada sectors had just appeared. Now, more or less, there are 725, an increase of more than 60%, and with completely new sectors and many new lines in old sectors – and even I personally have done 38 new routes in the last few years.
And to add to this work, very soon I hope (with the help of many people) that I can post a list of routes with the equippers marked so that people know who has given their time and vision to open the routes they are climbing!!
Finally, and once again, it must be remembered that the tracks do not exist without a lot of work and almost all the work in Teverga has been supported and material donated by the club in the area; Group of Montana and Climbing Aguja de Sobia. So when you’re there, and next to the car park at the clubhouse, there’s a place to donate money to help the club grow even more.
¡15 de enero empiezan las prohibiciones!
Las prohibiciones por nidificación empiezan muy pronto en varios zonas de escalada de Asturias entonces aquí hay una pequena lista de los sectores afectado que cierran dia 15 de enero hasta minimo dia 30 de junio.
Teverga – Sectores de La Cuevina / Mundo Perdido / La Isla – 15 enero – 31 de julio
Manzaneda – Arnea – 15 enero – 30 de junio
La Forcada – Todos los sectores – 15 enero – 30 de junio
Y ya afectadas con la prohibicion que empezó el dia 15 diciembre son
Teverga – Peña Llana -15 diciembre hasta 31 de agosto
Figares – 15 diciembre hasta 31 de agosto
Peña Miel -15 diciembre hasta 31 de agosto
Mazucu – 15 diciembre hasta 31 de agosto
Y si quieres ver el Boletín Oficial Del Principado haz click aqui
En el video ves el sector de Arnea, Manzaneda – y mi consejo es con el tiempo tan bueno ahora mismo (frio pero soleado) merece la pena aprovechar los ultimos dias de ‘libertad’ para probar unas de las vías esplendidas…
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