Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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You are here: Home / Destination Guide – Valles del Trubia

Destination Guide – Valles del Trubia

The gorgeous, green, Valles de Trubia, situated just south of the capital of Asturias, Oviedo, contain plenty of crags and over 1500 routes, making this a great holiday rock destination. Situated in the north-west of Spain the temperatures here are nowhere near as brutal as the south of Spain; this makes all-year-round climbing possible and a summer Spanish cragging trip a great option!

Rubén Trabanco, Corazón Salvaje, 6c+, La Cubana.   © Richie Patterson
Rubén Trabanco, Corazón Salvaje, 6c+, La Cubana.© Richie Patterson

The climbing here is almost unknown and unreported outside of Spain (this is not the Costa Blanca or Lleida) and these are regions with relatively few climbers; the bonus for visitors and locals alike being quiet crags, limestone which is still mainly unpolished and a slew of very good crags to ‘discover’ for yourself. Another gratifying part of the slower rate of development is that there has been a lack of the hold ‘improvement’ and use of ‘sika’ seen in some other parts of Spain – making the climbing aesthetically very good too.

Robert on Patetic man, 7b+, Esplanada, Teverga

The routes are spread across a number of crags of varying scale, but importantly these crags are not a uniform style and between them there’s almost every conceivable type of climbing; slabs, tufas, roofs, vertical walls overhanging walls, single pitch, multi-pitch and there should be a route to suit everyone; varying from multi-pitch 5s to 42 metre 8cs!

What makes this a great destination is that these valleys contain the two major crags of Asturias; Teverga and Quirós, which between them contain around 700 routes and are the heart and soul of Asturian sport climbing. So in this article I’ll cover the major crags in the valley to give a flavour of the climbing…the others you can see when you get the guide!

 Quirós

Set in a fantastic location, Quirós is unquestionably one of the best crags in Asturias with a wealth of climbing across the grades on over twenty separate sectors. It’s historically important, yet Quirós is not stuck in the past; it’s a vibrant and very popular venue which is cared for by a dedicated crew of climbers including those from the refugio. Most of the sectors have been re-equipped with new bolts and chains and there has been plenty of new routing even in recent years.

The magnificent crag of Quirós sits proudly on the flanks of the Sierra de Caranga.  © Richie Patterson
The magnificent crag of Quirós sits proudly on the flanks of the Sierra de Caranga.© Richie Patterson

Difficult to summarise due to the amount of climbing but several things stand out: Most prominent is the superb limestone which, even after more than 40 years has hardly polished; then there’s the variety, and although the climbing tends towards slabs or wall climbing, with fantastic examples of both, there are also tufas, overhangs and even the odd roof. Add in a brilliant mix of multi-pitch and single pitch routes and the fact that a lot of the single pitches are of a good length and it’s easy to see why it’s a great destination. Finally, Quirós is also very much an ‘everyman’ crag with the majority of the routes skewed towards the mid-grade climber as well as plenty for beginners and some superb, harder testpieces too.

Exposition 3, 6a, Candela.  © Richie Patterson
Exposition 3, 6a, Candela.© Richie Patterson

Key Routes: El llano 5+, La amarilla 6ª+, Exposition 3 6ª+, El Escalon 6ª, Antoxu 6c+, Corazon Salvaje 6c+, Asterix 7ª, Ya somos Europeos 7c, Historia interminable 8a

Summary – Reasonably compact, dries very quickly, shade from 4pm in summer, sun until 4 in winter, mainly slabby to vertical, some great multi-pitch routes. 22 sectors, 271 routes, 170 routes up to 6c+, 101 above.

Teverga

Almost certainly the best climbing area in Asturias, and one that merits inclusion in any list of the best of Spain, Teverga is not one crag but comprises over 25 sectors with more than 450 routes. Besides the obvious advantages of scale, there are plenty of other factors which make Teverga stand out as a climbing area. Importantly there’s a wide variety of climbing styles to pick from. Wall climbs at Placas del Sol, Cova Negra, Eléctrico, Canal, Muro Techo and Entecampos; short, steep testpieces at Vivac, La Cabra Muerta and Pingalagua; and stamina-fests at El Covachón, Planeta X, Bóvedas, Entecampos and Pared Negra. Unsurprisingly this means there’s something for everyone and very good routes at all grades.

A view of the central sectors of Bovedas and Pared Negra with the Senda del Oso below.  © Richie Patterson
A view of the central sectors of Bovedas and Pared Negra with the Senda del Oso below.© Richie Patterson

With so many sectors, the variety of orientations and angles means that at all times of the day, over the year and in nearly all conditions, there will be something to climb. Even in the height of summer it’s possible to grab a morning session in the shade, take a lunch break, and then head out to seek out more shade in the afternoon. Once again almost impossible to summarise due to the sheer volume of rock it’s possibly just as easy to say that I haven’t met anyone who’s been disappointed by the quality of the climbing and the volume of superb routes.

Denise Mortimer on el Patan 6b+, Bovedas  © Richie Patterson
Denise Mortimer on el Patan 6b+, Bovedas© Richie Patterson
Krista Maloney Placer y problemas, 7a Bovedas  © Richie Patterson
Krista Maloney Placer y problemas, 7a Bovedas© Richie Patterson

Finally, thanks to the hard work of the Grupo de Montaña y Escalada Aguja de Sobia, there’s a great climbing scene here, with a real tolerance for climbers. Not only have they been instrumental in equipping, but over the last couple of years, in conjunction with the local council, they have developed the large parking area into a great place to stay. There’s a newly-installed toilet block and showers and, please note, a collection box for upkeep. Last, but not least, the two small bars in Entrago are very friendly, and the ability to get an ice-cold beer at the end of the day in the company of your peers only adds to Teverga’s appeal.

Key Routes: Too many but:, Via Classico 5+ Muro Techo, El Patan 6b Bovedas, Escuela de Calor 6c Depuradora, Tijeruca 250 7ª/+ Entecampos, Pocopan 7b/+ Placas del Sol, Chambao 7b+ Pared Negra, nirvana 7c Entecampos, Samba Pa Ti 8a El Covachon, El replicante 8b Pingalagua, Sacha 8c Planeta X

Summary – Extensive and spectacular, always something dry / shady, huge variety of styles, very well bolted.
38 sectors, 720 routes, 250 below 6c+, 470 above

Peñas Juntas

Varied, extensive and spectacular, Peñas Juntas and especially Sector Abajo, dominate the view of anyone driving to Oviedo from Quirós or Teverga. Possibly underappreciated, its three sectors are distinct and all worth a visit, with the caveat that the routes at El Planchón start at hard 7b+. The rock at all sectors is good and very similar at Abajo and El Planchón (it can feel a bit ‘slippy’) while at Sector Arriba there’s a bit more friction. Due to the lack of climbers the base of the crag and the starts of some climbs at Abajo and the upper part of Arriba can be a little overgrown.

Key Routes: El insoportable vanidad del ego, 8c, In da house 8b+, Neandertal 7b, La +plus 6b+, Concordia 6b.

Summary – Three contrasting sectors, one super hardcore, one ‘exciting’ big routes and one normal!! Generally stays quite dry, morning shade. 3 sectors, 36 routes, 10 routes up to 6c+, 26 above.

Jairo Pandiella, El insoportable vanidad del ego, 8c, El planchón  © Richie Patterson
Jairo Pandiella, El insoportable vanidad del ego, 8c, El planchón© Richie Patterson

Marabio

Marabio is another wonderful Asturian climbing venue with amazing views. Situated above Teverga, in a fabulous location with an enviable variety of routes and sectors, there’s something for everyone. Very popular with beginners, especially at Bloques, there are quite a few routes at reasonable grades and there’s also a lot for the mid-grade climber. There’s plenty of variety too, with some superb slabs across the grades, fine two-pitch outings, fingery walls and on Alimoches and Rinconín some burly routes for those operating in the upper grades. Overall Marabio is well worth a visit, not just for the variety of the climbing but for the majestic situation.

The beautiful crag of Marabio…  © Richie Patterson
The beautiful crag of Marabio…© Richie Patterson

Key Routes: El cantu 5, La placa 5+,Hedrada V+ 6ª, Alimoches 6b, La fisura de koki 7ª+, El rinconin 7b, Jet set 7c,

Summary – Compact, dries quickly, shade until midday summer, sun after 1pm in winter, mainly slabby to vertical, some good multi-pitch routes. 10 sectors, 90 routes, 50 routes up to 6c+, 40 above.

Pitch two of Alimoches 6b, Sector Alimoches  © Richie Patterson
Pitch two of Alimoches 6b, Sector Alimoches© Richie Patterson
photo
Mary Ryan on El Cantu 5 Sector Bloques.© Richie Patterson
The busy and popular parking area at Teverga with the crags behind.  © Richie Patterson
The busy and popular parking area at Teverga with the crags behind.© Richie Patterson

Logistics

When to Go

You can climb all year round in Asturias but probably April to January is usually the best time to visit. Both summer and autumn are very reliable and right through to January the weather is generally good. Summer is never ‘silly hot’ and especially in these areas there are shady crags so it is possible to climb right through the day. In winter when the sun shines it’s got plenty of power and you can often climb in a t shirt. A bit like the UK the maritime climate means that spring, February and March, are probably the least reliable months, it can be great weather but it can be mixed too.
It’s worth noting this is ‘green Spain’ and as you’ll see from the photos it is surprisingly verdant and mountainous – which means that any time of the year there can be some rain. The crags do dry quickly though and from this area it’s not far into Leon (the neighbouring region) which has a dry desert climate and offers an escape valve when there’s a bad day.

How to Get There

Transport links to these regions are excellent with good services from the UK, check out our updated travel page here.

Accommodation

There are plenty of places to stay dotted around the area but my recommendations would be:
Roca Verde Apartment our new rental apartment in the heart of Teverga! We have just opened this in the large village of San Martín which is in the heart of Teverga. It’s a great sunny spot, there’s superfast wifi and tons of bars and restaurants to celebrate your sends.
Refugio del Llano – Under the crag at Quirós this small refugio is run by the friendly Jose and provides good value shared accommodation and hearty meals.
Bar Pena Sobia – At Teverga and run by another Jose this is a good bar and climber’s hangout.
You can also check out this link and this one too for more information on accommodation.
Finally a great option if you are in a van is the large parking area at Teverga – it’s perfectly acceptable to stay in your van there – this does get very busy in the height of summer though!

Food

San Martin, Proaza and Barzana between them contain a wealth of bars and restaurants and offer plenty of options to sample the hearty local cuisine and partake in the cider! And for those need a big carb boost the ‘menu del dia’ served in the middle of the day is stunning value and at about 9 euro for three courses and includes a bottle of wine. Don’t expect to climb afterwards.

Gear and Supplies

In the small towns of San Martin, Proaza and Barzana there are small local stores, banks and medical centres. For a big shop there are large shopping centres and cinemas around Oviedo. Parque Principado has a huge selection.

Guidebook

The guide Roca Verde covers these areas as well as the rest of the region of Asturias and also includes Leon and part of Cantabria. With nearly 3000 routes there’s plenty to go at in this quiet corner of Spain.
Buy Roca Verde at www.rocaverdeclimbing.com or from all good climbing stores…

Read Grimer’s review of Roca Verde 

Other Nearby Crags

Within about 40 minutes lie the crags of Otura (Morcin) a very popular spot with a lot of routes across the grades. And around 1 hour’s drive and you are into Leon and the amazing crags there; Pedrosa, Villanueva and are all close enough for a day out giving tons more routes and great options if the weather craps out!

Other Activities

Bears, road biking, mountain biking, walking, prehistoric cave paintings, huge caves, the Romanesque churches and cathedrals of the capital Oviedo, swimming pools and a lake…This is one of the tourist hearts of Asturias and there is plenty to see and do around the Valles de Trubia. Perhaps most prominent is the Senda del Oso – a linked series of cycle tracks which covers over 50km and is a perfect way to explore the area – bikes can be hired locally at very reasonable prices. Finally it’s only about an hour to a variety of beaches, most of which get pretty good waves and a surf day at Salinas, in Aviles is well recommended!

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rocaverdeclimb

Que guay sale la vía, otro joya de @cesargarciaca Que guay sale la vía, otro joya de @cesargarciacarballido Vecino Clandestino...estamos esperando el grado!!
Another great looking route thanks to César, waiting for a redpoint and a grade.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #klettern #desnivel #escalar @roca_verde_rentals
Tenemos que aplauder @cesargarciacarballido y su n Tenemos que aplauder @cesargarciacarballido y su niño por su trabajo en abrir unas vías chulisimas en el sector de Cueva del mar, Proaza. Yo no podía ayudarle limpiar pero le paso material del fondo de chapas de Roca Verde: como chapas, parabolts y reuniones para ayudarle así. No es igual que trabajar en la pared limpiando maleza pero igual le ayuda algo 🤣🤣 Merece la pena irse allí y siguen abriendo vías entonces si  sigues su Insta tendrás todas las actualizaciones.
Got to give a big thanks to César and his son Oscar for his amazing work in adding a bunch of new route to the big slabs below the old sector of Cueva del mar in Proaza. 💪💪 I didn't have the time to help him clean being a lazy bastard but at least I can help by donating material from the bolt fund I set up with Roca Verde.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #viasnuevas #gracias @roca_verde_rentals #klettern #desnivel #escalar #caluza
Pues muy buen día en Bóvedas con @galiares6a pil Pues muy buen día en Bóvedas con @galiares6a pillando a @asturiandiary mientras hizo su vía El patán, 6b+/c un clásico de Teverga y tampoco fácil con sus 35m de escalada fina. Lo encadenó en su siguiente pegue, enhorabuena chica 💗
Lovely day in Bóvedas watching Mary do El patán, a 35m 6b+/c classic of Teverga while being belayed  by the first ascentionist Gali. Nice job babe. 💗
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #mountains #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias @tenayaclimbing
Meteo /Weather Teverga y Quirós 06032023 Muy buen Meteo /Weather Teverga y Quirós 06032023 Muy buen día otra vez. Ahora mismo 12° y soleado pero tampoco tan calentito que ayer. Todo va secando pero las chorreras quedan mojadas.
Another beauty, sunny dry and not too hot. Drying nicely but the tufas are mainly wet still.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar @roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 03032023 Muy bue Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 03032023 Muy buen día mucho sol y todo va secando. Estuvimos en el rincón y casi no había una presa mojada!! Unos de los otros sectores se puede ver en las fotos siguientes: Entecampos, Cabras Alpinas, El rincón...y tampoco parecen mojados. 📷 David Rothstein en Sarah, 6c. 
Stunning day lots of sun's and some nice routes at El rincón. Everything is drying off nicely as you can see by the fotos of some of the other sectors I've uploaded.
@roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde #rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain @teverga_paraiso
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 02032023 Despué Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 02032023 Después de un par de días sosos hoy es una días espectacular. La pena es que porque los últimos días eran malos tampoco hay in montón de sitios secas. Igual en las placas de Quirós o en Muro Techo / Entecampos / Rincón sería cositas. Pero por lo menos con el sol así va secando. No hay viento y hace solo 6° dentro de la sombra. 
Stunner of a day but because the last few have been grim there's not too much dry. The slabs at Quirós may dry, but remember there's only sun until three then in Teverga there's Muro Techo, Entecampos and El rincón that should have stuff. No wind and only 6 degrees in the shade.
Remember our apartment in Teverga is in the heart of this beautiful scenery.
@roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde #rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Me pareció mucho más que dos años y medio cuand Me pareció mucho más que dos años y medio cuando el ganador del oro olímpico Alberto Gines López @albertogines estuvo en Teverga. En julio de 2020 fuimos un día para que el pudiera probar Clandestino, el único 9a de Teverga. Antes de probarlo hizo Alien, 7c+, a vista pero Clandestino estaba mojada abajo y al final casi no podía hacer nada. Buen recuerdos y como siempre cuando veas alguien haciendo tu deporte con tanto técnica con tan pocos años es un experiencia fantástica. Luego para verlo el año después en los olímpicos retrasado era inolvidable y estoy esperando a París 2024 para ver si el puede repitirlo. 💪💪
It seems like much more than two and a half years that Alberto Gines López was in Teverga. In July of 2020 just after the lockdown ended we went to the only 9a on Teverga, Clandestino but the start was wet and in the end he could barely try it. However it wasn't a wash out as he did a couple of other routes I managed to get some nice photos and spend another day with a future Olympic champion. It was amazing the year after seeing him win gold at the delayed Tokyo games and it'll be great to see if he can defend it in Paris.
If you fancy checking Teverga outr apartment is taking bookings..

#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar @woguclimbing #apartamentorocaverde #rocaverdeapartment @roca_verde_rentals
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 28022023 Último Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 28022023 Último día de febrero y es un día de invierno puro. Igual para los supervalientes con proyectos merece la pena ir a Muro Techo o algún sitio así protegido pero yo voy a hacer la yoga en casa e irme al tablón. 😉😉 Dicen que hoy debe ser el peor día entonces igual mañana salimos a la roca. Pero por lo menos las estaciones te darán bienvenidos si no se puede escalar ⛷️😂
Last day of February and it's a proper winter day. Cold grey and a bit snowy. 7° at the moment. There'll be some stuff dry for the keenest amongst you but I'm off to the board. Worst case the ski stations will be very keen to see you!!
#climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #sportclimbing #spain #apartamentorocaverde #rocaverdeapartment @roca_verde_rentals
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 18022023 Sé que Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 18022023 Sé que la foto parece iqual de ayer pero es porque el tiempo es igual. Otro día buenísimo.
I know the foto looks the same as yesterday but the weather basically is the same: perfect.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar @roca_verde_rentals
Sitio de hoy: Cabañes, Desfiladero de la Hermida. Sitio de hoy: Cabañes, Desfiladero de la Hermida. Si no has estado allí este muro tiene vías buenas en un lugar estupendo. Hay varios sectores pero lo más visitado es Pelea donde hay sol hasta las 4 de la tarde en invierno o sombra después de las 4 en verano. Entonces con los días soleados invernales a pesar de su altitud debe ser muy buen sitio. Hay unas vías maravillosas y una selección guapa para los que escalan sobre 6b/c como las vias en las fotos. Foto 1 Wences Rodríguez en vía 12, 6a+, que termina con unos pasos duros para subir una panza pequeña. Foto 2 Barbara Pena @babaidem en vía 17 6b, en que lo más duro consiste de un pequeño tramo de chorrera  con pasos exigentes.
Todas las vias y sectores aparece en el libro del Desfiladero disponible a través de mi página web.
A great spot for these sunny, winter day would be Sector Pelea at the crag of Cabañes in the, La Hermida valley. This crag, though high up has sun until 4pm and is in a stunning location in the shadow of the Picos. It's a great spot for those who climb up to 6b/c and the two routes in the fotos, routes 12 and 17 are both good examples of this. One a 6a+ tricky wall with a difficult bulge to finish and another 6b, with a hard tufa section.
#rockclimbing #lahermida #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #klettern #desnivel #escalar #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram @tenayaclimbing #climbtheworld @beta_climbing
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