Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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Viás nuevas en Quirós / New routes in Quirós

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Para abrir el verano 2023 hay noticias sobre unas vías abiertos el año pasado en los sectores más arriba de Quirós; La Leona y Rosa de Mayo. Las vías de La Leona son Aika, 7b/+ y Dos rombos, 7b+. Las vías eran abiertos por Berto, Aika, y Miguel, Lito y Rafa Dos rombos. Muchas gracias a ellos… Y la vía de Rosa de Mayo se llama Coda, 7a+ y es de Miguel, Lito y Rafa Como todos de Quirós ambos sectores merecen un visita y La leona tiene sombra después del media dia más o menos y Rosa de Mayo después de las 3 de la tarde y así son ideal para el verano!!

There’s some new routes to report at Rosa de Mayo and La Leona, Quiros, two of the highest sectors at the crag. At La Leona the routes are Aika, 7b/+ opened by Berto and Dos rombos 7b+, opened by Miguel, Lito and Rafa. Both are long and Dos Rombos is in the shade from around midday so a good summer tick. At Rosa de Mayo the route is called Coda, and is given 7a+ (though could be harder) it´s around 32m long and is in the shade from around 3pm and being high and often breezy again is a good summer option. This was again opened by Miguel, Lito and Rafa.

Sector La Leona, Quirós
Rosa de Mayo, Quirós

Hunting Unicorns – New Video of Ginseng, 7c+, Muro Techo, Teverga.

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How to hunt a unicorn! Surprise it? When we went to muro Techo on a stunning January day, Jairo ended up showing his friend Ginseng, 7c+, an old-school fingery, pokey route that breeches a couple of roofs at the right hand side of the crag via some brutal moves.

This route had eleuded him for 20 years or so and in his words had become a ‘unicorn’ – something mythical never to be caught. As it went all a bit better than he thought he decided to give a it a redpoint just to see if maybe he could catch at last this mythical beast!


So if you fancy a trip to try routes like this – in weather like this instead of shitty UK weather get in touch. Our new apartment, Roca Verde Apartment, is up and running and just five minutes from around 1000 routes.

Como cazar un unicornio! Video nuevo de Ginseng, 7c+, Muro Techo, Teverga.

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¡Como cazar un unicornio! Jairo Pandiella vuelve a la parte derecha de Muro Techo, Teverga donde hay unas vías exigentes de regletinas y techo, y una que le ha escapado muchas veces. Ginseng, 7c+, tiene unas sequencias dinámicas, duras y bastante ‘old-school’ y se ha convertido en su ‘unicornio’.
Cuando volvió alli a primeros de enero Jairo aprovechó para enseñar a su compañero Javi Pec un ‘clásico’ de su estilo y, al final, le dió unos pegues también para ver si podía soprender este bestia mítica!!

Y recuerda que puedes comprar el libro Roca Verde 3A aqui

Y si te apetece venir a Teverga para probar uno de casi mil vías aquí tenemos nuestro apartamento – Apartamento Roca Verde – justo en San Martin solo 5 minutos de los sectores

 

New Video – Climbing at El Rincón, Teverga, Asturias

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El Rincón is a ‘new’ sector in the heart of Teverga in the zone that includes Placas del Sol and Cova Negra. I first went here about three years ago (when there were just three routes, all good and all re-equipped) but it was obvious I could do more. So after some hard work there are now about 30 routes all on good rock, between V+ and and 8a more or less (there’s still some not redpointed). There is a good range of grades and styles up to 30m in length. It’s a decent sector and well worth a visit there is sun after about 2pm and it dries very quickly after rain. Thanks to Grupo Aguja Sobia for help with bolts and belays.

If you fancy a stay in the area our new flat Roca Verde Apartment is five minutes from here and has accommodation for five people:

Anyway here’s the video, the first in a series about different venues in Asturias.

New Video – Sabrina, 7c, Pared Negra, Teverga

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Pared Negra, Teverga, Asturias has a collection of impressive and superb routes, especially for people who climb in the higher grades, say 7b+ and above. And though it’s hard to say, possibly the best route is Sabrina, 7c, which, after a boulder problem start has an amazing tufa section followed by a couple of heartbreaker slab moves to finish. 

Thirty five metres long, difficult and with unbeatable quality, it is another quality addition from one of the regions most prolific equippers, Tino González (and it was the first on this part of the wall) and comes very highly recommended. In this video an English visitor Graham Baxter, after falling on sight, has his redpoint, knowing what to do, but without having fully worked the route so leaving a bit of room for doubt!!.

Pared Negra is one of the many sectors in Teverga and you can get the most up-to-date guide to the area here https://bit.ly/RocaVerde3A if you are in Europe. #climbing #rockclimbing #sportclimbing

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