Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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Noticias Importantes Pechón requipado – Important News Pechón re-equiped

June 20, 2022 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Buenas noticias. Hace unos meses el fondo de chapas de Roca Verde dio material a los equipadores de Pechón, un acantilado maraviloso en Cantabria en el rio de Tino menor.

La escuela es muy popular porque no solo son viás fantasticas en un entorno pero por tiene sombra por al tarde y el aproximacion es tan facil. Pero porque esta al lado de mar pensamos que sera mejor poner tensores quimicos que aguantaran mucho mas tiempo. Entonces compramos tensores quimicos tipo marino de alta calidad (y tampoco barato) para hacer buen trabajo.

Y las buenas noticias son que en los ultimas semana has terminado casi todo el trabajo para que la escuela esta mas seguro que nunca. Y los protaganistas del trabajo eran Sergio Torio  https://altiusaventura.com/ la guia de montana quien ha abierto muchas vias por la zona y el indefatigable Jose Garrido, el dueno de la tienda de montana K2 Aventura en Torrelavega http://www.kadosaventura.com/ otro que ha abierto bastante pepinos alli.

Entonces mil gracias a ellos y si necestas material de escalada o una guia recuerdes quien son que apoyan la escalada (sin beneficios) en tu region y dar el trabajo a ellos… Y tambien, si compras Roca Verde puedes estar seguro de que una parte de tu dinero se destinará a proporcionar material para aquellas personas que hacen el trabajo duro agregando nuevas líneas en las regiones.

Tensor quimico inoxidable A4 tipo marino – A4 stainless chemical bolt

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great news, After a sustained perio of work by two of the most industrious locals Sergio Torio and José Garrido and a bunch of A4, marine special, chemical bolts provided by Roca Verde the sea cliff of Pechón has been overhauled to make it safer for longer and make sure that as a sea cliff it’s in the best condition possible. Remember when you buy Roca Verde some of that money always goes to re’equiping and working with the locals.

Marinero Smith, 7a Foto: José Garrido

 

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Filed Under: Blog, Climbing, climbing guide book, Croquis, La Hermida, sports climbing, Uncategorized, Vias nuevas

La Hermida – ya este en las tiendas y anunciamos el ganador de los gatos…

July 17, 2021 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Hola tod@s…

Por fin esta listo el libro nuevo – El Desfiladero de La Hermida 2. Y lo puedes comprar por toda la region y en muchas tiendas! O lo puedes comprar aqui a traves de mi pagina…

También hemos hecho el sorteo para la gente que ha comprado el libro en venta anticipada y para determinar el ganador/a de los gatos Tenaya!!

Y el ganador era: Daniel Llorente Herranz. Enhorbuena Daniel…

Y muchas gracias a Tenaya…

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Filed Under: Climbing, climbing guide book, guía, La Hermida, New Topos, Uncategorized

James Pearson Guest Blog – Roca Verde Road Trip – Day 1 + 2 Eastern Asturias

January 22, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

“Sometimes our trips are meticulously planned and sometimes they just happen, often at the whim of others. Our Roca Verde road trip was the latter. Touching down at night in late October to Santander after a week of work in England we were looking forward to a climbing break – but we hadn’t a clue what to expect – all we knew was that we had seven days guided round the region.  

Our good friend Richie Patterson, the author of the first English language guide to a block of north-west Spain he’d christened Roca Verde, had invited us; but we didn’t really know where we were going or what the area encompassed. We’d actually not climbed in Spain for a while as we are always looking to go a little ‘off-piste’ as the crowds and polish of the major destinations,  don’t really appeal. So when Richie promised unpolished rock, empty crags and plenty of great routes – we were intrigued enough to give it a go!”  James Pearson

Day 1 – La Hermida – Cantabria

Arriving in the dark, never gives a sense of the surroundings so it was a big surprise to wake up in an enormous, steep-sided valley. Not only because it was filled with huge crags but also because it was incredibly green, tree-lined and not at all ‘Spanish’ looking.

The Desfiladero de La Hermida marks the Eastern border of the mountains of the Picos de Europa and is the one of the major tourist routes into the heart of the mountains. Our hotel, La Cuadrona, a beautifully restored traditional building, was a bit further north, at the centre of the climbing in the village of La Hermida itself. Known as the climber’s bar the owners were incredibly friendly, used to dealing with foreigners and knew to provide the sort of ‘mountainous’ breakfast that it turned out we were going to need for the day!

How big?!? Carcalosa is really impressive…

I say that because Richie had arranged a bit of a treat, a visit with one of the busiest local equippers, Alberto Hontavilla, to his latest work in progress. A stack of exceptional routes in the huge cave of Carcalosa. Imposing and tufa-strewn it’s also situated on the ‘wrong’ side of the river and perched above a slope that necessitates a 45 minute hike. Braving the icy water we crossed and made our way up the hillside, marveling at the dedication needed to even create the path, never mind to slog with all the gear needed for equipping.  Secretly we wondered if this was not the beginning of just another of Richie’s ‘brilliant ideas’, yet as we pulled on the last of the fixed ropes and the full extent of the cave came into view, we realised it was totally worth it.  A deep, seemingly bottomless hole flanked on either side by steep, tufa covered walls.  Not at all the type of limestone we were expecting!

Alberto Hontavilla on his project

All in all there are around 50 routes from 6a and up to 8b, with many projects still to climb. Slap bang in the middle of the main wall is Dimensión Paralela 7c+ and the “tram line” tufas just have to be climbed.  At 40 meters long, it is an endurance marathon, and doesn’t give up anything until just before the chain.  At the end of the day we couldn’t have been more pleasantly surprised!  Perfect rock, brilliant routes, friendly locals, and superb views.  Luckily for us, this feeling would become more and more common as the week went on!

Caroline Ciavaldini enjoying Dimension Paralella, 7c+

Day 2 – Poo de Cabrales – Eastern Asturias

A second giant breakfast eased our discovery that rain had fallen in the night – you don’t get to be green and lush without a little water. Our intention had been to head straight to Poo de Cabrales, one of the most well known sport-climbing venues around the Picos. But, worried it may be raining there too, Richie suggested a quick-hit at the roadside of Urdon just a few of km from the hotel, to do a couple of routes while the weather settled.   He swore Urdón had a climate of its own and was ‘almost always-dry’, yet with the roads still soaking and the mist hanging low, I wasn’t sure I believed him.  Happily the walk in this time was short, around one minute, and there were no rivers to cross. We climbed a pair of excellent wall climbs, 6c and 7c, on solid orange and grey rock, that despite the falling rain were in perfect condition.

Heading out of the valley from it became pretty obvious that it had been a localised shower as clear blue skies greeted us at the end of the half-hour drive to Arenas de Cabrales, a short hop from the crag. Grabbing some bread, chorizo and a chunk of the famously fierce Cabrales blue cheese we were soon in T shirts and marvelling at the views of Picu Urriellu from the car-park below Poo.

Caroline on Infiltrados, 7a, one of the amazing tufas which cover sector Chorerras, Poo de Cabrales

As we arrived at the crag it was immediately obvious why Poo was so popular. A ten-minute hike leads up to a compact little crag, with several sectors ranging from slabby to steep. Set against the dramatic backdrop of the magnificent Picos, Poo is one of the most visually pleasing crags of the area, and the climbing’s not half bad either.  There are too many good routes to choose a favourite, and on national pride alone I should really mention Englishmen, 7c, opened in 1991 by our friends Nick Dixon and Andy Popp.  However the most memorable route of the day, if only for the never-ending discussion of the grade, had to be Lord Byron, an intense and athletic 7c(+) at the Horóscopo sector.

You can check out James and Caro’s adventures in northern Spain in a short series of movies they made about the place: their Roca Verde Road Trip.
They’re all on Epic TV so here’s some links
Part 1 – https://youtu.be/n5bil2d1Br4
Part 2 – https://youtu.be/yq37n0zej9A
Part 3 – https://youtu.be/HQ6RheBVFog

 

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Filed Under: Climbing, climbing guide book, La Hermida, sports climbing Tagged With: Asturias, Cantabria, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, desfiladero de La Hermida, La Hermida, spanish climbing, sport climbing, travel, tufa climbing

La Hermida guide review – Mike Owen

May 2, 2018 by Roca Verde Climbing 1 Comment

It’s out! The guidebook to Spain’s best-kept secret and one of the best summer climbing venues in Europe. Had enough of going to the usual places and you fancy a change? Fed up of the crowds, the heat and the polished routes? Look no further, the crags in this book have got everything you’re looking for.

El Desfiladero de la Hermida covers the climbing centred around the village of La Hermida, which is located in the gorge called El Desfiladero de la Hermida that runs north/south through the eastern end of the picturesque Picos de Europa, from Panes to Potes, on the border between Cantabria and Asturias.

El valle de La Hermida - The La hermida valley...
El valle de La Hermida – The La hermida valley…

This is a really beautiful part of Spain; known as “green Spain” due to the abundance of vegetation as a result of the maritime climate, the scenery is simply stunning. The topography is classic karst limestone. The gorge has very steep sides that are riddled with rocky gullies that lead up to high craggy peaks with breath taking views. There are crags everywhere and the potential for more development is obvious. It gets even better; the summer temperatures are typically in the mid-twenties, which make such a pleasant change compared to many parts in Europe. In fact a normal season here extends from late spring (as the tufas dry out) until early winter, when the first of the rain which keeps the valleys so green arrives. Though the addition of many quick-drying, walls and slabs outside the main valley means that there should be something to get on all year round.

The upper crag has so many great wall climbs, this time it's Orujo de Liébana, 7c
The upper crag has so many great wall climbs, this time it’s Orujo de Liébana, 7c

There is plenty to do on rest days; just a 30 minute drive away is the coast with the possibility of surfing the Atlantic swell. Alternatively, there are numerous paths that can take you up into the heart of the Picos de Europa or you can take the cable car up to the most famous mountain in the area, the Naranjo de Bulnes. If all of the above activities sound too strenuous, you may just prefer to go and relax at the climbers bar in La Hermida (La Cuadrono) and sample Chucho and Angela’s wonderful hospitality. However, if you’re staying in Potes, try the climbers bar (La Reunion) and sample some of their home made beers or enjoy a nice cheap coffee (don’t forget this is Spain, so prices are always very reasonable).

Tanya Meredith on the final slap of Karim Abdul Jabbar, 7b+,
Tanya Meredith on the final slap of Karim Abdul Jabbar, 7b+,

For years there have been rumours of great climbing in this part of Northern Spain but information was always scarce. Then three years ago Richie Patterson published the excellent Roca Verde, a selective topo covering some of the crags in Cantabria, Asturias and Leon. As a result the area started to receive more attention, justifiably so. Due to this new found popularity Richie, in collaboration with the local Cantabrian climbers, has put this definitive guidebook together, specifically covering all of the new (or previously hidden) crags in the La Hermida valley, and what a guidebook it is.

The first thing you will notice when you flick through La Desfiladero de la Hermida is the attention to detail that has been put into the presentation and that it is written in Spanish and English. The introduction is concise, yet has all the necessary information you need, including a very clear general map, where to stay and what the topo symbols mean. There is an interesting section on ‘Geography and Wildlife’ as well as a very important section on ‘Access and Etiquette’.

Mike Owen in action at Rumenes...
Mike Owen in action at Rumenes…

Each crag has its own introduction, including the style of climbing, orientation regarding the sun, walk in times and access map with GPS coordinates. The topos are very accurately drawn on clear colour photos and printed on top quality paper. All pitch lengths are given. However there are no stars. The authors don’t want climbers to be drawn towards particular routes, with the result that they become polished and end up with queues during busy periods, they want you to find out for yourself and have fun doing so. The action photos are some of the best I have seen in a climbing guide and really do give you that all important first impression; in other words they fire you up, your fingers start to sweat and you start mentally planning how to get there as soon as possible.

The valley is already quite well known for its amazing tufas at steep crags such as Rumenes and El Infierno. However, this is not just an area that suits climbers operating in the big numbers because what is not so well known, is the fact that there are also many crags that offer really enjoyable climbing at a more reasonable standard in equally impressive surroundings. In fact much of the new guide is taken up with crags with amenable grades that should allow mixed parties to enjoy the valley more; making a morning cranking on tufas followed by an afternoon on the slabs (or vice versa) a practical option!

The guide includes a total of 32 crags, of which 24 are published for the first time, including the jaw-dropping Cueva Carcalosa (which will soon become internationally important for those seeking long steep voyages in tufa paradise) and the long established, but nonetheless previously secret, Cicera (with its wealth of demanding crimpy climbing in the summer shade).  La Desfiladero de la Hermida is in A5 format, has 176 pages and almost 700 routes to choose from III+ to 8c+ and offers great value at £20. Please bear in mind that it is the only definitive guide and purchasing it will help contribute towards future equipping in the area. After you’ve been climbing, don’t forget to have a beer at La Cuadrona, followed by a swim in the hot springs up the road.

My advice: skip Ceuse this summer, buy this topo, book your ferry. Job done!

El Desfiladero de La Hermida is published by Roca Verde and available direct from www.rocaverdeclimbing.com

Gema Lanza, 7a, El Salmón
Gema Lanza, 7a, El Salmón

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Filed Under: Climbing, climbing guide book, escalada deportiva, La Hermida Tagged With: beach climbing, Cantabria, Cicera, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, desfiladero de La Hermida, escalada deportiva, northern Spain, Picos de Europa, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, tourist tips, tufa climbing

Donde comprar la guía nueva en sitio físico…

July 15, 2017 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Después de una semana apurada de entregar libros – y luego volver a entregar más porque se vendieron todos – nuestra nueva guía ya está disponible en un montón de tiendas por toda la región  – y ahora todas de las tiendas tienen un monton de ejemplos!!!

La guiá contiene un montón de fotos nuevas muy chulas de la escalada del valle...The guidebook cover features two of the most prominent climbers of the area...
La guiá contiene un montón de fotos nuevas muy chulas de la escalada del valle…The guidebook cover features two of the most prominent climbers of the area…

Entonces una lista de las tiendas que tienen la guía cerca del valle es:
Santander – Eiger Sport
Torrelavega – K2 Aventura
La Hermida – La Cuadrona /  Andaras
Potes – Tienda Indiana / Bar La Reunión / Libreria Vela / Bustamante de Potes
Arenas de Cabrales – La Tienda Nueva / Cendon
Cangas de Onis – Tuñon – Libreria Imagen

Luego cerca de Oviedo y los Valles de Trubia:
Gijón – Indoor Wall
Áviles – Gravity Climbing
Oviedo – D-Ruta / Oxigeno
Valles de Trubia – Bar Sobia, Entrago / Bar Aladino, San Martín / Club de Montaña Aguja de Sobia, Entrago.

Y recuerdas que el libro esta disponible desde la pagina nuestra tambien si lo quieres tener antes que llegas aquí.

 http://bit.ly/ComprarLaHermida

La portada del libro con Alberto Hontavilla en su proyecto de Urdón. F. José Alberto Puente
La portada del libro con Alberto Hontavilla en su proyecto de Urdón. F. José Alberto Puente

 

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Filed Under: climbing guide book, Escalada, escalada deportiva, guía, La Hermida, Picos

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  • Perspectives – To lessons unlearned… March 23, 2023
  • Teverga – all the stats… March 21, 2023

rocaverdeclimb

Muy contento dejar mi huella con par de vias en la Muy contento dejar mi huella con par de vias en las placas de Cueva del Mar en Santo Adriano, valles de Trubia. Dos vías que abrí, Las raíces del problema, 6b, y Lajas de casa, 6c ya están encadenados y listo para hacer. Pero hay que reconocer que casi no hice nada en comparación con el trabajo que ha hecho @cesargarciacarballido y Óscar en abrir una escuela tan chulo. Antes era una jungla con maleza hasta 5 metros por 3 metros 😮 y ahora es un sitio buenísimo. Fui varios veces pero no me apetece hacer el trabajo pero me inspiró mucho la dedicación de César y aún solo abri dos allí y no ayudé mucho estoy otra vez metido en otros sitios para abrir más 😉
En la próximas semanas publicamos los croquis de las placas de izquierda donde están ahora 19 vías. 
Very happy to leave my mark with a couple of new routes at the brilliant new slab sectors of Cueva del mar. I did two new ones a 6b and a 6c and I hope people like them. However I did fuck all in comparison to the work done by César who opened most of the routes and cleared so much vegetation that you wouldn't believe. So thanks César 👍 This hard work has inspired me and I'm now working in a couple more spots which should show results soon. ⚒️😉
#rockclimbing #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #spain #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #newroutes #viasnuevas
Otro día estupendo en las placas de Cueva del mar Otro día estupendo en las placas de Cueva del mar con el aperturista @cesargarciacarballido hicimos unas vías guapas que abrió cesar antez y luego metimos en una nueva, Lajas de ti, 6c+, que César me dejó hacer la primera ascensión. Otra vía guapa de placa con pasos exigentes entre dos lajas grandes. Gracias César! 💪 Foto 1 Maio 6c Foto 2 Lajas de ti, 6c+. #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #viasnuevas #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva
Roca Verde sigue comprando material para compartir Roca Verde sigue comprando material para compartir con los equipadores de las regiones. Para empezar 500 parabolts inoxidables y tambien están bajo pedido chapas y reuniones. En total van a costar más de €1.300.
Y para que sepáis, con la subida en los precios de materia prima, cada chapa puesta costará casi €5 entonces una vía de 25m con 10 chapas y una reunión puede ser hasta €70 o más dependiendo del tipo de reunión.
Entonces para alguien que quiera ayudar la manera más fácil es hacer socio de los clubes de escalada como, en Asturias, @grupoagujasobia o @asturvertical ambos que comparten mucho material y hacen mucho trabajo también.
O también si sigáis comprando Roca Verde sigo comprando material. 😜
(Y para alguien que quiera saber más sobre las intenciones de Fempa en cuanto a esta actividad hay reunión con el nuevo jefe de material día 27 de abril a las 6 en la casona de montaña en Oviedo). 
Roca Verde continues to buy material to share with the local equippers - here's the receipt for 500 bolts just bought and there are belays hangars on the way too. In total it will be over €1300 of gear. Importantly it's worth saying that with the cost of stuff going up dramatically this will not buy a ton of gear as now each bolt placed will be nearly €5, making a 25m route about €70 including a belay. Worth thinking about on your next sports trip. Anyway if you want to contribute keep buying Roca Verde and I'll keep buying bolts - and remember that local guides put money in local pockets unlike the vampire topos that suck the money away. (or you can stay in my apartment @roca_verde_rentals that helps too) 
#escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #León #cantabria #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing  #sportclimbing #spain #klettern #desnivel @woguclimbing
El jueves que viene... El jueves que viene...
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 15032023 Día gr Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 15032023 Día gris, sin calor ni viento y después de unas gotas de agua está mañana hay un poco de humedad. Pero bueno, día perfecto para disfrutar de Muro Techo sin el sol pegando al muro. 😜
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #escalar #klettern #desnivel @roca_verde_rentals
El laboratorio, Morcin, hay tres vías nuevas en e El laboratorio, Morcin, hay tres vías nuevas en el sector, todas de las manos de los imparables: Miguel, Rafa y Lito.
A la derecha hay dos: 17. La cantera, 6b, y 18. El naval, 6b. Y hay una extensión de la vía El roko's y si lo haces hasta la segunda reunión el grado sabe hasta 7b+. Hasta la primera 7a+.
Y más a la izquierda hay una que sale por el desplome 19. Gálibo, 7b+. Como siempre agradecmos el trabajo y para tener un par de vias más fáciles allí para calentar será una cosa chula. 😜😜💪💪
Three new routes at El laboratorio, Morcin. Two on the right 17. La cantera, 6b, y 18. El naval, 6b and one through the roofs on the left Gálibo, 7b+. Thanks again to the unstoppable trio of Miguel, Rafa and Lito.
#rockclimbing #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #viasnuevas #escalada #escaladaenroca #climbingrocks #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #klettern #desnivel
Sector Bosque - Cuevas. Me parece que hay mucha co Sector Bosque - Cuevas. Me parece que hay mucha confusión sobre si puede escalar en este sector ahora mismo.
Entonces para aclararlo la, respuesta es que si, no hay problema en escalar allí.
Creo que la confusión es porque la BOPA anterior, del año '21, tenia todos los sectores prohibidos - pero las mapas en el documento eran muy mal dibujadas y en realidad en la BOPA nueva de Noviembre' 22 esta claro que no haya restricciones en El Bosque.
Entonces puedes disfrutar unos de los mejores sectores de Asturias con vías como Piensa en verde, 7c+, demostrado por Alesio Fernández Guirado @alesioescala76 en esta foto guapa de Eduardo Velasco @eduardoluisvelasco
Sector Bosque, Cuevas, Aller. Can you climb or is it bird banned?  Yes you can climb...Lots of confusion out there but it's no problem to climb there and enjoy some of the best routes in Asturias.
#rockclimbing #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #spain #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion
Rosa de Mayo, Quirós... Rosa de Mayo, Quirós...
Al lado de casa... 😬😬 Al lado de casa... 😬😬
Que guay sale la vía, otro joya de @cesargarciaca Que guay sale la vía, otro joya de @cesargarciacarballido Vecino Clandestino...estamos esperando el grado!!
Another great looking route thanks to César, waiting for a redpoint and a grade.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #klettern #desnivel #escalar @roca_verde_rentals
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Have fun, climb a lot and make great guidebooks!

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  • Viás nuevas en Quirós / New routes in Quirós
  • Nuevo Sector y más material donado…
  • Perspectives – To lessons unlearned…

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