Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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You are here: Home / Archives for Teverga

Training #1 – Back to Basics

March 3, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

It’s strange sometimes the things you learn.

Small things which have a big effect. And when I did my year of Lattice training a few years ago one of the key things I learned was pretty basic, but had never occurred to me.

Tom put it like this ‘It’s not how hard a move you can do it’s how hard a move you can keep doing, or put it another way, what can you do when you’re pumped?’ Like I said basic. But it hadn’t really ever sunk in before. Especially in the days when I was super strong but would get six moves up a route and get pumped and fall off. This time it did. And when my test results came back and said that I wasn’t a ‘stamina-proof’ climber i.e. I could get fit it took hold. The nugget wedged in a seam!!

Tom followed this by showing me my training plan, which for the first few months seemed to have very little ‘fun stuff’ and seemed to consist of a lot of dull, easy core and lots of something called continuity.  He saw my disappointed look and continued ‘Richie, everyone needs a base to build on, something to stack all the other work on top of. And at Lattice we call that base continuity. And that’s a key part of getting to the promised land.’

And so that was the second other thing I learned; you can’t build a house without a foundation. That the pyramid that leads to peak performance starts with a wide base. The long, slow run; fifty laps of front crawl; 50km at 100 watts on a bike. It seemed to be same across a bunch of sports. It was the long slow days which allowed the hard days to happen. So, after an operation and series of injuries, I’m back to square one so I’m going back to the plan; and the plan dictates back to basics. So yesterday I did a series of shoulder exercises with very light weights led by a guy on a YouTube fitness channel who looked like a robot and today I did ‘Continuity’.

And it was dull. And I only managed three sets of six minutes.

And I sucked it up and I was happy. Because I’m on the path back. And I’m going to take it easy this time. And I’m not going to blow it.

After losing two years to a freak fall I haven’t got much time left…

And if you want to know what this magic ‘continuity’ training looks like on a very small wall with only a tiny area that’s not overhanging (and thus too steep) here’s it is…luckily not in real time!!!!!!!!!

PS This is probably not called ‘Continuity’ by Lattice or anyone anymore…

PPS  Still don’t understand modern, new-fangled ‘energy systems’ etc etc so no idea what you would actually call this.

PPPS It’s still very highly recommendable…

 

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Filed Under: Blog, Climbing, Training, Uncategorized Tagged With: Asturias, bouldering videos, bulder, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, northern Spain, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga, Tom Randall

Steve McClure – Five 8b+ in five days…!?!

February 26, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Five 8b+ routes in five days!!! Sounds pretty hard…?

I brought the UK climbing legend Steve McClure to some of the best routes in my Roca Verde book, challenged him to climb a bunch of them and we filmed what happened…

In this video you can see the first part of our 5 day adventure.

 

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Filed Under: Blog, Climbing, Escalada, escalada deportiva, sports climbing, videos Tagged With: Asturias, casa quiros, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, northern Spain, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Steve McClure, Teverga, tufa climbing

Crimpy winter wall climbing in Teverga

February 15, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Despite the fact winter in Asturias can be a bit harsh (although nowhere near as bad as the Peak district where I lived for years LOL) it’s sometimes the best time to have a crimpy project as the conditions get pretty good for pulling on small edges.

And Teverga, which has got its fair share of technical wall climbing, has quite a lot of stuff which stays dry throughout the year and at Muro Techo (literally translated as Wall/Roof) we have a venue that good some of the best perma-dry routes from 6b to 8b that are maybe best enjoyed in cooler autumnal/winter conditions. I really like the climbing here (not having the big muscles you need for super steep caves) and have spent many a day on the brilliant routes.

Here’s one I did last year, and one of my faves, Escorpion, 7c+, (which I suggested the name for as it definitely has a sting in it’s tail) which gives you an idea of the style of the climbing here.

Get the guidebook here: buy Roca Verde

And you can check out our guest house for a great place to stay close to the crags of Teverga

 

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Filed Under: Blog, Climbing, Teverga, videos Tagged With: Asturias, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga

‘España escondida’ – Un viaje por Asturias…

February 13, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Aquí hay otro video corto sobre la escalada en Asturias, y aun se centra en el boulder también hay imagenes preciosas de la escalada deportiva en Teverga.

Sin embargo, como es invierno, este video es bastante relavente porque que es probablemente el mejor epoca para disfrutar los bulders que Asturias tiene para ofrecer. Hay un montón de lugares en Asturias y mucha gente bastante dedicada hacer bulder ; y muchos de los lugares, especialmente El Cantu, Teverga (3.50) y La Collada, Quiros (4.05) se secan rápidamente y están más pegajosos bajo el sol floco de invierno. Los lugares de playa como El Trankeru y Cabo Negro son más inconsistente pero se pueden encontrar condiciones secas frescas durante todo el año, dependiendo del viento y las mareas.

Puede obtener la ubicación de estos lugares y más en mi libro Roca Verde, disponible aquí …

Y para escalar en Teverga o Quiros, vale la pena echar un vistazo a nuestra casa de alquiler en Quiros …

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Filed Under: Blog, Bouldering, Bulder, Climbing, Escalada, escalada deportiva, Teverga Tagged With: Asturias, bulder, bulder Asturias, Cabo negro, casa quiros, Cordillera Cantabrica, el cantu, El Trankeru, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, hacer bulder, La Collada, Quiros, Teverga

‘Hidden Spain’ – Asturias – Another cool climbing video…

February 12, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Here’s another short video about the climbing in Asturias, and although it focuses on the bouldering as much as anything there’s some lovely shots of some of the sport climbing in Teverga too.

However, as it’s winter this video’s quite apt as it’s probably the best time to look at the bouldering which Asturias has to offer. There’s a bunch of spots across Asturias and a pretty dedicated crew – and many of the spots, especially El Cantu, Teverga (3.50) and La Collada, Quiros (4.05) dry quickly and are at their stickiest in the winter sun. The beach locations El Trankeru and Cabo Negro are more fickle but again, cool dry conditions can be found throughout the year depending on wind and tides.

You can get the locations of these spots and more in my book Roca Verde – available here…

And for climbing in Teverga or Quiros our rental house in Quiros is well worth a look…

 

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Filed Under: Blog, Bouldering, Climbing, Escalada, escalada deportiva, Quiros, sports climbing, Teverga Tagged With: Asturias, beach climbing, bouldering videos, casa quiros, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, northern Spain, roca verde climbing, rock climbing asturias, Teverga, tufa climbing

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rocaverdeclimb

Nunca me cansan las vias de Bóvedas, Teverga porq Nunca me cansan las vias de Bóvedas, Teverga porque siempre algo para aprender o un amigo para enseñar una escalada preciosa de chorreras y líneas brutales.
Never get tired of the routes at Bóvedas, Teverga because the climbing is so good and there's always someone new to show the off to. Mick on the first pitch of Quién tiene la broca se equivoca, 6b+.
@roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #spain #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion
Hay que sacar el calendario para recordar unos eve Hay que sacar el calendario para recordar unos eventos próximos y apuntarse pronto. Primero tienes el 4° Encuentro de la muyereda que empieza en Morcin, día 22 de Septiembre con unas charlas chulas y luego, con la inspiración a tope, la semana después hay el segundo maratón de escalada en Pelugano. Sigues @lamuyerada y @maraton_escalada_pelugano para más información. Y estoy muy contento apoyar ambos eventos con unos libros.
#rockclimbing #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #escaladaenroca #montanas #morcin #pelugano #lamuyerada #maraton
Después de unas semanas parado por el tema de un Después de unas semanas parado por el tema de un dedo tocado volvemos para retomarla cuerda con unos amigos en Muro Techo. Y a pesar de la lluvia todo seco y como siempre mejor con unas nubes. 😉
After a few weeks off with a bad finger it's nice to get out again at Muro Techo with a few mates.
📸 Simon Webster on Fisioterapia, 7a.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #klettern #desnivel #escalar @roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde
Cuando llegó la segunda edición de mi guía del Cuando llegó la segunda edición de mi guía del Desfiladero de la Hermida durante de la pandemia...
The second edition of my guide arrived during the pandemic...
#asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain #cantabria
Padre y hijo en la misma vía...uno con éxito el Padre y hijo en la misma vía...uno con éxito el otro no ¿puedes adivinar quien llego a la cadena? . Dos ángulos de una día típica de Pingalagua, Teverga, Paquito el vacilón, 7c+, pasos exigentes entre presas malas 🤣🤣
Dad and son on the same route, one succeeds the other doesn't, can you guess which? A typically brutal route from the sector Pingalagua in Teverga, Paquito el vacilón, 7c+, is a series of hard snatches between poor holds. 👍👍
@ibbertsonjosh 
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #paraisonatural @roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde
Josh Ibbertson @ibbertsonjosh probando El replican Josh Ibbertson @ibbertsonjosh probando El replicante, Pingalagua, Teverga.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #paraisonatural @roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde #sportclimbing
Probando el Dron #4k #mavic #mini3pro Probando el Dron #4k #mavic #mini3pro
La Bocandia, un sitio un poco olvidado pero una ve La Bocandia, un sitio un poco olvidado pero una vez vuelves es obvio que es un sitio con mucho calidad y un montón de vias chulisimas. Muchas gracias a Diego, @diegonaranjorivas y Pablo @cervezaasgaya por su trabajo tremendo en abrir el sector. Un sector que merece la pena especialmente si escalas en los séptimos, entre 7a y 7c. Sombra después de las tres. 
📸 David Rothstein en Yernes 13, 6b...
La Bocandia, a bit forgotten but we'll worth a visit with a ton of great routes across the grades especially if you're climbing in the mid 7s. Shade after 3pm too. 
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #rocaverde3A #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde @roca_verde_rentals
Hace un par de días en Sector Río, con condició Hace un par de días en Sector Río, con condiciónes perfectas, German @yasiesovuelvo encadenando Río bravo, 7c, sin problemas mientras lo grabó todo (con un teléfono 😱) Andrelo Hoc @andrelo.hoc En el video Germán hace la parte de arriba, (pillado por Cote @coteailva14) lo más dura de esta excelente vía: entonces si quieres hacerla a vista mejor que no mires el video 😉😉
Un placer conocer estos chavales tan motivados y muchas gracias por compartir el video. Espero que nos vemos pronto. 💪💪
Y si alguien quiere saber el teléfono es un Pixel 7 pro... 
(para ti @chileniia 😘)
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