Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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Training #1 – Back to Basics

March 3, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

It’s strange sometimes the things you learn.

Small things which have a big effect. And when I did my year of Lattice training a few years ago one of the key things I learned was pretty basic, but had never occurred to me.

Tom put it like this ‘It’s not how hard a move you can do it’s how hard a move you can keep doing, or put it another way, what can you do when you’re pumped?’ Like I said basic. But it hadn’t really ever sunk in before. Especially in the days when I was super strong but would get six moves up a route and get pumped and fall off. This time it did. And when my test results came back and said that I wasn’t a ‘stamina-proof’ climber i.e. I could get fit it took hold. The nugget wedged in a seam!!

Tom followed this by showing me my training plan, which for the first few months seemed to have very little ‘fun stuff’ and seemed to consist of a lot of dull, easy core and lots of something called continuity.  He saw my disappointed look and continued ‘Richie, everyone needs a base to build on, something to stack all the other work on top of. And at Lattice we call that base continuity. And that’s a key part of getting to the promised land.’

And so that was the second other thing I learned; you can’t build a house without a foundation. That the pyramid that leads to peak performance starts with a wide base. The long, slow run; fifty laps of front crawl; 50km at 100 watts on a bike. It seemed to be same across a bunch of sports. It was the long slow days which allowed the hard days to happen. So, after an operation and series of injuries, I’m back to square one so I’m going back to the plan; and the plan dictates back to basics. So yesterday I did a series of shoulder exercises with very light weights led by a guy on a YouTube fitness channel who looked like a robot and today I did ‘Continuity’.

And it was dull. And I only managed three sets of six minutes.

And I sucked it up and I was happy. Because I’m on the path back. And I’m going to take it easy this time. And I’m not going to blow it.

After losing two years to a freak fall I haven’t got much time left…

And if you want to know what this magic ‘continuity’ training looks like on a very small wall with only a tiny area that’s not overhanging (and thus too steep) here’s it is…luckily not in real time!!!!!!!!!

PS This is probably not called ‘Continuity’ by Lattice or anyone anymore…

PPS  Still don’t understand modern, new-fangled ‘energy systems’ etc etc so no idea what you would actually call this.

PPPS It’s still very highly recommendable…

 

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Filed Under: Blog, Climbing, Training, Uncategorized Tagged With: Asturias, bouldering videos, bulder, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, northern Spain, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga, Tom Randall

‘España escondida’ – Un viaje por Asturias…

February 13, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Aquí hay otro video corto sobre la escalada en Asturias, y aun se centra en el boulder también hay imagenes preciosas de la escalada deportiva en Teverga.

Sin embargo, como es invierno, este video es bastante relavente porque que es probablemente el mejor epoca para disfrutar los bulders que Asturias tiene para ofrecer. Hay un montón de lugares en Asturias y mucha gente bastante dedicada hacer bulder ; y muchos de los lugares, especialmente El Cantu, Teverga (3.50) y La Collada, Quiros (4.05) se secan rápidamente y están más pegajosos bajo el sol floco de invierno. Los lugares de playa como El Trankeru y Cabo Negro son más inconsistente pero se pueden encontrar condiciones secas frescas durante todo el año, dependiendo del viento y las mareas.

Puede obtener la ubicación de estos lugares y más en mi libro Roca Verde, disponible aquí …

Y para escalar en Teverga o Quiros, vale la pena echar un vistazo a nuestra casa de alquiler en Quiros …

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Filed Under: Blog, Bouldering, Bulder, Climbing, Escalada, escalada deportiva, Teverga Tagged With: Asturias, bulder, bulder Asturias, Cabo negro, casa quiros, Cordillera Cantabrica, el cantu, El Trankeru, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, hacer bulder, La Collada, Quiros, Teverga

James Pearson Guest Blog – Roca Verde Road Trip – Day 6 – Bouldering

January 30, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

“Sometimes our trips are meticulously planned and sometimes they just happen, often at the whim of others. Our Roca Verde road trip was the latter. Touching down at night in late October to Santander after a week of work in England we were looking forward to a climbing break – but we hadn’t a clue what to expect – all we knew was that we had seven days guided round the region.  

Our good friend Richie Patterson, the author of the first English language guide to a block of north-west Spain he’d christened Roca Verde, had invited us; but we didn’t really know where we were going or what the area encompassed. We’d actually not climbed in Spain for a while as we are always looking to go a little ‘off-piste’ and the crowds and polish of the major destinations, however good the climbing, don’t really appeal. So when Richie promised unpolished rock, empty crags and plenty of great routes to go at – we were intrigued enough to give it a go!”

Day 6 – Bouldering – El Gachu, El Cantu and Cabo Negro – Central Asturias

Although not perhaps the strong point of Asturias, Richie was keen for us to sample some of the bouldering, and he’d planned out one long, crazy day to take in all Asturias had to offer. Knowing me quite well I think he knew that I’d appreciate it a bit more than Caro, and promptly warned her that it would be somewhat of an acquired taste…English style!

We began the day at El Gachu, a hidden gem, tucked away on a hillside, halfway up the 1200m pass of San Lorenzo.  It’s a super steep wall of quartzite that reminded me heavily of the Bowderstone in the Lake District, with a load of hard problems up to 8b+, 50 meters long and overhanging in its entirety, the problems climbed really well, even if they were not the most inspiring of lines. The location however was a spectacular, isolated from the rest of the world as you look down on the Teverga spread out far below.

Caro on one of the super steep 7a+ boulders of El Gachu

Once again pushed for time, we hopped in the car and dropped back down to Teverga. El Cantu is a somewhat more typical bouldering area; a jumble of big limestone blocks on the slopes below the crags. With around 100 problems of all grades spread over a wide area, there are plenty of things to go at. El Cantu is superb, compact, grey limestone, which forms frustrating slopers in equal measure to tiny crimps.  One of my favourite problems from El Cantu was Houdini, a rather short, 5 move 8a, which ended with a spectacular sideways double dyno!  The easier problems are just as good, and brought with them something that limestone bouldering so often lacks – lines… After a few more problems across the various blocks we settled for lunch of fresh cooked empanada, a local treat of a flat bread filled with chorizo, and chilled out as the sun danced across the hillside opposite lighting up the sectors we’d climbed on previously.

Tired but happy we dozed in the car as Richie drove us North to the coast, to the last venue of the day, and the trip. Very much a coastal region, Asturian climbers had been exploring the cliffs and boulders next to the Atlantic for many years and found some impressive venues. Cabo Negro was one of the most famous and popular, a bunch of rough black boulders sat on a wide tidal ledge, just above the pounding sea. Facing west there were views of the port of Aviles and Richie swore it was perfectly placed to enjoy superb sunsets!

Walking down to Cabo Negro

Arriving at the boulders after a short walk along the cliff top path, it was atmospheric to say the least.  Substantial waves were crashing in, over the ledge, and sending plumes of spray 10 metres into the air. Sadly, this combination of wind and waves meant that much was too wet to climb, and we began to get a little nervous as we realised the tide was already on its way back in.

James on the classic 7a, waiting for the promised sunset on a cloudy day…

Then, whilst traversing the thinnest part of the ledge to check out the furthest boulders, I turned back as I heard a high-pitched scream and several choice French curse words. For a moment Caroline disappeared behind a huge wall of spay, luckily to re-appear a second or too later, although by now soaked to the skin! At this point we decided that discretion was the better part of valour, and that perhaps we should cut our visit short. I was reluctant to leave without trying a single problem, and so grabbed my boots to quickly play on a few of the drier boulders as Caro shivered semi-naked!!

A bit posed but we had to show the scale of the waves – the day was pretty frightening tbh!!

Day 7 – Homeward bound

Settling down on the plane and thinking about the week that had whizzed by, I thought back to Richie’s emphasis of the ‘difference’ we’d find in the north of Spain. This was Spain, but not as we had known it before: the crags were empty and unpolished, the climbing superb, and the ambience was like a snapshot of the rural past, all in the most spectacular, and very, green settings!

Caro had christened it ‘tufaland’ on day one as we marvelled at the amount of rock in La Hermida but the truth was that there seemed to be a bit of everything, especially in the west.  With Quirós and Teverga providing complementary and contrasting venues so close together, there are a ton of great routes across all grades and styles, enough for even the pickiest of climbers.

Although far too short, our trip had given us a taste of these “new” regions of Spain, and all they have to offer – and we hadn’t even made it to Leon (the remaining third of the Roca Verde guide) We left surprised, happy and content, knowing that Roca Verde was one part of Spain to which we cant wait to return.

Sunset at Casa Quiros on James and Caro’s last night!!

You can check out James and Caro’s adventures in northern Spain in a short series of movies they made about the place: their Roca Verde Road Trip.
They’re all on Epic TV so here’s some links
Part 1 – https://youtu.be/n5bil2d1Br4
Part 2 – https://youtu.be/yq37n0zej9A
Part 3 – https://youtu.be/HQ6RheBVFog

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Filed Under: Blog, Bouldering, Climbing, Escalada, escalada deportiva, Quiros, sports climbing, Teverga Tagged With: bouldering, bouldering videos, bulder, Cabo negro, Caroline Ciavaldini, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, el cantu, El gachu, escalada roca verde, james pearson, northern Spain, Picos de Europa, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga

Mini Post – Vimeo channel of Asturian bouldering and climbing

May 6, 2015 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Just found this great Vimeo channel collated by Nano Montes where you can see tons of bouldering and climbing videos from all across Asturias…

Asturian Vimeo Channel

And here’s a couple of sample videos:

Climbing at Teverga, a classic, Derecho de pernera, 7c

Lolin en derecho de pernada from Alejo on Vimeo.

And here’s some bouldering, very atmospheric:

“Poseidon” (8a+).f.a. from nano montes on Vimeo.

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, beach climbing, bouldering, bouldering videos, bulder, climbing northern spain, climbing videos, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada roca verde, guide book, hacer bulder, northern Spain, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, sport climbing, Teverga, videos of climbing, vimeo videos

Latest Blog Posts

  • Más materiales comprado – More gear bought April 21, 2023
  • Viás nuevas en Quirós / New routes in Quirós April 12, 2023
  • Nuevo Sector y más material donado… April 4, 2023
  • Perspectives – To lessons unlearned… March 23, 2023
  • Teverga – all the stats… March 21, 2023

rocaverdeclimb

Muy contento dejar mi huella con par de vias en la Muy contento dejar mi huella con par de vias en las placas de Cueva del Mar en Santo Adriano, valles de Trubia. Dos vías que abrí, Las raíces del problema, 6b, y Lajas de casa, 6c ya están encadenados y listo para hacer. Pero hay que reconocer que casi no hice nada en comparación con el trabajo que ha hecho @cesargarciacarballido y Óscar en abrir una escuela tan chulo. Antes era una jungla con maleza hasta 5 metros por 3 metros 😮 y ahora es un sitio buenísimo. Fui varios veces pero no me apetece hacer el trabajo pero me inspiró mucho la dedicación de César y aún solo abri dos allí y no ayudé mucho estoy otra vez metido en otros sitios para abrir más 😉
En la próximas semanas publicamos los croquis de las placas de izquierda donde están ahora 19 vías. 
Very happy to leave my mark with a couple of new routes at the brilliant new slab sectors of Cueva del mar. I did two new ones a 6b and a 6c and I hope people like them. However I did fuck all in comparison to the work done by César who opened most of the routes and cleared so much vegetation that you wouldn't believe. So thanks César 👍 This hard work has inspired me and I'm now working in a couple more spots which should show results soon. ⚒️😉
#rockclimbing #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #spain #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #newroutes #viasnuevas
Otro día estupendo en las placas de Cueva del mar Otro día estupendo en las placas de Cueva del mar con el aperturista @cesargarciacarballido hicimos unas vías guapas que abrió cesar antez y luego metimos en una nueva, Lajas de ti, 6c+, que César me dejó hacer la primera ascensión. Otra vía guapa de placa con pasos exigentes entre dos lajas grandes. Gracias César! 💪 Foto 1 Maio 6c Foto 2 Lajas de ti, 6c+. #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #viasnuevas #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva
Roca Verde sigue comprando material para compartir Roca Verde sigue comprando material para compartir con los equipadores de las regiones. Para empezar 500 parabolts inoxidables y tambien están bajo pedido chapas y reuniones. En total van a costar más de €1.300.
Y para que sepáis, con la subida en los precios de materia prima, cada chapa puesta costará casi €5 entonces una vía de 25m con 10 chapas y una reunión puede ser hasta €70 o más dependiendo del tipo de reunión.
Entonces para alguien que quiera ayudar la manera más fácil es hacer socio de los clubes de escalada como, en Asturias, @grupoagujasobia o @asturvertical ambos que comparten mucho material y hacen mucho trabajo también.
O también si sigáis comprando Roca Verde sigo comprando material. 😜
(Y para alguien que quiera saber más sobre las intenciones de Fempa en cuanto a esta actividad hay reunión con el nuevo jefe de material día 27 de abril a las 6 en la casona de montaña en Oviedo). 
Roca Verde continues to buy material to share with the local equippers - here's the receipt for 500 bolts just bought and there are belays hangars on the way too. In total it will be over €1300 of gear. Importantly it's worth saying that with the cost of stuff going up dramatically this will not buy a ton of gear as now each bolt placed will be nearly €5, making a 25m route about €70 including a belay. Worth thinking about on your next sports trip. Anyway if you want to contribute keep buying Roca Verde and I'll keep buying bolts - and remember that local guides put money in local pockets unlike the vampire topos that suck the money away. (or you can stay in my apartment @roca_verde_rentals that helps too) 
#escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #León #cantabria #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing  #sportclimbing #spain #klettern #desnivel @woguclimbing
El jueves que viene... El jueves que viene...
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 15032023 Día gr Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 15032023 Día gris, sin calor ni viento y después de unas gotas de agua está mañana hay un poco de humedad. Pero bueno, día perfecto para disfrutar de Muro Techo sin el sol pegando al muro. 😜
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #escalar #klettern #desnivel @roca_verde_rentals
El laboratorio, Morcin, hay tres vías nuevas en e El laboratorio, Morcin, hay tres vías nuevas en el sector, todas de las manos de los imparables: Miguel, Rafa y Lito.
A la derecha hay dos: 17. La cantera, 6b, y 18. El naval, 6b. Y hay una extensión de la vía El roko's y si lo haces hasta la segunda reunión el grado sabe hasta 7b+. Hasta la primera 7a+.
Y más a la izquierda hay una que sale por el desplome 19. Gálibo, 7b+. Como siempre agradecmos el trabajo y para tener un par de vias más fáciles allí para calentar será una cosa chula. 😜😜💪💪
Three new routes at El laboratorio, Morcin. Two on the right 17. La cantera, 6b, y 18. El naval, 6b and one through the roofs on the left Gálibo, 7b+. Thanks again to the unstoppable trio of Miguel, Rafa and Lito.
#rockclimbing #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #viasnuevas #escalada #escaladaenroca #climbingrocks #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #klettern #desnivel
Sector Bosque - Cuevas. Me parece que hay mucha co Sector Bosque - Cuevas. Me parece que hay mucha confusión sobre si puede escalar en este sector ahora mismo.
Entonces para aclararlo la, respuesta es que si, no hay problema en escalar allí.
Creo que la confusión es porque la BOPA anterior, del año '21, tenia todos los sectores prohibidos - pero las mapas en el documento eran muy mal dibujadas y en realidad en la BOPA nueva de Noviembre' 22 esta claro que no haya restricciones en El Bosque.
Entonces puedes disfrutar unos de los mejores sectores de Asturias con vías como Piensa en verde, 7c+, demostrado por Alesio Fernández Guirado @alesioescala76 en esta foto guapa de Eduardo Velasco @eduardoluisvelasco
Sector Bosque, Cuevas, Aller. Can you climb or is it bird banned?  Yes you can climb...Lots of confusion out there but it's no problem to climb there and enjoy some of the best routes in Asturias.
#rockclimbing #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #spain #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion
Rosa de Mayo, Quirós... Rosa de Mayo, Quirós...
Al lado de casa... 😬😬 Al lado de casa... 😬😬
Que guay sale la vía, otro joya de @cesargarciaca Que guay sale la vía, otro joya de @cesargarciacarballido Vecino Clandestino...estamos esperando el grado!!
Another great looking route thanks to César, waiting for a redpoint and a grade.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #klettern #desnivel #escalar @roca_verde_rentals
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  • Viás nuevas en Quirós / New routes in Quirós
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