Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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Casa Quirós – our holiday cottage under the crag

September 10, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

We have just opened Casa Quirós – a picture-book pretty, traditional stone-built Asturian house that has been recently renovated to a high standard.

A great spot for climbers, Casa Quirós is just underneath one of the best crags in Asturias, Quirós, which has nearly 300 sports routes spread over 22 sectors. Teverga, another huge climbing area, with nearly 500 routes, is only 15 minutes drive.

The view from Casa Quirós on a summer morning...
The view from Casa Quirós on a summer morning…

The south facing house sleeps four and is situated in Aciera, a picturesque traditional Asturian village, in the heart of the parque natural de Las Ubiñas-La Mesa. Surrounded by beautiful peaks and passes the area is perfect for all types of outdoor activity including; climbing, road biking, mountain biking, trail running, hiking, fishing and birdwatching

If climbing’s not your thing (or your partner’s) then not to worry because the area has loads more to offer. The road and mountain biking, straight from the house, are both awesome. For littler legs the 45km long, mostly flat, Senda del Oso (bear path – yes, we even have bears!) wends its way along the foot of the valley beneath the village. There’s even kayaking on the reservoir just below the house.

See more about Casa Quirós here…

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Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: aciera, Asturias, climbing, Cordillera Cantabrica, El Llano, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, holiday cottage, holiday rental, Quiros, rental house, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, tourist tips, travel

Quiros – Sector Eclipse new, old and ignored…#1

September 9, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

There are some places I just love to climb and Sector Eclipse at Quiros is one of them. Now I don’t understand why but this is a sector ignored by most and I have  never seen anyone there. However, for me it has a great mix of routes, there’s a decent spread of grades and possibly the best 6c+ in Asturias. (Controversial!!!)

Oh, and one more thing I should mention, it also gets into the shade at around 1.30, a blessing for a keen climber in the summer months. Returning there after a break was a treat for me for a number of reasons; firstly I completed my project, secondly I warmed up on a route which felt pumpy as hell on the last visit and finally I had the same feeling repeating a route as the first time – which is rare.

Amanita, 6c+, a really good route with a bit of everything...and OK at the grade!
Amanita, 6c+, a really good route with a bit of everything…and OK at the grade!

First visit, with the ever patient Den (who seems to get stuck with me in project mode) I warmed up on Amanita 6c+, a really good (and long) route which takes a burly crack for fully 35 metres. Certainly easier the second time there’s big moves, finger jams and intricate slabs and was happy that I felt solid all the way. Reason being I’d returned to finish a route I’d bolted about two years ago.

Called Chorrera Negra I’d tentatively graded it 7a and put it in the guide even though I’d not had time to complete it. I’d had the time after bolting to top rope it and although very tired had just about done it in one go. So feeling good I thought I’d just whip up it quickly and get it ticked.

Pumped in mind body and legs with a long wa y to go!!
Pumped in mind body and legs with a long wa y to go!!

However, I hadn’t counted on the fact that A. I hadn’t cleaned it brilliantly and the intervening 1.5 years would leave it worse. And B. it was pretty badly bolted with spaced bolts meaning you had to do hard moves above them and C. it was bloody hard!!!

Starting up an existing route, El loco de la colina, it zips straight up the wall above the start via a series of pockets, flakes and some very small and indistinct holds to join the belay of Luz de alba (another very good route).  Almost immediately after leaving the start of the first route I was stumped – I’d put the first bolt on my route high to avoid any conflict and instantly it was a nervous clip. Then again after clipping things didn’t get much better as teh crux seemed desperate, above the bolt and with a ‘gripper clipper’ for the next one.

Up, down, up down, I got pumped and more pumped. – feet on nothing much, dirty hand holds and fear keeping me down. Finally I committed and managed to push on – brutal – but a decent crimp got me clipped and a carried on. Phew, crux done! I didn’t remember anything else hard until the last few feet so felt a bit happier. But, I was once again subject to memory failings as almost isntantly the territory became thin, precarious and very, very unobvious. Sketch by sketch I advanced and slowly but surely i was going to be mine. By the end I was totally pumped with cramping feet and it was will power nothing more (and the threat of having to come back) which got me up it.

Very relieved I snagged the belay and lowered off pleased as punch but damn tired.  I was very proud of my route and my determined effort, whilst acknowledging it’s failings and vowing to come back and clean and add a bolt or two to my ordeal.

On the very thin crux of Chorerra Negra now a healthy 7a+
On the very thin crux of Chorerra Negra now a healthy 7a+

So overall, maybe my first new route on the Queen of Asturian crags isn’t the greatest but it’s intricate and fun (in an old school way). I upgraded Chorrera Negra to 7a+, I am going back soon to ‘sort it out’.

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, El Llano, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, new routes, Quiros, roca verde climbing, Sector Eclipse, spanish climbing, sport climbing

Retomando Cuerda en Quirós

July 4, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Ultimamente hemos tenido muy poca oportunidad de escalar…..(igual ya sabéis que andabamos bastante ocupados con lo de publicar una guía?!! 😉 ) Ya era hora de retomar cuerda y no hay mejor sitio para hacerlo que en Quirós.

What a view to wake up to...another beautiful July day in Asturias..
What a view to wake up to…another beautiful July day in Asturias..

Despertarse y ver un día así de guapo, claro que mete ganas de salir al monte. Así que ayer subimos al Escalón para calentar en unas de las vías faciles en las placas.

Great warm ups on the slabs with the steeper pitches of Depiedradores (the groove) and Corner (the arete) obvious above...
Great warm ups on the slabs with the steeper pitches of Depiedradores (the groove) and Corner (the arete) obvious above…

Que gusto tomar el sol ahí y recordarse como es escalar…. Incluso el más pequeño de nuestro equipo se animó a escalar un poco…..

Jack gets going...
Jack gets going…

Luego probamos un par de las vías arriba de las placas, más cortas pero bastante más desplomadas. Después de unos meses de no hacer nada como cuestan!!! Pero como molan también…. 

Así que, agotados pero muuuy contentos, bajamos al Refugio del Llano para reponer fuerzas con buena comida y refrescos fríos…… Como nos encanta Quirós!!

 

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, escalada, escalada deportiva, Quiros

Quirós – simply perfect for getting into the groove again..

July 3, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Once again the queen of Asturian climbing doesn’ t disappoint, from the fantastic location – we woke up in Aciera to the view below – to the great weather and as always great routes.

What a view to wake up to...another beautiful July day in Asturias..
What a view to wake up to…another beautiful July day in Asturias..

We have a had  a few months off climbing so we decided to hit Escalón (one of the most popular sectors at Quiros) with a great mix of slabs to warm up on and short testpieces to get the juices flowing. Mary started on one of the easy classics, ‘La Placa Fina’ V, a good call because as the sun rapidly rose and the temperatures as well it seemed that we may not get anything too difficult done…

Great warm ups on the slabs with the steeper pitches obvious above...
Great warm ups on the slabs with the steeper pitches of  obvious above…

However, luckily there was a bit of a breeze and instead of retiring to the pool at Proaza we carried on. I thought it was my turn, and was just getting psyched for Depiedradores 6c+ when Jack, our 4 yr son, decided to get into the act and after a go on the rope decided that a bit of soloing was for him.

Jack gets going...
Jack gets going…

Finally, I managed to get my turn and after a not too convincing warm up on the V sent the fingery and Depiedradores with only a  moderate amount of finger pain!!!
Undeterred Mary went up on a rope and as the breeze died off and the temperatures climbed quicker than we were I willed her to send it quick. She duly despatched it with only a couple of hiccups and I decided that as we were there I’d try and do Corner, 7a, again. By this time it was truly hot and both our son and faithful hound were sheltering beneath whatever shade they could find.

Moving quickly I matched the last hold before taking flight having crossed hands…!! Drat…

Still it was hard to moan as the day was so gorgeous and so pretty happy for first day back we descended to the Refugio below just as others arrived (refugio El Llano) and Jose fed and watered us!!

Unknown climber on the super classic slab of Place Torres 6c, Escalon...
Unknown climber on the super classic slab of Place Torres 6c, Escalon…

 

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, northern Spain, Quiros, rock climbing, Spain, sport climbing

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Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 1052022 Felices Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 1052022 Felices fiestas. Muy buen día en Teverga y casi no hay nadie. Soleado pero con un viento fuerte entonces dentro de la sombra hace frío. Va secando todo pero después de la lluvia hace 5 días hay bastantes tramos mojados, sobre todo las chorreras.
Stunning day but although it's sunny there's a strong wind so it's cold in the shade. Everything is drying off after the rain last week  but still quite a few wet patches, especially the tufas.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #meteo #weather #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias
♥️♥️♥️♥️. @climbatcenters ♥️♥️♥️♥️. @climbatcenters
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 24042021 Despué Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 24042021 Después de la lluvia ayer ha empezado genial hoy, casi sin nubes ni viento. Obviamente habrá muchos sectores que quedan mojadas pero creo que se puede escalar en varios sectores que secan rápido como Entecampos, Placas del Sol, Muro Techo y tal...
After yesterday's rain its started off with blue sky and plenty of sun. Obviously lots of stuff will be wet but there should be a bunch of the quick drying routes in condition.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #meteo #weather @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 15042022 Una sem Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 15042022 Una semana Santa perfecta. Casi todo seco y listo para unos días de escalada buenísimos. Ya hace calor entonces igual una tarde dentro de la sombra puede ser la mejor opción.
Stunning Easter so far and gonna be a great weekend for climbing.
#meteo #weather #asturias #rocaverde #paraisonatural #escalada #escaladaenroca #climbingrocks #climbinglife #sportclimbing #escaladadeportiva @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #klettern #desnivel #escalar #cordilleracantabrica
Meteo /Weather Teverga y Quirós 09042022 Día cas Meteo /Weather Teverga y Quirós 09042022 Día casi perfecto, pero porque llovió bastante anoche hay tramos mojados que necesiten un rato para secar. Pero con la combinación del sol y el viento creo que todo va a secar rápidamente.
Really nice day and good drying conditions after quite a bit of rain last night.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar @casa_quiros
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 08042022 Día de Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 08042022 Día de viento y cielo gris. Como 14 grados o más y con la posibilidad que va a llover. Lo bueno es que el viento va a secar bien las vias que quedan un poco mojado después del deshielo. Pero dan muy bueno el finde entonces merece la pena mucho venir.
Great drying day with strong winds and a good forecast for the weekend. See you on the crags.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion @casa_quiros #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 06042022 Día ma Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 06042022 Día magnífico, y como ayer creo que por la tarde habrá perfecto para la escalada dentro del sol.
Stunning day and like yesterday I reckon it'll perfect for climbing in the sun this afternoon.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #meteo #weather @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias
He llevado los gatos de @tenayaclimbing para mucho He llevado los gatos de @tenayaclimbing para muchos años (son fantásticos) pero cada vez cuando tengo unos nuevos y abro la caja es como la primera vez: con mucha illusion probarlos. Porque para mi no hay un sentido mejor que gatos nuevos aplastando los pies. Escaladores y sus gatos, es un amor muy profundo 😍😍😂😂
I've been wearing Tenaya shoes for years now but everytime I get a new pair and open the box for the first time the feelings  just like that first time a giddy excitement to try them on. Because for me there's no better feeling than brand new shoes squeezing the life out of my feet. Climbers and their shoes, it's a deep, strange live. 
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #climbingrocks #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 05042022 Totalme Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 05042022 Totalmente despejado pero con la resulta que hizo mucho frío anoche y habia una helado bastante fuerte y unas temperaturas muy bajos. Ahora mismo el termómetro dice 0°. Pero hay sitios secos como Entecampos, Entecampos arriba, El rincón, Placas del Sol, Muro Techo y creo que dentro del sol hará bastante calor para permitir la escalada. Y como siempre en Quirós las placas secan y calientan rápidamente. 
Totally clear but very cold. Down to minus 5 last night but I reckon this afternoon in the sun it should be OK for a climb.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing  #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #meteo #weather #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 04042022 Mucho f Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 04042022 Mucho frío, nieve y cielo gris. Un día para entrenar. 
Training day. Cold and grim.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #meteo #weather #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias
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