Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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Casa Quirós – our holiday cottage under the crag

September 10, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

We have just opened Casa Quirós – a picture-book pretty, traditional stone-built Asturian house that has been recently renovated to a high standard.

A great spot for climbers, Casa Quirós is just underneath one of the best crags in Asturias, Quirós, which has nearly 300 sports routes spread over 22 sectors. Teverga, another huge climbing area, with nearly 500 routes, is only 15 minutes drive.

The view from Casa Quirós on a summer morning...
The view from Casa Quirós on a summer morning…

The south facing house sleeps four and is situated in Aciera, a picturesque traditional Asturian village, in the heart of the parque natural de Las Ubiñas-La Mesa. Surrounded by beautiful peaks and passes the area is perfect for all types of outdoor activity including; climbing, road biking, mountain biking, trail running, hiking, fishing and birdwatching

If climbing’s not your thing (or your partner’s) then not to worry because the area has loads more to offer. The road and mountain biking, straight from the house, are both awesome. For littler legs the 45km long, mostly flat, Senda del Oso (bear path – yes, we even have bears!) wends its way along the foot of the valley beneath the village. There’s even kayaking on the reservoir just below the house.

See more about Casa Quirós here…

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Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: aciera, Asturias, climbing, Cordillera Cantabrica, El Llano, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, holiday cottage, holiday rental, Quiros, rental house, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, tourist tips, travel

Quiros – Sector Eclipse new, old and ignored…#1

September 9, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

There are some places I just love to climb and Sector Eclipse at Quiros is one of them. Now I don’t understand why but this is a sector ignored by most and I have  never seen anyone there. However, for me it has a great mix of routes, there’s a decent spread of grades and possibly the best 6c+ in Asturias. (Controversial!!!)

Oh, and one more thing I should mention, it also gets into the shade at around 1.30, a blessing for a keen climber in the summer months. Returning there after a break was a treat for me for a number of reasons; firstly I completed my project, secondly I warmed up on a route which felt pumpy as hell on the last visit and finally I had the same feeling repeating a route as the first time – which is rare.

Amanita, 6c+, a really good route with a bit of everything...and OK at the grade!
Amanita, 6c+, a really good route with a bit of everything…and OK at the grade!

First visit, with the ever patient Den (who seems to get stuck with me in project mode) I warmed up on Amanita 6c+, a really good (and long) route which takes a burly crack for fully 35 metres. Certainly easier the second time there’s big moves, finger jams and intricate slabs and was happy that I felt solid all the way. Reason being I’d returned to finish a route I’d bolted about two years ago.

Called Chorrera Negra I’d tentatively graded it 7a and put it in the guide even though I’d not had time to complete it. I’d had the time after bolting to top rope it and although very tired had just about done it in one go. So feeling good I thought I’d just whip up it quickly and get it ticked.

Pumped in mind body and legs with a long wa y to go!!
Pumped in mind body and legs with a long wa y to go!!

However, I hadn’t counted on the fact that A. I hadn’t cleaned it brilliantly and the intervening 1.5 years would leave it worse. And B. it was pretty badly bolted with spaced bolts meaning you had to do hard moves above them and C. it was bloody hard!!!

Starting up an existing route, El loco de la colina, it zips straight up the wall above the start via a series of pockets, flakes and some very small and indistinct holds to join the belay of Luz de alba (another very good route).  Almost immediately after leaving the start of the first route I was stumped – I’d put the first bolt on my route high to avoid any conflict and instantly it was a nervous clip. Then again after clipping things didn’t get much better as teh crux seemed desperate, above the bolt and with a ‘gripper clipper’ for the next one.

Up, down, up down, I got pumped and more pumped. – feet on nothing much, dirty hand holds and fear keeping me down. Finally I committed and managed to push on – brutal – but a decent crimp got me clipped and a carried on. Phew, crux done! I didn’t remember anything else hard until the last few feet so felt a bit happier. But, I was once again subject to memory failings as almost isntantly the territory became thin, precarious and very, very unobvious. Sketch by sketch I advanced and slowly but surely i was going to be mine. By the end I was totally pumped with cramping feet and it was will power nothing more (and the threat of having to come back) which got me up it.

Very relieved I snagged the belay and lowered off pleased as punch but damn tired.  I was very proud of my route and my determined effort, whilst acknowledging it’s failings and vowing to come back and clean and add a bolt or two to my ordeal.

On the very thin crux of Chorerra Negra now a healthy 7a+
On the very thin crux of Chorerra Negra now a healthy 7a+

So overall, maybe my first new route on the Queen of Asturian crags isn’t the greatest but it’s intricate and fun (in an old school way). I upgraded Chorrera Negra to 7a+, I am going back soon to ‘sort it out’.

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, El Llano, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, new routes, Quiros, roca verde climbing, Sector Eclipse, spanish climbing, sport climbing

Retomando Cuerda en Quirós

July 4, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Ultimamente hemos tenido muy poca oportunidad de escalar…..(igual ya sabéis que andabamos bastante ocupados con lo de publicar una guía?!! 😉 ) Ya era hora de retomar cuerda y no hay mejor sitio para hacerlo que en Quirós.

What a view to wake up to...another beautiful July day in Asturias..
What a view to wake up to…another beautiful July day in Asturias..

Despertarse y ver un día así de guapo, claro que mete ganas de salir al monte. Así que ayer subimos al Escalón para calentar en unas de las vías faciles en las placas.

Great warm ups on the slabs with the steeper pitches of Depiedradores (the groove) and Corner (the arete) obvious above...
Great warm ups on the slabs with the steeper pitches of Depiedradores (the groove) and Corner (the arete) obvious above…

Que gusto tomar el sol ahí y recordarse como es escalar…. Incluso el más pequeño de nuestro equipo se animó a escalar un poco…..

Jack gets going...
Jack gets going…

Luego probamos un par de las vías arriba de las placas, más cortas pero bastante más desplomadas. Después de unos meses de no hacer nada como cuestan!!! Pero como molan también…. 

Así que, agotados pero muuuy contentos, bajamos al Refugio del Llano para reponer fuerzas con buena comida y refrescos fríos…… Como nos encanta Quirós!!

 

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, escalada, escalada deportiva, Quiros

Quirós – simply perfect for getting into the groove again..

July 3, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Once again the queen of Asturian climbing doesn’ t disappoint, from the fantastic location – we woke up in Aciera to the view below – to the great weather and as always great routes.

What a view to wake up to...another beautiful July day in Asturias..
What a view to wake up to…another beautiful July day in Asturias..

We have a had  a few months off climbing so we decided to hit Escalón (one of the most popular sectors at Quiros) with a great mix of slabs to warm up on and short testpieces to get the juices flowing. Mary started on one of the easy classics, ‘La Placa Fina’ V, a good call because as the sun rapidly rose and the temperatures as well it seemed that we may not get anything too difficult done…

Great warm ups on the slabs with the steeper pitches obvious above...
Great warm ups on the slabs with the steeper pitches of  obvious above…

However, luckily there was a bit of a breeze and instead of retiring to the pool at Proaza we carried on. I thought it was my turn, and was just getting psyched for Depiedradores 6c+ when Jack, our 4 yr son, decided to get into the act and after a go on the rope decided that a bit of soloing was for him.

Jack gets going...
Jack gets going…

Finally, I managed to get my turn and after a not too convincing warm up on the V sent the fingery and Depiedradores with only a  moderate amount of finger pain!!!
Undeterred Mary went up on a rope and as the breeze died off and the temperatures climbed quicker than we were I willed her to send it quick. She duly despatched it with only a couple of hiccups and I decided that as we were there I’d try and do Corner, 7a, again. By this time it was truly hot and both our son and faithful hound were sheltering beneath whatever shade they could find.

Moving quickly I matched the last hold before taking flight having crossed hands…!! Drat…

Still it was hard to moan as the day was so gorgeous and so pretty happy for first day back we descended to the Refugio below just as others arrived (refugio El Llano) and Jose fed and watered us!!

Unknown climber on the super classic slab of Place Torres 6c, Escalon...
Unknown climber on the super classic slab of Place Torres 6c, Escalon…

 

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, northern Spain, Quiros, rock climbing, Spain, sport climbing

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rocaverdeclimb

Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 10082022 Despué Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 10082022 Después de unas mañanas de niebla los últimos días han empezado asi despejados pero con bastante calor entonces buscas los sitio más protegidos del sol - Quirós después de los 3 de la tarde o en Teverga sitios como pared negra, el circo, planeta x, surgencia y el río...por las tardes. 
Gonna be a hot one. After a few days of foggy mornings the last couple of days have started clear but hot. Seek out shade: Quirós after 3pm and sectors like  pared negra, el circo, planeta x, surgencia and río in Teverga in the, afternoon.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #meteo #weather #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 25062022 A pesar Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 25062022 A pesar de la lluvia anoche me parece que Quirós esta menos afectada que Teverga: aún hay bastantes cosas secas en Teverga hay más tramos de chorreras y tal mojadas. En general muy buen día sin un calor exagerado.
Overall not a bad day and despite last night's rain Quirós is looking pretty sweet although Teverga has suffered a bit more especially the tufas. Decent cragging day.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion @casa_quiros #klettern #desnivel #escalar #quiros
Buenas noticias. Hace unos meses he colaborado con Buenas noticias. Hace unos meses he colaborado con los equipadores de Pechón, un acantilado maraviloso en Cantabria en el rio de Tino menor. La escuela es muy popular porque no solo son viás fantasticas en un entorno magnifico pero porque tambien tiene sombra y puede ser fresco por las tarde 😜 Pero porque esta al lado de mar pensamos que sera mejor poner tensores quimicos que aguantaran mucho mas tiempo. Entonces compramos tensores quimicos tipo marino de alta calidad con dinero del fondo de chapas de Roca Verde. Y las buenas noticias son que en los ultimas semana has terminado casi todo el trabajo para dejat la escuela esta mas seguro que nunca. Y los protaganistas del trabajo eran el indefatigable Jose Garrido, el dueno de la tienda de montana K2 Aventura en Torrelavega http://www.kadosaventura.com/ que ha abierto bastante pepinos allí y Sergio Torio  https://altiusaventura.com/ la guia de montana quien ha abierto muchas vias por la zona. 
Entonces mil gracias a ellos y si necesitas material de escalada o una guia de montaña piensas en ellos que apoyan la escalada (sin beneficios) en tu region y dar el trabajo a ellos… Y tambien, si compras Roca Verde puedes estar seguro de que una parte de tu dinero se destinará a proporcionar material para aquellas personas que hacen el trabajo duro agregando nuevas líneas en las regiones.
Great news, After a sustained perio of work by two of the most industrious locals Sergio Torio and José Garrido and a bunch of A4, marine special, chemical bolts provided by Roca Verde the sea cliff of Pechón has been overhauled to make it safer for longer and make sure that as a sea cliff it’s in the best condition possible. Remember when you buy Roca Verde some of that money always goes to re’equiping and working with the locals.
Photo: Benjamin Ruiz en Marinero Smith, 7a Foto: José Garrido @k2aventuratorrelavega 
#rockclimbing #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain
Acabamos de lanzar Roca Verde 3A con el patrocinad Acabamos de lanzar Roca Verde 3A con el patrocinador del libro, una tienda de montaña de referencia en Asturias @ludoaventura Hace casi 8 años cuando empecé de comprar material para compartir, José, el jefe, era la primera persona que me ayudó y sé que ha ayudado otros con material y apoyo durante muchos años – un buen ejemplo de como una tienda puede formar parte integral de la comunidad. Si no conoces la tienda merece la pena mucho una visita para recibir un asesoramiento experto de gente que conoce bien las montañas, el esquí y la escalada. 
Roca Verde 3A es la nueva versión de Roca Verde 3 que se publicó en 2021. Debido a la gran demanda, Roca Verde 3 casi se agotó en poco más de un año, por lo que Roca Verde 3A es una versión reimpresa, pero con algunas pequeñas actualizaciones y correcciones de algunos errores que aparecían (la mayoría ya corregidos con pegatinas) en Roca Verde 3. Por lo que es importante señalar que si tienes Roca Verde 3 no hace falta comprar Roca Verde 3A ya que la mayoría de las actualizaciones son menores y solo contiene dos nuevos códigos QR para  descargar un par de sectores ya publicados en la página web. 
Una vez más gracias a José y sus compañeros y, a todos vosotros, Nos vemos en las escuelas. ¡A muerte!
#climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 19062022 Despué Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 19062022 Después de una noche de tormentas fuertes y lluvia el día ha empezado mucho más fresco - ahora mismo solo 22 grados - entonces si aguanta así debe ser más on menos perfecto para la escalada aún que habrá unas cosas mojadas.
Very stormy night but fresh today and only 22° so if it carries on like this should be a good climbing day.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion @casa_quiros #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós Calor, kalima y Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós Calor, kalima y chubascos. Dia super raro entonces no se que va a pasar. Había una tormenta gigante anoche pero hoy por la mañana pensé que ha pasado el malo pero de repente goteando y vientos fuertes. Igual va a pasar pronto y se puede escalar sin problema. De todos modos bochorno.
Really odd day, after a really big storm last night I thought it was OK thus morning but suddenly its rainy with high winds. So it could be OK or could storm again. ☔🤔😂 In any case hit and sweaty...
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #meteo #weather #asturias #spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion
Próximamente, el evento más importante del año Próximamente, el evento más importante del año y muy recomendable: un finde para escalar, beber y bailar en Teverga. Pero el orden de los actividades será una decision tuya 😆
Muchas gracias al  Grupo de Escalada Aguja de Sobia @grupoagujasobia no solo para este evento pero todo el trabajo que hacen en el concejo para mejorar la escalada. Y merece la pena mucho recordar que si te haces socio del club casi todo el dinero va a comprar material y tal para abrir vias nuevas o requipar. Y gracias a todos lo colaboradores porque sin ellos no habria premios del sorteo tan chulos...😉😉
Coming up soon,  the return of the brilliant Encuentro de Escalada in Teverga, Asturias. This is fantasic weekend to climb, drink and dance the night away - and not necessarily in that order!!! Thanks to the Grupo de Escalado Aguja de Sobia for their work as ever not only for the encuentro but their work making Teverga one of the best climbing areas in Spain. And thanks to all the people who've colaborated with the event to make it an amazing evening.
@casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde @turismoasturias @teverga_paraiso #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 13062022 Sigue l Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 13062022 Sigue la ola de calor...🙄😜😂 Pero en serio otro día de nubes bajas y niebla y ahora mismo 23° pero tampoco ya parece demasiado bochorno. Todavía hay bastante cosas secas y solo las chorreras quedan mojadas. Me parece que las nubes van a aguantar todo el día. En general muy buen día para escalar.
Another day of the Spanish heatwave 🙄🤣😂 but seriously overall a pretty good climbing day as its not too hot and the clouds/fog haven't lifted for the third day on the bounce. Not wet though and the crags are mainly dry apart from the tufas. #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar #apartamentorocaverde
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 260522 Sol y pá Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 260522 Sol y pájaros cantando quién pueden pedir más. Muy buen día después de un par de dias regulares pero casi todo seco a pesar de la lluvia. Stunner of a day after a couple of shitty days. #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 1052022 Felices Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 1052022 Felices fiestas. Muy buen día en Teverga y casi no hay nadie. Soleado pero con un viento fuerte entonces dentro de la sombra hace frío. Va secando todo pero después de la lluvia hace 5 días hay bastantes tramos mojados, sobre todo las chorreras.
Stunning day but although it's sunny there's a strong wind so it's cold in the shade. Everything is drying off after the rain last week  but still quite a few wet patches, especially the tufas.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #meteo #weather #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias
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