Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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You are here: Home / Climbing / Quiros – Sector Eclipse new, old and ignored…#1

Quiros – Sector Eclipse new, old and ignored…#1

September 9, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

There are some places I just love to climb and Sector Eclipse at Quiros is one of them. Now I don’t understand why but this is a sector ignored by most and I have  never seen anyone there. However, for me it has a great mix of routes, there’s a decent spread of grades and possibly the best 6c+ in Asturias. (Controversial!!!)

Oh, and one more thing I should mention, it also gets into the shade at around 1.30, a blessing for a keen climber in the summer months. Returning there after a break was a treat for me for a number of reasons; firstly I completed my project, secondly I warmed up on a route which felt pumpy as hell on the last visit and finally I had the same feeling repeating a route as the first time – which is rare.

Amanita, 6c+, a really good route with a bit of everything...and OK at the grade!
Amanita, 6c+, a really good route with a bit of everything…and OK at the grade!

First visit, with the ever patient Den (who seems to get stuck with me in project mode) I warmed up on Amanita 6c+, a really good (and long) route which takes a burly crack for fully 35 metres. Certainly easier the second time there’s big moves, finger jams and intricate slabs and was happy that I felt solid all the way. Reason being I’d returned to finish a route I’d bolted about two years ago.

Called Chorrera Negra I’d tentatively graded it 7a and put it in the guide even though I’d not had time to complete it. I’d had the time after bolting to top rope it and although very tired had just about done it in one go. So feeling good I thought I’d just whip up it quickly and get it ticked.

Pumped in mind body and legs with a long wa y to go!!
Pumped in mind body and legs with a long wa y to go!!

However, I hadn’t counted on the fact that A. I hadn’t cleaned it brilliantly and the intervening 1.5 years would leave it worse. And B. it was pretty badly bolted with spaced bolts meaning you had to do hard moves above them and C. it was bloody hard!!!

Starting up an existing route, El loco de la colina, it zips straight up the wall above the start via a series of pockets, flakes and some very small and indistinct holds to join the belay of Luz de alba (another very good route).  Almost immediately after leaving the start of the first route I was stumped – I’d put the first bolt on my route high to avoid any conflict and instantly it was a nervous clip. Then again after clipping things didn’t get much better as teh crux seemed desperate, above the bolt and with a ‘gripper clipper’ for the next one.

Up, down, up down, I got pumped and more pumped. – feet on nothing much, dirty hand holds and fear keeping me down. Finally I committed and managed to push on – brutal – but a decent crimp got me clipped and a carried on. Phew, crux done! I didn’t remember anything else hard until the last few feet so felt a bit happier. But, I was once again subject to memory failings as almost isntantly the territory became thin, precarious and very, very unobvious. Sketch by sketch I advanced and slowly but surely i was going to be mine. By the end I was totally pumped with cramping feet and it was will power nothing more (and the threat of having to come back) which got me up it.

Very relieved I snagged the belay and lowered off pleased as punch but damn tired.  I was very proud of my route and my determined effort, whilst acknowledging it’s failings and vowing to come back and clean and add a bolt or two to my ordeal.

On the very thin crux of Chorerra Negra now a healthy 7a+
On the very thin crux of Chorerra Negra now a healthy 7a+

So overall, maybe my first new route on the Queen of Asturian crags isn’t the greatest but it’s intricate and fun (in an old school way). I upgraded Chorrera Negra to 7a+, I am going back soon to ‘sort it out’.

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, El Llano, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, new routes, Quiros, roca verde climbing, Sector Eclipse, spanish climbing, sport climbing

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Que guay sale la vía, otro joya de @cesargarciaca Que guay sale la vía, otro joya de @cesargarciacarballido Vecino Clandestino...estamos esperando el grado!!
Another great looking route thanks to César, waiting for a redpoint and a grade.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #klettern #desnivel #escalar @roca_verde_rentals
Tenemos que aplauder @cesargarciacarballido y su n Tenemos que aplauder @cesargarciacarballido y su niño por su trabajo en abrir unas vías chulisimas en el sector de Cueva del mar, Proaza. Yo no podía ayudarle limpiar pero le paso material del fondo de chapas de Roca Verde: como chapas, parabolts y reuniones para ayudarle así. No es igual que trabajar en la pared limpiando maleza pero igual le ayuda algo 🤣🤣 Merece la pena irse allí y siguen abriendo vías entonces si  sigues su Insta tendrás todas las actualizaciones.
Got to give a big thanks to César and his son Oscar for his amazing work in adding a bunch of new route to the big slabs below the old sector of Cueva del mar in Proaza. 💪💪 I didn't have the time to help him clean being a lazy bastard but at least I can help by donating material from the bolt fund I set up with Roca Verde.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #viasnuevas #gracias @roca_verde_rentals #klettern #desnivel #escalar #caluza
Pues muy buen día en Bóvedas con @galiares6a pil Pues muy buen día en Bóvedas con @galiares6a pillando a @asturiandiary mientras hizo su vía El patán, 6b+/c un clásico de Teverga y tampoco fácil con sus 35m de escalada fina. Lo encadenó en su siguiente pegue, enhorabuena chica 💗
Lovely day in Bóvedas watching Mary do El patán, a 35m 6b+/c classic of Teverga while being belayed  by the first ascentionist Gali. Nice job babe. 💗
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #mountains #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias @tenayaclimbing
Meteo /Weather Teverga y Quirós 06032023 Muy buen Meteo /Weather Teverga y Quirós 06032023 Muy buen día otra vez. Ahora mismo 12° y soleado pero tampoco tan calentito que ayer. Todo va secando pero las chorreras quedan mojadas.
Another beauty, sunny dry and not too hot. Drying nicely but the tufas are mainly wet still.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar @roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 03032023 Muy bue Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 03032023 Muy buen día mucho sol y todo va secando. Estuvimos en el rincón y casi no había una presa mojada!! Unos de los otros sectores se puede ver en las fotos siguientes: Entecampos, Cabras Alpinas, El rincón...y tampoco parecen mojados. 📷 David Rothstein en Sarah, 6c. 
Stunning day lots of sun's and some nice routes at El rincón. Everything is drying off nicely as you can see by the fotos of some of the other sectors I've uploaded.
@roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde #rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain @teverga_paraiso
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 02032023 Despué Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 02032023 Después de un par de días sosos hoy es una días espectacular. La pena es que porque los últimos días eran malos tampoco hay in montón de sitios secas. Igual en las placas de Quirós o en Muro Techo / Entecampos / Rincón sería cositas. Pero por lo menos con el sol así va secando. No hay viento y hace solo 6° dentro de la sombra. 
Stunner of a day but because the last few have been grim there's not too much dry. The slabs at Quirós may dry, but remember there's only sun until three then in Teverga there's Muro Techo, Entecampos and El rincón that should have stuff. No wind and only 6 degrees in the shade.
Remember our apartment in Teverga is in the heart of this beautiful scenery.
@roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde #rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Me pareció mucho más que dos años y medio cuand Me pareció mucho más que dos años y medio cuando el ganador del oro olímpico Alberto Gines López @albertogines estuvo en Teverga. En julio de 2020 fuimos un día para que el pudiera probar Clandestino, el único 9a de Teverga. Antes de probarlo hizo Alien, 7c+, a vista pero Clandestino estaba mojada abajo y al final casi no podía hacer nada. Buen recuerdos y como siempre cuando veas alguien haciendo tu deporte con tanto técnica con tan pocos años es un experiencia fantástica. Luego para verlo el año después en los olímpicos retrasado era inolvidable y estoy esperando a París 2024 para ver si el puede repitirlo. 💪💪
It seems like much more than two and a half years that Alberto Gines López was in Teverga. In July of 2020 just after the lockdown ended we went to the only 9a on Teverga, Clandestino but the start was wet and in the end he could barely try it. However it wasn't a wash out as he did a couple of other routes I managed to get some nice photos and spend another day with a future Olympic champion. It was amazing the year after seeing him win gold at the delayed Tokyo games and it'll be great to see if he can defend it in Paris.
If you fancy checking Teverga outr apartment is taking bookings..

#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar @woguclimbing #apartamentorocaverde #rocaverdeapartment @roca_verde_rentals
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 28022023 Último Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 28022023 Último día de febrero y es un día de invierno puro. Igual para los supervalientes con proyectos merece la pena ir a Muro Techo o algún sitio así protegido pero yo voy a hacer la yoga en casa e irme al tablón. 😉😉 Dicen que hoy debe ser el peor día entonces igual mañana salimos a la roca. Pero por lo menos las estaciones te darán bienvenidos si no se puede escalar ⛷️😂
Last day of February and it's a proper winter day. Cold grey and a bit snowy. 7° at the moment. There'll be some stuff dry for the keenest amongst you but I'm off to the board. Worst case the ski stations will be very keen to see you!!
#climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #sportclimbing #spain #apartamentorocaverde #rocaverdeapartment @roca_verde_rentals
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 18022023 Sé que Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 18022023 Sé que la foto parece iqual de ayer pero es porque el tiempo es igual. Otro día buenísimo.
I know the foto looks the same as yesterday but the weather basically is the same: perfect.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar @roca_verde_rentals
Sitio de hoy: Cabañes, Desfiladero de la Hermida. Sitio de hoy: Cabañes, Desfiladero de la Hermida. Si no has estado allí este muro tiene vías buenas en un lugar estupendo. Hay varios sectores pero lo más visitado es Pelea donde hay sol hasta las 4 de la tarde en invierno o sombra después de las 4 en verano. Entonces con los días soleados invernales a pesar de su altitud debe ser muy buen sitio. Hay unas vías maravillosas y una selección guapa para los que escalan sobre 6b/c como las vias en las fotos. Foto 1 Wences Rodríguez en vía 12, 6a+, que termina con unos pasos duros para subir una panza pequeña. Foto 2 Barbara Pena @babaidem en vía 17 6b, en que lo más duro consiste de un pequeño tramo de chorrera  con pasos exigentes.
Todas las vias y sectores aparece en el libro del Desfiladero disponible a través de mi página web.
A great spot for these sunny, winter day would be Sector Pelea at the crag of Cabañes in the, La Hermida valley. This crag, though high up has sun until 4pm and is in a stunning location in the shadow of the Picos. It's a great spot for those who climb up to 6b/c and the two routes in the fotos, routes 12 and 17 are both good examples of this. One a 6a+ tricky wall with a difficult bulge to finish and another 6b, with a hard tufa section.
#rockclimbing #lahermida #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #klettern #desnivel #escalar #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram @tenayaclimbing #climbtheworld @beta_climbing
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