Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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You are here: Home / Archives for new routes

New Topo for Mergullo, Asturias

January 13, 2019 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Here’s a crag that I couldn’t squeeze into Roca Verde 2. It appeared in the first edition but as it’s a bit of a ´locals´venue I didn’t have the space in the expanded version.

Mergullo is a small venue that overlooks the ‘Senda Verde’ just outside Oviedo. It’s probably the closest crag to Oviedo and can be accessed on bike or by walking. However, it’s not the most popular venue and although there are some decent routes, the lack of traffic, the crag’s orientation and the two massive quarries nearby mean that the routes are quite dusty, making them difficult to enjoy. The climbing is hard and fingery and there aren’t any easy routes TBH…but the routes are good they just need a clean.

Remember you can buy the full Roca Verde edition 2 here: Buy Roca Verde 2

Mergullo PDF

 

 

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Filed Under: Climbing, climbing guide book, New routes, New Topos Tagged With: Asturias, climbing, climbing northern spain, new routes, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias

Manzaneda Arnea actualizado – Manzaneda Arnea Reequipped 10012019

January 11, 2019 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Hola! Informamos de la restauración parcial del sector Arnea en la Manzaneda. Solo se restauraron las vías que lo necesitaban, en su totalidad las vías 1, 2, 6, 12, 15, 22 y de manera parcial la 4, 16, 18, 19, 20 y 21. Además se sustituyeron 4 descuelgues. A día de hoy quedan un par de chapas viejas `por quitar que en breve ya no estarán.
Si os queréis hacer socios de Asturvertical y colaborar en este tipo de acciones solo tenéis que escribir al correo asturvertical1992@gmail.com e ingresar 10€ en el número de cuenta que se os facilitará.Para finalizar, pues agradecer a la FEMPA, al AYTO. de Oviedo, a la tienda Ludoaventura y a todos y cada uno de los socios de Asturvertical por hacer posible estos trabajos.
Cómo no, en este sector en particular hay que agradecer a Juan López Mesa que fue sin duda el motor de esta obra.

Great news from Club Astur Vertical is that they’ve re-equipped a lot of the routes at the very good sector of Arnea, at the crag of Manzaneda. Thanks a lot to all of the people who took part and thanks to Club Astur Vertical for their strong work. Thanks alos to the outdoor shop Ludo Aventura in Gijon and to Fempa for their gear to help.

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Filed Under: Climbing, climbing guide book, Croquis, Escalada, escalada deportiva, guía, New Topos, Vias nuevas Tagged With: Asturias, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, croquis nuevos, escalada, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, Manzaneda, new routes, new topos, vias nuevas, |Arnea

Teverga new routes #2

January 8, 2019 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Happy new year everyone. As it’s now 2019 it would seem to be a good time to round up what’s been happening in 2018 and maybe a good place to start is the ever busy valley of Teverga. There’s plenty of new routes so I’m going to put them up in three posts…and the next sectors are also sectors that was mainly finished in 2017; La Falda and La Galeria.

The new sectors..

These sectors in reality are an extension of Muro Techo – if you keep walking past the existing routes you will get to them in a minute more. La falda (the skirt) is the huge slab while Sector La galeria is the section of tough tufas which overhang the slab below. The routes in general are all quite intricate climbing and with a good spread of grades it’s a great place for a mixed ability group – it’s also worth noting that a 70m rope is needed for nearly all of these as they’re longer than they look. The routes in ‘the gallery’, La galleria, which start from the ‘salathe’ ledge are almost the exact opposite; short steep and generally quite brutal. They also put a bit of fear into the proceedings as, starting at 35 metres, the cruxes are at about 50 metres off the ground!!

En la repisa ‘Salathe’ abajo de las vías de La Galeria…on the ‘salathe’ ledge…

Like always these new routes are never the work of a single person and so it’s easier to thank everyone who is usually involved in new routing in Teverga so thanks go to Lolo, Miguelín, Berto, Hectorín, Moss, Mulero, Gali, Raúl, Josete, Jose Camino, Armando, Cesar, Junior, Pablo Martín, Tino, Javi López, Mariluz, Pablo, Diego, Dani, Anselmo, Richie, Javi Garzo, Brillan, Espolita and anyone else who’s helped!! And remember if you do come to Teverga that all these routes are made possible by the work of the local climbing club so if you do stay in the parking area it’s worth remembering that you can make a donation at the club hut to help with bolts and bolting!!

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Filed Under: Climbing, climbing guide book, Vias nuevas Tagged With: Asturias, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, guide book, new routes, northern Spain, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga

Descargar la mapa nueva de las regiones ‘Roca Verde’…

May 1, 2016 by Roca Verde Climbing 1 Comment

Mejorado, más facile leer y entender,  la nueva mapa de Roca Verde tiene todos los sitios que aparecen en la guía nueva.

Hay 6 nuevas escuelas que no habían sido publicadas hasta ahora en ninguna guía, un par que se nos olvidaron en la primera edición, así como muchos sectores nuevos añadidos a las escuelas existentes. En total, más de 500 vías nuevas.

New Asturias Map

Y recuerdas que puedes comprar el libro ahora aquí…

Comprar Roca Verde edición 2…

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, Cantabria, casa quiros, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, croquis de escalada Asturias, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada en la Cordillera Cantábrica, escalada roca verde, new routes, new sectors, roca verde climbing, roca verde edición 2, Roca Verde edition 2, rock climbing, spanish climbing, spanish climbing topos, sport climbing, Teverga, topos of spain, tufa climbing

Quiros – Sector Eclipse new, old and ignored…#1

September 9, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

There are some places I just love to climb and Sector Eclipse at Quiros is one of them. Now I don’t understand why but this is a sector ignored by most and I have  never seen anyone there. However, for me it has a great mix of routes, there’s a decent spread of grades and possibly the best 6c+ in Asturias. (Controversial!!!)

Oh, and one more thing I should mention, it also gets into the shade at around 1.30, a blessing for a keen climber in the summer months. Returning there after a break was a treat for me for a number of reasons; firstly I completed my project, secondly I warmed up on a route which felt pumpy as hell on the last visit and finally I had the same feeling repeating a route as the first time – which is rare.

Amanita, 6c+, a really good route with a bit of everything...and OK at the grade!
Amanita, 6c+, a really good route with a bit of everything…and OK at the grade!

First visit, with the ever patient Den (who seems to get stuck with me in project mode) I warmed up on Amanita 6c+, a really good (and long) route which takes a burly crack for fully 35 metres. Certainly easier the second time there’s big moves, finger jams and intricate slabs and was happy that I felt solid all the way. Reason being I’d returned to finish a route I’d bolted about two years ago.

Called Chorrera Negra I’d tentatively graded it 7a and put it in the guide even though I’d not had time to complete it. I’d had the time after bolting to top rope it and although very tired had just about done it in one go. So feeling good I thought I’d just whip up it quickly and get it ticked.

Pumped in mind body and legs with a long wa y to go!!
Pumped in mind body and legs with a long wa y to go!!

However, I hadn’t counted on the fact that A. I hadn’t cleaned it brilliantly and the intervening 1.5 years would leave it worse. And B. it was pretty badly bolted with spaced bolts meaning you had to do hard moves above them and C. it was bloody hard!!!

Starting up an existing route, El loco de la colina, it zips straight up the wall above the start via a series of pockets, flakes and some very small and indistinct holds to join the belay of Luz de alba (another very good route).  Almost immediately after leaving the start of the first route I was stumped – I’d put the first bolt on my route high to avoid any conflict and instantly it was a nervous clip. Then again after clipping things didn’t get much better as teh crux seemed desperate, above the bolt and with a ‘gripper clipper’ for the next one.

Up, down, up down, I got pumped and more pumped. – feet on nothing much, dirty hand holds and fear keeping me down. Finally I committed and managed to push on – brutal – but a decent crimp got me clipped and a carried on. Phew, crux done! I didn’t remember anything else hard until the last few feet so felt a bit happier. But, I was once again subject to memory failings as almost isntantly the territory became thin, precarious and very, very unobvious. Sketch by sketch I advanced and slowly but surely i was going to be mine. By the end I was totally pumped with cramping feet and it was will power nothing more (and the threat of having to come back) which got me up it.

Very relieved I snagged the belay and lowered off pleased as punch but damn tired.  I was very proud of my route and my determined effort, whilst acknowledging it’s failings and vowing to come back and clean and add a bolt or two to my ordeal.

On the very thin crux of Chorerra Negra now a healthy 7a+
On the very thin crux of Chorerra Negra now a healthy 7a+

So overall, maybe my first new route on the Queen of Asturian crags isn’t the greatest but it’s intricate and fun (in an old school way). I upgraded Chorrera Negra to 7a+, I am going back soon to ‘sort it out’.

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, El Llano, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, new routes, Quiros, roca verde climbing, Sector Eclipse, spanish climbing, sport climbing

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rocaverdeclimb

Nunca me cansan las vias de Bóvedas, Teverga porq Nunca me cansan las vias de Bóvedas, Teverga porque siempre algo para aprender o un amigo para enseñar una escalada preciosa de chorreras y líneas brutales.
Never get tired of the routes at Bóvedas, Teverga because the climbing is so good and there's always someone new to show the off to. Mick on the first pitch of Quién tiene la broca se equivoca, 6b+.
@roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #spain #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion
Hay que sacar el calendario para recordar unos eve Hay que sacar el calendario para recordar unos eventos próximos y apuntarse pronto. Primero tienes el 4° Encuentro de la muyereda que empieza en Morcin, día 22 de Septiembre con unas charlas chulas y luego, con la inspiración a tope, la semana después hay el segundo maratón de escalada en Pelugano. Sigues @lamuyerada y @maraton_escalada_pelugano para más información. Y estoy muy contento apoyar ambos eventos con unos libros.
#rockclimbing #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #escaladaenroca #montanas #morcin #pelugano #lamuyerada #maraton
Después de unas semanas parado por el tema de un Después de unas semanas parado por el tema de un dedo tocado volvemos para retomarla cuerda con unos amigos en Muro Techo. Y a pesar de la lluvia todo seco y como siempre mejor con unas nubes. 😉
After a few weeks off with a bad finger it's nice to get out again at Muro Techo with a few mates.
📸 Simon Webster on Fisioterapia, 7a.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #klettern #desnivel #escalar @roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde
Cuando llegó la segunda edición de mi guía del Cuando llegó la segunda edición de mi guía del Desfiladero de la Hermida durante de la pandemia...
The second edition of my guide arrived during the pandemic...
#asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain #cantabria
Padre y hijo en la misma vía...uno con éxito el Padre y hijo en la misma vía...uno con éxito el otro no ¿puedes adivinar quien llego a la cadena? . Dos ángulos de una día típica de Pingalagua, Teverga, Paquito el vacilón, 7c+, pasos exigentes entre presas malas 🤣🤣
Dad and son on the same route, one succeeds the other doesn't, can you guess which? A typically brutal route from the sector Pingalagua in Teverga, Paquito el vacilón, 7c+, is a series of hard snatches between poor holds. 👍👍
@ibbertsonjosh 
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #paraisonatural @roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde
Josh Ibbertson @ibbertsonjosh probando El replican Josh Ibbertson @ibbertsonjosh probando El replicante, Pingalagua, Teverga.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #paraisonatural @roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde #sportclimbing
Probando el Dron #4k #mavic #mini3pro Probando el Dron #4k #mavic #mini3pro
La Bocandia, un sitio un poco olvidado pero una ve La Bocandia, un sitio un poco olvidado pero una vez vuelves es obvio que es un sitio con mucho calidad y un montón de vias chulisimas. Muchas gracias a Diego, @diegonaranjorivas y Pablo @cervezaasgaya por su trabajo tremendo en abrir el sector. Un sector que merece la pena especialmente si escalas en los séptimos, entre 7a y 7c. Sombra después de las tres. 
📸 David Rothstein en Yernes 13, 6b...
La Bocandia, a bit forgotten but we'll worth a visit with a ton of great routes across the grades especially if you're climbing in the mid 7s. Shade after 3pm too. 
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #rocaverde3A #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde @roca_verde_rentals
Hace un par de días en Sector Río, con condició Hace un par de días en Sector Río, con condiciónes perfectas, German @yasiesovuelvo encadenando Río bravo, 7c, sin problemas mientras lo grabó todo (con un teléfono 😱) Andrelo Hoc @andrelo.hoc En el video Germán hace la parte de arriba, (pillado por Cote @coteailva14) lo más dura de esta excelente vía: entonces si quieres hacerla a vista mejor que no mires el video 😉😉
Un placer conocer estos chavales tan motivados y muchas gracias por compartir el video. Espero que nos vemos pronto. 💪💪
Y si alguien quiere saber el teléfono es un Pixel 7 pro... 
(para ti @chileniia 😘)
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