Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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You are here: Home / Climbing / James Pearson Guest Blog – Roca Verde Road Trip – Day 3 , 4 + 5 Valles de Trubia

James Pearson Guest Blog – Roca Verde Road Trip – Day 3 , 4 + 5 Valles de Trubia

January 26, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

“Sometimes our trips are meticulously planned and sometimes they just happen, often at the whim of others. Our Roca Verde road trip was the latter. Touching down at night in late October to Santander after a week of work in England we were looking forward to a climbing break – but we hadn’t a clue what to expect – all we knew was that we had seven days guided round the region.  

Our good friend Richie Patterson, the author of the first English language guide to a block of north-west Spain he’d christened Roca Verde, had invited us; but we didn’t really know where we were going or what the area encompassed. We’d actually not climbed in Spain for a while as we are always looking to go a little ‘off-piste’ and the crowds and polish of the major destinations, however good the climbing, don’t really appeal. So when Richie promised unpolished rock, empty crags and plenty of great routes to go at – we were intrigued enough to give it a go!”

­­­Day 3 – El Covachón – Teverga – Central Asturias

We woke up in the quaint, forgotten village of Aciera below Quirós, and enjoyed a slow Spanish style breakfast and coffee on the terrace of Richie’s guest house (www.casaquiros.co.uk), we flicked through the guide book. We decided on Teverga, perhaps the largest separate area, home to more than 25 sectors and nearly 500 routes of every style.  Richie suggested the super steep cave of El Covachon, as a good friend of his would be there, trying his project.

If the cave looks steep in the guide, it’s nothing to how it looks in real life!  The lip of the roof is actually lower than the apex of the cave, meaning you are actually climbing downwards for the last few meters.  As seems to be the norm in this place, a beautiful view down the valley and onto the town is reward for anyone brave enough to come climbing here.  El Covachón is one of the more hard core venues in the guide, with routes only beginning at 7a+, but if you’re climbing these grades is well worth a visit.

 

Day 4 – Quirós – Central Asturias

It wasn’t by chance that Richie’s guesthouse was located in Quirós.  The hills around the village are covered in rock, and we soon discovered that Quirós was the first ‘big’ crag of Asturias and has been climbed on since the 60’s!  The majority of routes are off-vertical long wall climbs, fitting to the climbing style of the time.  Even the eccentric Brit John Redhead made his mark by establishing Placa John, the first 7a of the region; but it wasn’t until 1987 that Fran Blanco moved away from the slabs to take on one a short steep roof, giving Asturias its first 8a in the form of Rompedor. Always psyched to add a bit of history to the agenda we headed up to check it out.  The crags of Quirós are only a short distance from the village, and walking up from the house the beauty of the area and the attractiveness of the situation was continually evident. Overlooking a lake and at the bottom of an amazingly verdant valley Quirós is now considered an everyman crag, with over 300 routes, most of which are below 7a.

 

Rompedor was a great little climb, and nothing at all like what we had expected.  A boulder problem in the sky would be the best way to describe it, not at all like the other harder routes we had climbed in the region.  Its easy to understand why, as at the time of tiptoeing up vertical walls, people really didn’t know if roofs like this were even possible.  It’s logical to start with a small challenge, a few moves of overhanging terrain to test the water, and slowly move on from there.  As much as these routes can seem strange to us in an age of 50m long overhanging pump-fests, we should not forget that they were in fact the beginning of it all.

Having said all that, Quirós is really best for its stunning wall climbs.  La Amarilla is one of the better known sectors, with top quality, 35m long slabs on immaculate white and blue rock. Que la fuerza te accompañe 7b, and Cada loco con su tema, 6c,7a are worth a particular mention, and really showcase what climbing in Quirós is all about.

Day 5 – More Bóvedas – Teverga …!!

Teverga was just too good to spend only one day, so on day 5 of our trip, both skin and muscles sore, but psyche incredibly high, We found ourselves under just another tufa filled cave, and just another selection of incredible 5* routes.  Bóvedas, in two parts is literally the central part of the Teverga massif, and is a jam packed collection of great looking sectors: Bóvedas, Pared Negra, El Canal, Pingalagua are all as good as each other, yet cover a huge variety in climbing styles.  From 3 bolt 8bs to 40 metre 6bs, and crimpy off vertical walls, to pumpy overhanging tufas, La Cueva ticks all the boxes.

James on Dragon de Comorr, 7b+(7c) Bovedas.

We chose La Cueva, which was home to a bunch of the best mid grade 6’s I have ever climbed.  From the belay of these routes, it is possible to continue up through the roof and steep wall above, where things suddenly get a lot more serious! Dragón de Comorr, is a 7b+ extension to an already amazing 6c, that follows a single, eye-catching tufa all the way to a technical and balancy finish on the slab way above.  An amazing route, and perhaps a little tough for the grade… after all, it was the only route I fell off all week!

You can check out James and Caro’s adventures in northern Spain in a short series of movies they made about the place: their Roca Verde Road Trip.
They’re all on Epic TV so here’s some links
Part 1 – https://youtu.be/n5bil2d1Br4
Part 2 – https://youtu.be/yq37n0zej9A
Part 3 – https://youtu.be/HQ6RheBVFog

 

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Filed Under: Climbing, escalada deportiva, sports climbing Tagged With: Asturias, Caroline Ciavaldini, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, james pearson, northern Spain, Quiros, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing

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Que guay sale la vía, otro joya de @cesargarciaca Que guay sale la vía, otro joya de @cesargarciacarballido Vecino Clandestino...estamos esperando el grado!!
Another great looking route thanks to César, waiting for a redpoint and a grade.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #klettern #desnivel #escalar @roca_verde_rentals
Tenemos que aplauder @cesargarciacarballido y su n Tenemos que aplauder @cesargarciacarballido y su niño por su trabajo en abrir unas vías chulisimas en el sector de Cueva del mar, Proaza. Yo no podía ayudarle limpiar pero le paso material del fondo de chapas de Roca Verde: como chapas, parabolts y reuniones para ayudarle así. No es igual que trabajar en la pared limpiando maleza pero igual le ayuda algo 🤣🤣 Merece la pena irse allí y siguen abriendo vías entonces si  sigues su Insta tendrás todas las actualizaciones.
Got to give a big thanks to César and his son Oscar for his amazing work in adding a bunch of new route to the big slabs below the old sector of Cueva del mar in Proaza. 💪💪 I didn't have the time to help him clean being a lazy bastard but at least I can help by donating material from the bolt fund I set up with Roca Verde.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #viasnuevas #gracias @roca_verde_rentals #klettern #desnivel #escalar #caluza
Pues muy buen día en Bóvedas con @galiares6a pil Pues muy buen día en Bóvedas con @galiares6a pillando a @asturiandiary mientras hizo su vía El patán, 6b+/c un clásico de Teverga y tampoco fácil con sus 35m de escalada fina. Lo encadenó en su siguiente pegue, enhorabuena chica 💗
Lovely day in Bóvedas watching Mary do El patán, a 35m 6b+/c classic of Teverga while being belayed  by the first ascentionist Gali. Nice job babe. 💗
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #mountains #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias @tenayaclimbing
Meteo /Weather Teverga y Quirós 06032023 Muy buen Meteo /Weather Teverga y Quirós 06032023 Muy buen día otra vez. Ahora mismo 12° y soleado pero tampoco tan calentito que ayer. Todo va secando pero las chorreras quedan mojadas.
Another beauty, sunny dry and not too hot. Drying nicely but the tufas are mainly wet still.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar @roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 03032023 Muy bue Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 03032023 Muy buen día mucho sol y todo va secando. Estuvimos en el rincón y casi no había una presa mojada!! Unos de los otros sectores se puede ver en las fotos siguientes: Entecampos, Cabras Alpinas, El rincón...y tampoco parecen mojados. 📷 David Rothstein en Sarah, 6c. 
Stunning day lots of sun's and some nice routes at El rincón. Everything is drying off nicely as you can see by the fotos of some of the other sectors I've uploaded.
@roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde #rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain @teverga_paraiso
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 02032023 Despué Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 02032023 Después de un par de días sosos hoy es una días espectacular. La pena es que porque los últimos días eran malos tampoco hay in montón de sitios secas. Igual en las placas de Quirós o en Muro Techo / Entecampos / Rincón sería cositas. Pero por lo menos con el sol así va secando. No hay viento y hace solo 6° dentro de la sombra. 
Stunner of a day but because the last few have been grim there's not too much dry. The slabs at Quirós may dry, but remember there's only sun until three then in Teverga there's Muro Techo, Entecampos and El rincón that should have stuff. No wind and only 6 degrees in the shade.
Remember our apartment in Teverga is in the heart of this beautiful scenery.
@roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde #rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Me pareció mucho más que dos años y medio cuand Me pareció mucho más que dos años y medio cuando el ganador del oro olímpico Alberto Gines López @albertogines estuvo en Teverga. En julio de 2020 fuimos un día para que el pudiera probar Clandestino, el único 9a de Teverga. Antes de probarlo hizo Alien, 7c+, a vista pero Clandestino estaba mojada abajo y al final casi no podía hacer nada. Buen recuerdos y como siempre cuando veas alguien haciendo tu deporte con tanto técnica con tan pocos años es un experiencia fantástica. Luego para verlo el año después en los olímpicos retrasado era inolvidable y estoy esperando a París 2024 para ver si el puede repitirlo. 💪💪
It seems like much more than two and a half years that Alberto Gines López was in Teverga. In July of 2020 just after the lockdown ended we went to the only 9a on Teverga, Clandestino but the start was wet and in the end he could barely try it. However it wasn't a wash out as he did a couple of other routes I managed to get some nice photos and spend another day with a future Olympic champion. It was amazing the year after seeing him win gold at the delayed Tokyo games and it'll be great to see if he can defend it in Paris.
If you fancy checking Teverga outr apartment is taking bookings..

#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar @woguclimbing #apartamentorocaverde #rocaverdeapartment @roca_verde_rentals
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 28022023 Último Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 28022023 Último día de febrero y es un día de invierno puro. Igual para los supervalientes con proyectos merece la pena ir a Muro Techo o algún sitio así protegido pero yo voy a hacer la yoga en casa e irme al tablón. 😉😉 Dicen que hoy debe ser el peor día entonces igual mañana salimos a la roca. Pero por lo menos las estaciones te darán bienvenidos si no se puede escalar ⛷️😂
Last day of February and it's a proper winter day. Cold grey and a bit snowy. 7° at the moment. There'll be some stuff dry for the keenest amongst you but I'm off to the board. Worst case the ski stations will be very keen to see you!!
#climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #sportclimbing #spain #apartamentorocaverde #rocaverdeapartment @roca_verde_rentals
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 18022023 Sé que Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 18022023 Sé que la foto parece iqual de ayer pero es porque el tiempo es igual. Otro día buenísimo.
I know the foto looks the same as yesterday but the weather basically is the same: perfect.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar @roca_verde_rentals
Sitio de hoy: Cabañes, Desfiladero de la Hermida. Sitio de hoy: Cabañes, Desfiladero de la Hermida. Si no has estado allí este muro tiene vías buenas en un lugar estupendo. Hay varios sectores pero lo más visitado es Pelea donde hay sol hasta las 4 de la tarde en invierno o sombra después de las 4 en verano. Entonces con los días soleados invernales a pesar de su altitud debe ser muy buen sitio. Hay unas vías maravillosas y una selección guapa para los que escalan sobre 6b/c como las vias en las fotos. Foto 1 Wences Rodríguez en vía 12, 6a+, que termina con unos pasos duros para subir una panza pequeña. Foto 2 Barbara Pena @babaidem en vía 17 6b, en que lo más duro consiste de un pequeño tramo de chorrera  con pasos exigentes.
Todas las vias y sectores aparece en el libro del Desfiladero disponible a través de mi página web.
A great spot for these sunny, winter day would be Sector Pelea at the crag of Cabañes in the, La Hermida valley. This crag, though high up has sun until 4pm and is in a stunning location in the shadow of the Picos. It's a great spot for those who climb up to 6b/c and the two routes in the fotos, routes 12 and 17 are both good examples of this. One a 6a+ tricky wall with a difficult bulge to finish and another 6b, with a hard tufa section.
#rockclimbing #lahermida #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #klettern #desnivel #escalar #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram @tenayaclimbing #climbtheworld @beta_climbing
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