Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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Bouldering at El gacho with James Pearson + Caroline Ciavaldini

February 3, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

El gacho es uno de los sitios más guapos y duros para hacer búlder en Asturias. En este pequeño video James + Caro conocen la zona y prueben sus joyas! Encuentras más sobre las zonas de búlder asturiano en el libro Roca Verde disponible en rocaverdeclimbing.com
El gacho is one of the most beautiful and brutal places to boulder in Asturias. In this short video James Pearson + Caroline Ciavaldini get to try some of the brilliant problems there. You can see more about Asturian bouldering in my Roca Verde guide available at rocaverdeclimbing.com

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Filed Under: Blog, Bouldering, Climbing, Escalada, escalada deportiva, Teverga Tagged With: Asturias, bouldering, bouldering videos, Caroline Ciavaldini, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, james pearson, rock climbing, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga

James Pearson – Bouldering at El Cantu, Teverga, Asturias

February 1, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

El Cantu, en Teverga, Asturias es una zona típica de búlder; un revoltijo de grandes bloques de piedra caliza en las laderas debajo de las paredes. Con alrededor de más de 100 problemas de todos los grados distribuidos en un área amplia, hay muchas cosas para hacer. El Cantu tiene una caliza gris excelente, compacta, que forma pendientes frustrantes en igual medida que pequeñas regletas. “¡Uno de mis problemas favoritos de El Cantú fue Houdini, un 8a bastante corto de 5 movimientos, que terminó con un doble lance lateral espectacular!” dijo James Pearson Once Upon a Climb cuando le llevé alli hace 4 años! Grabado por Muérdago Films Foto 300bolts
El Cantu is a typical bouldering area; a jumble of big limestone blocks on the slopes below the crags. With around 100 problems of all grades spread over a wide area, there are plenty of things to go at. El Cantu is superb, compact, grey limestone, which forms frustrating slopers in equal measure to tiny crimps.
As James Pearson said “One of my favourite problems from El Cantu was Houdini, a rather short, 5 move 8a, which ended with a spectacular sideways double dyno!” Filmed by Muérdago Films Photo 300bolts

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Filed Under: Bouldering, Climbing, Uncategorized Tagged With: Asturias, bouldering, bouldering videos, casa quiros, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada roca verde, james pearson, roca verde climbing, Teverga

James Pearson Guest Blog – Roca Verde Road Trip – Day 6 – Bouldering

January 30, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

“Sometimes our trips are meticulously planned and sometimes they just happen, often at the whim of others. Our Roca Verde road trip was the latter. Touching down at night in late October to Santander after a week of work in England we were looking forward to a climbing break – but we hadn’t a clue what to expect – all we knew was that we had seven days guided round the region.  

Our good friend Richie Patterson, the author of the first English language guide to a block of north-west Spain he’d christened Roca Verde, had invited us; but we didn’t really know where we were going or what the area encompassed. We’d actually not climbed in Spain for a while as we are always looking to go a little ‘off-piste’ and the crowds and polish of the major destinations, however good the climbing, don’t really appeal. So when Richie promised unpolished rock, empty crags and plenty of great routes to go at – we were intrigued enough to give it a go!”

Day 6 – Bouldering – El Gachu, El Cantu and Cabo Negro – Central Asturias

Although not perhaps the strong point of Asturias, Richie was keen for us to sample some of the bouldering, and he’d planned out one long, crazy day to take in all Asturias had to offer. Knowing me quite well I think he knew that I’d appreciate it a bit more than Caro, and promptly warned her that it would be somewhat of an acquired taste…English style!

We began the day at El Gachu, a hidden gem, tucked away on a hillside, halfway up the 1200m pass of San Lorenzo.  It’s a super steep wall of quartzite that reminded me heavily of the Bowderstone in the Lake District, with a load of hard problems up to 8b+, 50 meters long and overhanging in its entirety, the problems climbed really well, even if they were not the most inspiring of lines. The location however was a spectacular, isolated from the rest of the world as you look down on the Teverga spread out far below.

Caro on one of the super steep 7a+ boulders of El Gachu

Once again pushed for time, we hopped in the car and dropped back down to Teverga. El Cantu is a somewhat more typical bouldering area; a jumble of big limestone blocks on the slopes below the crags. With around 100 problems of all grades spread over a wide area, there are plenty of things to go at. El Cantu is superb, compact, grey limestone, which forms frustrating slopers in equal measure to tiny crimps.  One of my favourite problems from El Cantu was Houdini, a rather short, 5 move 8a, which ended with a spectacular sideways double dyno!  The easier problems are just as good, and brought with them something that limestone bouldering so often lacks – lines… After a few more problems across the various blocks we settled for lunch of fresh cooked empanada, a local treat of a flat bread filled with chorizo, and chilled out as the sun danced across the hillside opposite lighting up the sectors we’d climbed on previously.

Tired but happy we dozed in the car as Richie drove us North to the coast, to the last venue of the day, and the trip. Very much a coastal region, Asturian climbers had been exploring the cliffs and boulders next to the Atlantic for many years and found some impressive venues. Cabo Negro was one of the most famous and popular, a bunch of rough black boulders sat on a wide tidal ledge, just above the pounding sea. Facing west there were views of the port of Aviles and Richie swore it was perfectly placed to enjoy superb sunsets!

Walking down to Cabo Negro

Arriving at the boulders after a short walk along the cliff top path, it was atmospheric to say the least.  Substantial waves were crashing in, over the ledge, and sending plumes of spray 10 metres into the air. Sadly, this combination of wind and waves meant that much was too wet to climb, and we began to get a little nervous as we realised the tide was already on its way back in.

James on the classic 7a, waiting for the promised sunset on a cloudy day…

Then, whilst traversing the thinnest part of the ledge to check out the furthest boulders, I turned back as I heard a high-pitched scream and several choice French curse words. For a moment Caroline disappeared behind a huge wall of spay, luckily to re-appear a second or too later, although by now soaked to the skin! At this point we decided that discretion was the better part of valour, and that perhaps we should cut our visit short. I was reluctant to leave without trying a single problem, and so grabbed my boots to quickly play on a few of the drier boulders as Caro shivered semi-naked!!

A bit posed but we had to show the scale of the waves – the day was pretty frightening tbh!!

Day 7 – Homeward bound

Settling down on the plane and thinking about the week that had whizzed by, I thought back to Richie’s emphasis of the ‘difference’ we’d find in the north of Spain. This was Spain, but not as we had known it before: the crags were empty and unpolished, the climbing superb, and the ambience was like a snapshot of the rural past, all in the most spectacular, and very, green settings!

Caro had christened it ‘tufaland’ on day one as we marvelled at the amount of rock in La Hermida but the truth was that there seemed to be a bit of everything, especially in the west.  With Quirós and Teverga providing complementary and contrasting venues so close together, there are a ton of great routes across all grades and styles, enough for even the pickiest of climbers.

Although far too short, our trip had given us a taste of these “new” regions of Spain, and all they have to offer – and we hadn’t even made it to Leon (the remaining third of the Roca Verde guide) We left surprised, happy and content, knowing that Roca Verde was one part of Spain to which we cant wait to return.

Sunset at Casa Quiros on James and Caro’s last night!!

You can check out James and Caro’s adventures in northern Spain in a short series of movies they made about the place: their Roca Verde Road Trip.
They’re all on Epic TV so here’s some links
Part 1 – https://youtu.be/n5bil2d1Br4
Part 2 – https://youtu.be/yq37n0zej9A
Part 3 – https://youtu.be/HQ6RheBVFog

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Filed Under: Blog, Bouldering, Climbing, Escalada, escalada deportiva, Quiros, sports climbing, Teverga Tagged With: bouldering, bouldering videos, bulder, Cabo negro, Caroline Ciavaldini, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, el cantu, El gachu, escalada roca verde, james pearson, northern Spain, Picos de Europa, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga

James Pearson Guest Blog – Roca Verde Road Trip – Day 3 , 4 + 5 Valles de Trubia

January 26, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

“Sometimes our trips are meticulously planned and sometimes they just happen, often at the whim of others. Our Roca Verde road trip was the latter. Touching down at night in late October to Santander after a week of work in England we were looking forward to a climbing break – but we hadn’t a clue what to expect – all we knew was that we had seven days guided round the region.  

Our good friend Richie Patterson, the author of the first English language guide to a block of north-west Spain he’d christened Roca Verde, had invited us; but we didn’t really know where we were going or what the area encompassed. We’d actually not climbed in Spain for a while as we are always looking to go a little ‘off-piste’ and the crowds and polish of the major destinations, however good the climbing, don’t really appeal. So when Richie promised unpolished rock, empty crags and plenty of great routes to go at – we were intrigued enough to give it a go!”

­­­Day 3 – El Covachón – Teverga – Central Asturias

We woke up in the quaint, forgotten village of Aciera below Quirós, and enjoyed a slow Spanish style breakfast and coffee on the terrace of Richie’s guest house (www.casaquiros.co.uk), we flicked through the guide book. We decided on Teverga, perhaps the largest separate area, home to more than 25 sectors and nearly 500 routes of every style.  Richie suggested the super steep cave of El Covachon, as a good friend of his would be there, trying his project.

If the cave looks steep in the guide, it’s nothing to how it looks in real life!  The lip of the roof is actually lower than the apex of the cave, meaning you are actually climbing downwards for the last few meters.  As seems to be the norm in this place, a beautiful view down the valley and onto the town is reward for anyone brave enough to come climbing here.  El Covachón is one of the more hard core venues in the guide, with routes only beginning at 7a+, but if you’re climbing these grades is well worth a visit.

 

Day 4 – Quirós – Central Asturias

It wasn’t by chance that Richie’s guesthouse was located in Quirós.  The hills around the village are covered in rock, and we soon discovered that Quirós was the first ‘big’ crag of Asturias and has been climbed on since the 60’s!  The majority of routes are off-vertical long wall climbs, fitting to the climbing style of the time.  Even the eccentric Brit John Redhead made his mark by establishing Placa John, the first 7a of the region; but it wasn’t until 1987 that Fran Blanco moved away from the slabs to take on one a short steep roof, giving Asturias its first 8a in the form of Rompedor. Always psyched to add a bit of history to the agenda we headed up to check it out.  The crags of Quirós are only a short distance from the village, and walking up from the house the beauty of the area and the attractiveness of the situation was continually evident. Overlooking a lake and at the bottom of an amazingly verdant valley Quirós is now considered an everyman crag, with over 300 routes, most of which are below 7a.

 

Rompedor was a great little climb, and nothing at all like what we had expected.  A boulder problem in the sky would be the best way to describe it, not at all like the other harder routes we had climbed in the region.  Its easy to understand why, as at the time of tiptoeing up vertical walls, people really didn’t know if roofs like this were even possible.  It’s logical to start with a small challenge, a few moves of overhanging terrain to test the water, and slowly move on from there.  As much as these routes can seem strange to us in an age of 50m long overhanging pump-fests, we should not forget that they were in fact the beginning of it all.

Having said all that, Quirós is really best for its stunning wall climbs.  La Amarilla is one of the better known sectors, with top quality, 35m long slabs on immaculate white and blue rock. Que la fuerza te accompañe 7b, and Cada loco con su tema, 6c,7a are worth a particular mention, and really showcase what climbing in Quirós is all about.

Day 5 – More Bóvedas – Teverga …!!

Teverga was just too good to spend only one day, so on day 5 of our trip, both skin and muscles sore, but psyche incredibly high, We found ourselves under just another tufa filled cave, and just another selection of incredible 5* routes.  Bóvedas, in two parts is literally the central part of the Teverga massif, and is a jam packed collection of great looking sectors: Bóvedas, Pared Negra, El Canal, Pingalagua are all as good as each other, yet cover a huge variety in climbing styles.  From 3 bolt 8bs to 40 metre 6bs, and crimpy off vertical walls, to pumpy overhanging tufas, La Cueva ticks all the boxes.

James on Dragon de Comorr, 7b+(7c) Bovedas.

We chose La Cueva, which was home to a bunch of the best mid grade 6’s I have ever climbed.  From the belay of these routes, it is possible to continue up through the roof and steep wall above, where things suddenly get a lot more serious! Dragón de Comorr, is a 7b+ extension to an already amazing 6c, that follows a single, eye-catching tufa all the way to a technical and balancy finish on the slab way above.  An amazing route, and perhaps a little tough for the grade… after all, it was the only route I fell off all week!

You can check out James and Caro’s adventures in northern Spain in a short series of movies they made about the place: their Roca Verde Road Trip.
They’re all on Epic TV so here’s some links
Part 1 – https://youtu.be/n5bil2d1Br4
Part 2 – https://youtu.be/yq37n0zej9A
Part 3 – https://youtu.be/HQ6RheBVFog

 

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Filed Under: Climbing, escalada deportiva, sports climbing Tagged With: Asturias, Caroline Ciavaldini, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, james pearson, northern Spain, Quiros, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing

James Pearson + Caroline Ciavaldini visit Roca Verde…Part 1

November 10, 2015 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Wow…what a week…It’s great having visitors and showing off the place where you live – and have written a guidebook about!

But boy is it tiring…

James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini are friends of mine and were looking for a new place to visit for a recreational week of climbing after a busy month of work in England. So I decided to give them a whistle stop tour of the Roca Verde region.

IMG_9357-LoStarting in the east we stayed in La Hermida (at La Cuadrona, one of the best hotels around with ‘climber-friendly’ owners and lovely rooms) and visited some of the tufa-strewn crags in this amazing valley.

Soon after we hit the first crag (not officially on the map yet – watch this space) Caro christened this area ‘tufa-land’ and we had a great day on newly bolted lines up to 40 metres!! One with overhanging ‘tram-line’ tufas for the final 25m…

Embarrassing river crossing shot...
Embarrassing river crossing shot…

More tufas followed at Poo de Cabrales a classic destination in the shadow fo the Picos and with views of the iconic Picu Urriellu (Naranjo de Bulnes) in the background.

Checking the guide in the shadow of Bulnes...
Checking the guide in the shadow of Bulnes…

James and Caro made short work of many of the classics here but were stoked on the quality of the routes and at least one of them put up a bit of resistance – the short, thin tufa of ‘Bizcocho’ 7b+, surprising both of them with it’s difficulty. Short but no giveaway it seems.

James on Bizcocho
James on Bizcocho

They also sent Lord Byron 7c+ and few more and once again were impressed with the quality and the situation…

Day three saw us over in the west – James and Caro were ensconced in our holiday home – www.casaquiros.co.uk and we headed out to the giant cave of El Covachon in Teverga to get some steepness! James and Caro loved it and sent a bunch of classics including Mana  8a, Samba pa ti 8a, and Milenium 8a+. We also met up with locals Armando and Raul and had a great time cheering on Armando as he so nearly sent his project Macaco, 8b which crosses the giant roof.

Aramando almost getting it...but not quite...
Aramando almost getting it…but not quite…

Anyway, despite the disappointment for Aramndo it was a superb day’s climbing and James and Caro were suitably impressed with the quality and quantity of routes in the cave and once again the amazing situation overlooking the verdant valleys.

James onsighting Mana 8a as his warm up!!
James onsighting Mana 8a as his warm up!!

So after a great day we went in search of cider…

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: carloing ciavaldini, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, desfiladero de La Hermida, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, james pearson, once upon a climb, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga, tufa climbing

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rocaverdeclimb

La vía del día! Hoy debe ser el día perfecto pa La vía del día! Hoy debe ser el día perfecto para disfrutar esta joya de Tino y Charo, La ardilla roja, 7b+ en el sector de Entecampos arriba, Teverga. Con dos largos, 6c+, 7b+, ambos de regletas, hay que saber como escalar con ñapas y en pies pequeños. Es el tipo de escalada técnica que no aprendes en un tablón ni, especialmente en el primer largo, ayuda nada la fuerza excesiva en los brazos. 😂 A menudo hay mucho calor en este sector pero un día asi con temperaturas máxima de 9° puede ser ideal.
📸 Lolo @lolovan.ni de un joven Alberto García @themoss31 @bouldermoss 
Más fotos guapas y todas las vias detalladas en el libro de Roca Verde. Y si buscas alojamiento tenemos un piso nuevo en San Martín Apartamento Roca Verde - mandame un DM para saber más.
Route of the day!! This fingery offering, La ardilla roja, 6c+, 7b+, is on the often too warm wall of Entecampos arriba and features super technical climbing on the first pitch and equally technical but slightly steeper stuff on the second. A brilliant climb but the sort of route where training indoors isn't going to help a lot and the size of you arms, especially on the first pitch, counts for nothing. 😉
Get all the info in the Roca Verde guide and if you're looking to visit we have a new apartment in San Martin right next to the routes. Send me a DM for the low down...
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #apartamentorocaverde #rocaverdeapartment @roca_verde_rentals #paraisonatural @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias @ludoaventura
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 31012023 Pues de Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 31012023 Pues después de un racha de tiempo malisimo esto era el estado de la roca ayer por la tarde a las 5. Básicamente hay bastante cosas secas en - Depuradora, el rincón, Placas del Sol, Entecampos + Arriba y por supuesto Muro Techo. Pero los sitios desplomados y los que no reciben sol quedan mojadas. Ayer la temperatura subió hasta 9° y dentro del sol tampoco malo. En Quirós también las placas han secado mucho pero los tramos de chorrera y tal quedan malos. Hoy cielo azul y totalmente despejado y sin viento. 
So, after a few grim days the crags are drying but basically only the slabbier spots which are in the sun. Anything steep and with tufas remains pretty wet. Today its perfectly still with blue sky. Should be good later in the sun.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #meteo #weather #asturias #spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #apartamentorocaverde #rocaverdeapartment
De Raquetas por San Lorenzo, Teverga. Snowshoeing De Raquetas por San Lorenzo, Teverga. Snowshoeing in San Lorenzo, Teverga.
Las Ubiñas en su ropa de invierno. Las ubinas in Las Ubiñas en su ropa de invierno. Las ubinas in winter garb.
#teverga @turismoasturias
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 21012023 Por fin Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 21012023 Por fin ha parado de llover y ha despejado mucho también con cielo azul y bastante soleado. I gual hoy en Teverga es demasiado temprano pero mañana debe ser razonable en varios sitios. Igual en Quirós donde el sol llega más temprano habrá cosas secas en las placas más abiertas.
Finally stopped raining sun is out so that's good. Probably too early for Teverga but I reckon some of the slabs at Quirós should be OK.
#rockclimbing #teverga #apartamentorocaverde #rocaverdeapartment #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #meteo #weather #asturias #spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar @casa_quiros
Vistas dramáticas de hoy... #marabio #meteo Drama Vistas dramáticas de hoy...
#marabio #meteo
Dramatic views from today...
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 20012923 Pues la Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 20012923 Pues la lluvia ayer no paró nada. 20 horas diluviendo. Entonces los sectores de Teverga estan así - mojados. Os digo cuando mejora la situación. 😘
Igual el finde habrá algo seco en Muro Techo o Entecampos pero vamos a ver. Por lo menos me parece que en domingo vamos a ver el sol otra vez...🤷
Pissed down all day yesterday and the next couple of days look grim. Looks decent on Sunday so maybe Muro Techo or Entecampos...🤦
#apartamentorocaverde #rocaverdeapartment #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #weather #meteo
Mientras sacaba fotos de las montañas en frente d Mientras sacaba fotos de las montañas en frente de mi casa pasó un pajaro. Que suerte tuve capturarlo. Día mágico.
While I was photographing the snowy peaks opposite my house this raptor happened by once. Lucky me caught it.
#teverga #asturias #lovewhereyoulive #wildlife #birdwatching #spain #cordilleracantabrica @turismoasturias @tebergavalley #apartamentorocaverde #rocaverdeapartment #paraisonatural
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 18012023 Nieve. Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 18012023 Nieve. Mucha nieve. Pero ya están limpias las carreteras y debe ser razonable conducir por los valles. Después de dos días de lluvias fuertes y luego la nieve igual será mejor ir al tablón que arriesgar algo afuera. Pero una vez que pueda bajar el valle pongo más información.
Snow. Lots of snow. After a couple of days of rain and now snow is probably best to head to the climbing wall. But at least the, roads are reasonably clear. #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar @casa_quiros #apartamentorocaverde #rocaverdeapartment
Que día más chulo on un buen grupazo de gente. E Que día más chulo on un buen grupazo de gente. Enhorabuena a mi mujer Mary @asturiandiary por encadenar la vía Aspero mundo, 7a+, después de una caída buena. Las otras fotos son de Pintxo pollo, 7b, de @galiares6a con Berto Moss @themoss31 y Mony @monygarcias intentándolo y Kati @_kathjess en la vía más dura de Muro Techo, Quebrantahuesos, 6b+.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #dedication #rocaverde #training #@grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #spain
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