Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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Roca Verde reviewed by Climb Magazine Jan 2015

January 27, 2015 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

There is nothing that makes me more nervous that putting Roca Verde up for review.

Because even though it’s been quite successful so far, and everyone’s been very complimentary, there’s always the feeling at the back of my mind that I’ve missed something and that someone, one day will point out the obvious thing I’ve missed! I’ll pick up the magazine and the review will read something like ‘the book was great but if only Richie hadn’t made that huge mistake on page 99’.

And all of that goes double when the review in question comes from Climb Magazine, and it’s author is Dave Pickford who’s not only been to Asturias but is a man of high standards.  So it was with great trepidation that I picked up my copy of the Jan 2015 issue where my book was being reviewed…

Climb Magazine Jan 2015
Climb Magazine Jan 2015

And it was an audible sigh I let out when I read it. No huge error had come to light and Dave seemed to like the book and certainly still had fond memories of Asturias and his visit.

Indeed, his words of encouragement to ‘just buy a copy of Roca Verde and book a flight to Santander’ echo my own and so I’ll say it again. This is a great spot hop on a plane and come and visit us…

Casa Quiros – It’s worth mentioning here that we have just opened a new guesthouse in the region so if you are thinking of a visit please check out our website for booking and prices.

Finally if you’re not convinced by that review here’s another – this time from the estimable Niall Grimes and if you’re still not convinced here’s another from Miles Gibson

 

 

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Filed Under: Reviews Tagged With: Asturias, climb magazine, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, reviews, roca verde climbing, roca verde climbing review, rock climbing, sport climbing, travel

Esplanada: a route falls – and so do some rocks!!

January 14, 2015 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

La Esplanada at Teverga is one of the most popular sectors at this crag and one we return to plenty. And it’s not hard to see why: some superb routes across the grades, shade until 1pm on a lot of it, shade again in the evening and a big grassy area that’s perfect for Jack and other kids to play!

However, there is a downside and as I point out in the book it’s rockfall – importantly, not over the whole area, but on some the routes right on the Senda very occasionally it can be a dangerous place and helmet is recommended.

We returned to Esplanada recently and after a break of some time I decided to warm up on the classic Woman del Callao, 6b+, which as always provided plenty of entertainment – but this time not just because of the testing nature of the intricate climbing! About 5 bolts up a whizzing sounds pricked my ears and the thud of rocks hitting the ground next to Mary shattered our evening peace.

It was for this reason we hadn’t done this route in a while and that I’d recommend helmets for the few routes on this slab as, once in a while, following heavy rain or when the goats are above this part of the Senda is a like a firing range. For one reason or another i stuck with it and finished the route (it’s actually pretty safe tucked right in on the rock) but even as i did some more, bigger stones crashed to the ground.

The author on Momo, 7b+, Esplanda..
The author on Momo, 7b+, Esplanda..

Deciding to move to a calmer route we shifted our gear into the main part of Esplanada to where the steep walls above guaranteed that we wouldn’t be disturbed…

I had a mission and that was to tick off an old enemy, Momo, a burly and technical 7b+ that I had tried a few years previously and been somewhat put off by dint of not being fit enough to try it! LOL

Anyway, this time things flowed better and after a quick ‘dog’ to put the draws in, the redpoint adrenaline (possibly from the previous adventures) seemed to get me through the steep and pumpy crux to a delicate rockover move on the final slab. Easy I thought, having dogged it a few minutes previously, but this time, first go I almost fell. Shaking slightly I committed and was relieved to find my foot stick on the rounded boss and a jug come into my grasp…

So from a somewhat dodgy start the evening ended well and a little itch was scratched…as well as a reminder that even sport climbing isn’t 100% safe!!

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, northern Spain, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga

Asturias has it’s first 9a…and it’s totally natural!

October 27, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

A few days ago I went to see for myself the first 9a in Asturias. It’s in Teverga, the ever expanding climbing paradise, but on an out of the way buttress which sports a selection of super routes.

Established over 15 days by Madrid climber, Pablo it’s a 28 metre gently overhanging wall which very unusually goes without resort to chipping or sica!! A fantastic effort!!

Jairo on the first hard section of Clandestino
Jairo on the first hard section of Clandestino

Arriving at the crag it was pretty obvious this wasn’t an evening for sending: the ‘Indian summer’ was continuing and it was around 25 degrees and very still. Jairo and Ignacio Mulero (a very strong youth who was projecting the route) were already there and it was incredibly inspirational to see Isaac ‘warming up’ by smoothly climbing through long sections of the route despite the sweaty humid conditions.

Ignacio Mulero on the 9a
Ignacio Mulero on the 9a

Unfortunately for me the crag’s easiest route is a 7c+/8a, called Alien and so after warming up as much as I could with a theraband I gamely gave it a go!!

Me warming up
Me warming up

Way steeper than it looked, I got thoroughly spanked first go and lowered off from what I thought was the crux as a sweaty mess. Second go I felt better and arrived at the ‘crux’ and after a few dogs got through it…however, as ever a bit of misunderstanding doesn’t help and I realised with horror that what I had done was a preliminary bit and the crux was yet to come.

Steep enough? Alien, 8a...
Steep enough? Alien, 8a…

 

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, northern Spain, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, Spain, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga

Rio Seco – Steep and savage…

October 25, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

After a gap of about two years I returned to Rio Seco for a session with Arturo and Adri. And although conditions were against us (it was still about 25 degrees when I arrived) I was still surprised by how fierce the routes were. Never a spot for beginners I was still taken a bit aback by the steepness, especially in the central part of Diamante where I’d never climbed.

Adrian Gonzalez on La de Sergio 7a/+
Adrian Gonzalez on La de Sergio 7a/+

Sector Diamante is perhaps the hardest of the sectors at Rio Seco and takes no prisoners – especially in the heat. I started on a route I’d done a few times as a warm up Nozalina, 7a, and promptly rested three times and came down running with sweat…it was worse than I’d thought!!

Fortunately Adri had left the clips in the next one, the ‘much steeper than it looked’ La de Sergio, 7a/+. This took a very steep but mercifully short tufa line up to a chain which allowed you to warm up without the obviously brutal move that the extension of the route took at an undergraded 7c+…

On the finish of  La de Sergio 7a/+
On the finish of La de Sergio 7a/+

Adri and Arturo then introduced me the next level on the very bouldery, Viciosilla, 8a. One very hard move leads to a difficult slab and between them, the moves, with tiny crimps, proved impossible in the heat.

Arturo on Viciosilla, 8a, Sector Diamante
Arturo on Viciosilla, 8a, Sector Diamante

Importantly I also met up with I also met up with David Acido who has taken on the task of cleaning up and re-equipping the almost forgotten crag of El Condado. Close to Pola de Laviana this was an important proving ground in the late 90’s but due to the road being moved it has made it a less accessible and almost forgotten spot.

David has taken on the task of cleaning and re-equipping and so with money from the Roca Verde bolt fund I provided him with a load of stainless steel bolts and some belays too. I said I’d also help him Hopefully we will also produce new topos for the area and re-vitalise this one popular spot.

David with the material provided by the Roca Verde bolt fund.
David with the material provided by the Roca Verde bolt fund.

 

 

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, Bolt fund, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, Rio Seco, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, tufa climbing

Casa Quirós – our holiday cottage under the crag

September 10, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

We have just opened Casa Quirós – a picture-book pretty, traditional stone-built Asturian house that has been recently renovated to a high standard.

A great spot for climbers, Casa Quirós is just underneath one of the best crags in Asturias, Quirós, which has nearly 300 sports routes spread over 22 sectors. Teverga, another huge climbing area, with nearly 500 routes, is only 15 minutes drive.

The view from Casa Quirós on a summer morning...
The view from Casa Quirós on a summer morning…

The south facing house sleeps four and is situated in Aciera, a picturesque traditional Asturian village, in the heart of the parque natural de Las Ubiñas-La Mesa. Surrounded by beautiful peaks and passes the area is perfect for all types of outdoor activity including; climbing, road biking, mountain biking, trail running, hiking, fishing and birdwatching

If climbing’s not your thing (or your partner’s) then not to worry because the area has loads more to offer. The road and mountain biking, straight from the house, are both awesome. For littler legs the 45km long, mostly flat, Senda del Oso (bear path – yes, we even have bears!) wends its way along the foot of the valley beneath the village. There’s even kayaking on the reservoir just below the house.

See more about Casa Quirós here…

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Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: aciera, Asturias, climbing, Cordillera Cantabrica, El Llano, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, holiday cottage, holiday rental, Quiros, rental house, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, tourist tips, travel

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rocaverdeclimb

Roca Verde is the first and best dual language rock climbing guidebook to the amazing crags in north west Spain: Asturias, Cantabria & Leon.

El día perfecto para la subida más deseado de As El día perfecto para la subida más deseado de Asturias... Perfect day for an ascent of the best climb in Asturias..
Estilo de los 70...en León ayer. #berberino #dron Estilo de los 70...en León ayer. #berberino #dron
Mick Gardner 70s style in Leon yesterday. Great little crag but hot. The promised clouds were not there. #hot
Eléctrico. Buena roca con muchas ñapas 🤣🤣 Eléctrico. Buena roca con muchas ñapas 🤣🤣
Plumas, 14° y viento frescito...ha llegad el otoño. Por fin 🤣💪👌 Duvet jackets, 14° and a cool breeze. Autumn is here at last. #teverga #connies #escalada #escaladaespaña #escaladaenroca
So here’s another ‘proudest’ moment, again g So here’s another ‘proudest’ moment, again gritstone, again Stanage, again black and white, but this time a first ascent: Skinless Wonder, E6 6c on Apparent North buttress. The feeling of being able to add a three star line to the queen of grit was, and still is, fantastic. I was lucky to grow up in the age where there were still routes to do on Stanage and this one was a gem; a boulder start followed by a desperate, cheese-grating mantle. It was named for the amount of skin I lost from both my forearm and chin falling on the first attempt. Ouchy…Brilliant photos as ever from Jez Portman which show the angle. 
Additionally, it was possibly this line which sparked a mini-revival of this buttress with routes like Black Car Burning E7 6c @robinbarker337, Groove is in the heart E7 7a @neil.bentley.338 and Little Women E7 7a John Welford all following in the next few years making this tiny buttress one of the hardest and highest quality on grit. 
Aquí presento otro momento de orgullo total: de nuevo en gritstone, otra vez en Stanage y en otra vezblanco y negro, pero esta vez se trata de una primera ascensión: Skinless Wonder, E6 6c, en la zona de Apparent North. La sensación de hacer una vía nueva de tres estrellas a ‘la reina del grit’ fue, y sigue siendo, fantástica. Tuve la suerte de escalar en una época en la que aún quedaban vías por abrir en Stanage, y esta fue una auténtica joya: un inicio tipo bulder seguido de un mantle desesperado y abrasivo. Recibió ese nombre precisamente por la cantidad de piel que perdí en el antebrazo y la barbilla al caerme en el primer intento. ¡Qué dolor! 
#oldman #nostalgia #gritstonedreaming #stanage
One of my proudest moments, making the second asce One of my proudest moments, making the second ascent of Sad Amongst Friends, E7, 6c, Cowperstone, Stanage. This route was made iconic by being on the front cover of the classic Stanage guide, 1987 I think, and featured a youthful Johnny Dawes in bright red tights. It was another step on the ladder of increasingly difficult, different and often unlikely ascents Johnny was making which IMHO revolutionised gritstone (and UK) climbing. Sitting unrepeated since 1984 it was one of the last of that era that was still that way 15 years on, and I'm not even sure that anyone had tried it, despite it being on the front cover, such was his/its reputation.
So in August 1999, yes you can climb grit in summer, I brought, I brought a few pads and a top class spotting crew : Neil Bentley, Robin Barker and Jon Barton, and had a great photographer John Houlihan, courtesy of Jon and his gritstone calender.
Most of my best climbing memories are from first ascents, but this was a day never to forget: repeating an iconic route by the generation's best climber on the queen of grit, and coming away with a stunning photo; it doesn't get much better than that. 
#gritstone #heroworship #stanage #climbing
@johnnydawesofficial @newclimberjon @robinbarker337 @neil.bentley.338

Uno de los momentos de los que más orgulloso me siento fue realizar la segunda ascensión de Sad Amongst Friends, E7, 6c en el Cowperstone, Stanage. Esta vía se convirtió en un icono al aparecer en la portada de la clásica guía de Stanage. Al no haberse repetido desde 1984, era una de las últimas vías de aquella época que seguía sin repeticiones quince años después; de hecho, ni siquiera estoy seguro de que alguien lo hubiera intentado, a pesar de su fama y de haber protagonizado la portada de la guía.
Aunque la mayoría de mis mejores recuerdos como escalador provienen de primeras ascensiones, aquel fue un día inolvidable: repetir una vía emblemática abierta por el mejor escalador de la generación en la «reina» de las zonas de *gritstone*, y conseguir además una fotografía espectacular; No hay nada mejor que eso.
Ginseng, 7c+, Muro Techo... @jairo_sin_mas #escal Ginseng, 7c+, Muro Techo...
@jairo_sin_mas 
#escaladadeportiva #teverga #escalada #escaladaespaña #tenaya
Instagram post 18126982978780325 Instagram post 18126982978780325
Otra iniciativa fenomenal del @grupoagujasobia un Otra iniciativa fenomenal del @grupoagujasobia un maratón de escalada en los muros icónicos  de Teverga.
Guarda la fecha : Sábado 7 de Noviembre 2026
#escaladadeportiva #escalada #teverga #maratón
Cuevas del Mar hoy. Hace un tiempo compré un mont Cuevas del Mar hoy. Hace un tiempo compré un montón de tensores químicos marinos para dar a los equipadores de Pechón, un impresionante acantilado sobre el mar en Cantabria. Llevaba tiempo preocupado por los chapas de la zona y si Roca Verde va a comprar material, debería ser para cosas como esta: para asegurar que quienes abran nuevas vías puedan dejarlas en el mejor estado. Y gracias al esfuerzo heroico de Sergio Torio y José Garrido, el acantilado ha sido completamente reequipado.
Al mismo tiempo, me preocupaba Cuevas del Mar, un acantilado muy popular en Asturias, donde el equipamiento es un poco caótico: algunos nuevos, otros viejos, algunos pegados, algunos de acero inoxidable, algunos de acero galvanizado. Así que compré más anclajes y contacté con César, quien no solo equipó las primeras vías, sino que también organiza la compra de material para FEMPA. Hicimos un plan y hoy empezamos. Yo traje 80 quimicos, tres taladros y unas escaleras largas, César trajo más anclajes y un taladro más grande, Sergio aportó su experiencia y otro taladro y Tony (de Beta Climbing) trajo un poco de todo.
Al final, conseguimos equipar 10 vías con tensores quimicos en la zona mas popular lo cual es un gran comienzo. Y esperamos que casi todo este acantilado, donde escalan muchos principiantes, pronto sea más seguro que nunca.
Cuevas del Mar today. A while ago i bought a load of marine grade chemical bolts to give to the equippers of Pechón a brilliant cliff just above the sea in Cantabria. I had been worried for a while about the bolts there and if Roca Verde is going to buy bolts then they should be  for things like that: To ensure that the people doing new routes could leave them in the best state. And thanks to herioc efforts by Sergio Torio and Jose Garrido the cliff has been fully re'equiped. 
At the same time I was worried about Cuevas del Mar, a really popular sea cliff in Asturias where the bolting was a little haphazard - some new, some old, some glue-ins, some inox, some zincado. So I bought more bolts and got in touch with Cesar who, not only equipped the first routes but also organises the buying of material for FEMPA.
More in comments....
Sector Monstruitos, Quirós actualizado recienteme Sector Monstruitos, Quirós actualizado recientemente por @diegonaranjorivas @santi.cuervo.m @refugio_del_llano y @f.e.m.p.a Fuimos allí hace una semana tengo que decir es un sector muy bonito con un buen cantidad de vías geniales. Hace muchas años cuando estaba haciendo la primera edición de Roca Verde hice una de las 6a allí y me cague por el estado de las chapas entonces agradezco mucho el trabajo por poder hacerlos sin la sensación de estrés. 😂😂 
La parte iz tiene caliza gris super dura y vías cortas mientras la parte derecha es más marrón y muy parecida de sector Rio con vías verticales de resistencia.
Aproximación fácil y chapas muy bien puestas. Sombra después de las 11/12 y perfecto para los días calurosos. 
Muy buen trabajo 💪💪💪💪 volveré pronto.
Y para ellos que no sabe donde está colocado, mientras subes hacia La cubana si mires a la iz esta allí. Aproximación fácil.

Sector Monstruitos, Quirós, recently updated by @diegonaranjorivas @santi.cuervo.m @refugio_del_llano and @f.e.m.p.a. We went there a week ago and I have to say it's a very beautiful sector with a bunch of good routes. Many years ago, when I was doing the first edition of Roca Verde, I did one of the 6a routes there and I was terrified by the state of the bolts, so I really appreciate the work done to be able to do them without that feeling of stress. 😂😂
The left side has super hard gray limestone and short routes, while the right side is browner and very similar to the Rio sector with vertical endurance routes.
Easy approach and very well-placed bolts. Shade after 11/12 and perfect for hot days.
Very good work 💪💪💪💪 I'll be back soon. And for those who don't know where it is, as you walk up towards La Cubana, if you look to the left, it's there. Easy approach.
#escaladadeportiva #escalada #escaladaespaña #escaladaenroca
Noticia importante puesto por @grupoagujasobia sob Noticia importante puesto por @grupoagujasobia sobre una prohibición temporal en la zona de Peñas Juntas por la presencia de una osa y su cría. Hay un cartel puesto en un árbol donde se sale el camino hacia la escuela.
Importante news about a temporary access issue at Peñas Juntas near Proaza. Because of the presence of a bear and her cub access is curtailed  until forther notice.
#escaladadeportiva #escalada #osos #prohibida
Noticias malas desde León. Varios escuelas cerrad Noticias malas desde León. Varios escuelas cerradas por nidificacion. No inesperado pero triste! No se las fechas exactas pero intentaré encontrarlas pero seguro que habrá carteles en cada uno de los sectores. 
Bad news from Leon, the closure of varios sectors for bird nesting. Please look out for the signs at each of the crags as I am not sure when the bans will end.
#escaladadeportiva #escalada #escaladaespaña #leon
Una semanita guapa por Alicante con unos amigos in Una semanita guapa por Alicante con unos amigos ingleses y dirigido por Irene Prendes con su conocimientos de la zona. El rut, Prares, Ambolo y otros. Unos días perfectos y otros con un viento frío bastante desagradable 🤣🤣
En la foto hago El mars, 7a, en Ambolo, sector muy divertido de desplome y cantos gigantes...y grados de vacaciones total 😜😜
#escalada
Instagram post 17872952664456144 Instagram post 17872952664456144
Muy buen día en este guapísimo sector de Quirós Muy buen día en este guapísimo sector de Quirós recién arreglado, Monstruitos. Muchas gracias a ellos que han cambiado las chapas en las vías viejas, limpiado las bases de los sectores y el acesso y han dejado unas vías nuevas que tienen muy buena pinta.
Roca de calidad acesso fácil y sombra a partir de las 12 este sector de dos paredes merece mucho una visita. Un día con luz perfecta y como siempre en Quirós vistas espectaculares.
@diegonaranjorivas
#escalada #escaladaespaña #escaladaenroca #quiros #climbspain
Hace un par de meses haciendo la última entrega d Hace un par de meses haciendo la última entrega de material de 2025 – todo inox: chapas, parabolts y reuniones – esta vez para el club @asturvertical 
Este club es el motor de la escalada en el valle de Morcin and sus miembros han abierto un montón de sectores nuevos y vías nuevas y siguen equipando. Estoy más que contento compartir este material con ellos y espero que les ayude abrir aún más. 
Como siempre la comunidad tiene que agradecer el trabajo a todos quien ha llevado un taladro para dejar más retos para los demás. 
A couple of months ago, I made the last delivery of gear for 2025 – all stainless steel: hangers, bolts, and anchors – this time for the @asturvertical club. This club is the driving force behind climbing in the Morcin Valley, and its members have opened a ton of new sectors and routes and continue to bolt. I'm more than happy to share this gear with them and hope it helps them open even more. As always, the community has to thank everyone who has used a drill to create more challenges for others.
#asturias #morcín #escalada #escaladaespaña
Cuando entrenaba fuerte para intentar 8b+ con 50años...y Jack pesaba 20kg 😂💪
When I was training to try and do 8b+ at 50...and Jack weighed 20kg
#olddogsnewtricks #training 
@latticetraining
Unas imágenes del viaje rápido que hicimos Jairo Unas imágenes del viaje rápido que hicimos Jairo y yo hace una semana a La pedriza. Unas días chulos en varios sectores con condiciones buenas. Las fotos están de varias vías con varios escaladores. 
📸 1 + 2 @tompaulrandall en un 7c
📸 3 + 4 Audun Massih @audunmassih_climbing en otro 7c
📸 Talo @talomartin en el 7c
📸 Yo probando (hace años) Mater misericordia , primer 8a de La Pedriza, otra de las vías que probamos allí este viaje y para la que tenemos volver. Foto @talomartin
📸 @jairo_sin_mas en un 7b+
📸 El talento 🤣🤣🤣
Un viaje corto pero que merecio la pena mucho y muy recomendable @hostellapedriza para comer o cenar y reunir con los escaladores de la zona.
También tengo que recomendar la guía nueva de la zona @pedrizaclimbs hecho por Talo y José @joromobikeclimb
Es la bomba!! Y creo que solo me faltan 2650 vías para completarla... 🤣🤣
Some shots from a quick trip to La pedriza about a week ago with Jairo. A great few days in such a fabulous place with a psyched crew of Brits, Swedes and Spaniards.
Talo's new guide to the routes is great, well worth the cash, and I would also heartily recommend Hostel La Pedriza as a great spot for a beer or food after a long day trashing your tips.
#putasplacas #escalada #escaladaespaña #escaladaenroca #climbinglife
Lo estoy poniendo otra vez porque tenía equivocad Lo estoy poniendo otra vez porque tenía equivocado las fechas de las prohibiciones por nidificacion.
En común con las escuelas al lado, Caldueño y Cabeza Alta, las fechas son dia 15 de diciembre hasta día 31 de agosto. 

Hace un par de días Javier López y Mariluz Santacruz me pasaron la siguiente información sobre un sector nuevo (cerca de los que ya existen) en la zona de Mazucu. El sector tiene muy buena pinta y con sombra después de las 2 de la tarde debe ser una buena opción por la tardes del verano y en el otoño también.
**Ves la aproximación y todo la infomación en mi página LINKINBIO
Equipadores : Javier López, Xuacu Amieva, Carlos Cué, Juan Ortin (nanas), Elena y Pablo González.
Sombra a partir de las 14 horas más o menos. Atención al largo de la cuerda en las vías 3, 4 y 5 (entre 40 y 45 metros - desde día 15de marzo hasta día 31 de julio en El Rejallu.
@javierlopezfernandez1 @clases_de_escalada
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