Errata en Roca Verde – una ‘mea culpa’…
Acabo de publicar en la página una lista de errores que aparecen en Roca Verde 3. Algunos son bastante pequeños, como algunas vías con los grados mal, pero hay algunos errores más importantes también. Lo más importante es que hay algunos errores tontos con el nuevo símbolo del sol, lo que ha provocado que en algunos sitios (aunque el texto está correcto) el símbolo esté mal en el croquis, lo que implica que hay sol por la mañana en vez de por la tarde, o el revés. Esto significa que a lo mejor haya gente que, en verano especialmente, pueda perder su tiempo (y gasolina!) viajando a un sector en mala hora y que no puedan escalar por el tema del sol.
Obviamente no está bien y es un error grande por mi parte entonces si sigues las enlaces verás un desglose de los errores y podrás corregir tu libro (si no lleva pegatinas) – y si sigues leyendo intento explicar lo que ha pasado….
Ir a la página de errores en los símbolo del sol
Ir a la página de errores en vías.
Evidentemente me da mucha vergüenza haber cometido estos errores y por eso quería escribir este blog y aceptar la responsabilidad de informar a la gente y también dar una explicación de cómo pasó. Es una situación irónica y vergonzosa a partes iguales, porque decidí cambiar los símbolos al parecerme que en la edición anterior no quedaban muy claros. No me gustaría ofrecer excusas baratas, pero un motivo de los errores es que revisé todo esto en las últimas semanas antes de la publicación y mientras maquetaba el libro con toda la información nueva.
Fue entonces también cuando me rompí un gemelo un día en el monte sacando fotos; una cosa lo que me aseguraron dos médicos que no era nada serio. Pero, después de unos días, se me hinchó muchísimo la pierna y acabé trabajando con mucho dolor (y tomando pastillas fuertes). ¡Todo eso hizo el trabajo muy, incómodo y después de unas semanas así, (trabajando con una pierna encima del escritorio ‘elevada’ como me dijeron), la cosa empeoró y acabé ingresado con una embolia pulmonar!
No sabía qué era una trombosis y solo fue a posteriori cuando me di cuenta de su gravedad. Lo que pasó fue que la rotura de fibras en el gemelo generó unos coágulos de sangre durante las semanas en las que estuve parado ‘descansando’ la pierna. Luego los trombos se soltaron y subieron hasta el pulmón bloqueando algunas arterias. La suerte y el hecho de que mi mujer tuviera algunos conocimientos médicos, me salvaron la vida porque (y esta es una historia más larga) el hospital me rechazó tratar cuando llegue a urgencias con mis síntomas.
En retrospectiva, parece obvio que debería haber pospuesto la publicación del libro unas semanas para recuperarme mejor y darme más tiempo para hacer más revisiones, pero sentí mucha presión por las ventas anticipadas y con una fecha ya reservada en la imprenta. Pero con todo lo que había pasado, tampoco estaba en el mejor momento para tomar decisiones claras pero bajo bastante estrés decidí seguir con el plan de trabajo inicial y por eso no supe reconocer todos los errores. Aunque parezca una tontería, es en este último tramo cuando revisas el libro una y otra vez hasta que pillas todas las pijadas que no ves la primera, segunda o incluso la tercera vez que lo revisas. Entonces lo que pensé que ha pasado es que cuando fui cambiando tantos símbolos en casi 300 croquis acabé ‘ciego’ al significado del símbolo y la dirección que marca la flecha. Es como repetir algo tantas veces hasta que pierde su significado.
Luego, cuando me di cuenta de algunos errores en la numeración de unas vías ( y rápidamente imprimí pegatinas para rectificar) seguía ciego a los errores en los símbolos del sol. Fue cuando me contactaron unos escaladores para avisarme y me di cuenta de los problemas. Así que tal y como hice con los errores en las vías, voy a poner pegatinas correctoras en el libro.
He escrito todo esto no sólo para explicar lo sucedido, pero sobre todo para presentar mis más sinceras disculpas y para comprometerme con hacer la siguiente edición (cuando sea) en lo posible sin errores. ¡Sobre todo, tengo que pedir disculpas a todos aquellos que hayan viajado a un sector en mala hora siguiendo las indicaciones equivocadas y a los equipadores que me confiaron sus ‘niños’ y no lo hice bien!
Aunque he tenido que gastar bastante dinero en las correcciones, quiero dejar lo claro que eso lo asumiré yo y que Roca Verde seguirá comprando chapas y material para los equipadores de Asturias, Cantabria y León para que, como siempre, parte de tu compra del libro revierta en crear nuevas vías para el disfrute de todos en la región. A día de hoy, el fondo de chapas de Roca Verde ha gastado unos 6.000 euros en material y el fondo del libro de La Hermida ha generado más de 4.000 euros para chapas y material.
Una vez más os doy las gracias por comprar el libro y espero que estos errores no os hayan incomodado mucho ni os hayan arruinado el libro. Y si conoces a otros que ya tengan el libro, te pido que les mandes a la página o que compartas este blog o lo que he puesto en Facebook, para que corra la voz a todos los que ya compraron el libro.
¡Mi último pensamiento es que, aunque me da mucha pena tener que escribir esto, con todo lo que me ha pasado, estoy muy contento de estar aquí para escribirlo! Los últimos meses han sido muy difíciles, tanto emocional como físicamente, y todavía varias pruebas de mis pulmones y el corazón.
Pero espero que pronto me van a dar la ‘luz verde’ para hacer un poco más y que pueda volver poco a poco a la escalada en roca (igual ya te hayas fijado en que no estoy colgando muchas fotos de escalada en Instagram). Y si salga a la roca me reconocerás fácil; ¡el gordo con los calcetines de compresión subiendo vías fáciles que no me suban el pulso cardiaco ni estresen los pulmones!
Una vez más, siento las molestias y nos veamos en la roca!!
Errors in Roca Verde – a ‘mea culpa’
Ok I have just put up on the website a list of errors that appear in Roca Verde 3.
Some of these are quite small – a few routes with the grades wrong and suchlike – but there are some bigger ones too. The most important have been some very stupid errors with the new sun symbols which mean that in a few places (although the written description is correct), I have used the wrong sun symbols on the topos – meaning that it says sun in the morning instead of the afternoon – or the other way round.So what this means is that potentially people will have wasted their time (and money on fuel) travelling to places at the wrong time of day – and not being able to climb. Which is obviously a bad thing to happen and a big mistake by me.
In summary, there are three crags where I have put the sun symbols the wrong way round. These have symbols indicating that there is sun in the morning when it should be in the afternoon. And there are a couple of sectors where this has happened too. As well as this there are a couple of spots where the sun symbols have been the same since Roca Verde 1 and it seems they have never been right and people have recently been in touch to tell me.
So, if you go to the pages below you can see a breakdown of the errors and change your book accordingly.
Go to the Sun Symbol error page
Obviously, this is very embarrassing for me to have made these mistakes and so in this in this Blog I wanted to take responsibility , to spread the word so people can update their books as well as well as to explain to some degree why these happened .
It’s ironic as I decided to change the symbols in the book as I felt that in the previous edition they were not clear enough. And I don’t want to offer lame excuses but part of the cause of these mistakes was that I was doing this the final weeks of doing the book – after the information and topos were done and the book was laid out. It was at this point that I tore my calf muscle something which two doctors assured me was nothing serious; but, after a few days my leg swelled up, I was in a lot of pain so I had to take strong painkillers and it was really uncomfortable and difficult to work at my computer.
Then, after a couple of weeks like this and working very long hours on the book, instead of getting better I got worse and I suffered a pulmonary embolism and was taken into hospital. This was something I had never heard of and only afterwards realised the seriousness. What had happened was that the calf tear had formed a series of blood clots, which, over the weeks I was trying to rest my leg (like I was told), went up to my lungs and blocked the arteries – and without a bit a luck and my wife having some medical background I could easily have died.
In retrospect, (and everything is easier with hindsight), I should have delayed the book a few weeks to recover from the hospital and give myself time to make more checks. But, I had put myself under a lot of pressure with the early sales of the book, as well as booking a printing date in advance, which I felt I couldn’t miss. And, with everything that had happened, I wasn’t really thinking clearly so I just carried on – which as it turns out meant that these errors crept through. And although it seems silly it’s this last period when you check over the book again and again and again where you catch the stupid errors that you don’t see the first, second or even the third time you revise it.
And a part of this is that when you are changing so many symbols across nearly 300 topos you start to become ‘blind’ to what the symbol means and which way the arrow is facing. And part of this was that I was so ill in the period when I was doing it. And I suppose the analogy I’d make is in some ways it’s a bit like when you repeat a words over and over again they start to lose their meaning…
Then, afterwards when I noticed there were some errors on a few of the routes numbering (and quickly added stickers to correct these) I was still ‘blind’ to the sun symbols being wrong in a few places, which is why I didn’t pick up on it straightaway. And it was only as some people e-mailed me about it that I started to notice the problems. So, like with the errors on the routes, I am going to add stickers to the rest of the books to correct these.
Anyway I wrote this not just to explain but to offer my sincere apologies for any inconvenience caused and to say I will make sure the next edition is as free of errors as possible!! And on top of this I owe further apologies firstly to anyone who has wasted their time travelling to one of these venues at the wrong time of day and then also to the equippers who trusted me with their ‘babies’ and I fucked up!!
Also, although correcting these errors with stickers has cost quite a bit of money I want to be clear that Roca Verde will continue to spend money buying bolts and donating to equippers in Asturias, Cantabria and Leon. So, as ever, some of your money from the book will go towards creating new routes to be enjoyed across the region. As of August 2021 I have spent around 6000€ from the Roca Verde bolt fund and the La Hermida book has raised over 4000€ for bolts and equipment.
Once again, I must say thanks for buying the book and I hope these errors haven’t inconvenienced you too much nor spoiled the book for you. And, if you know someone else who has the book, if you can send them to the website and if possible if you can share this Blog (or my Facebook post) to help me spread the word to everyone who has bought the book I would be grateful.
And my final thought is that although I am unhappy at having write this Blog, with all that has happened, I am happy to be here to write it. The last few months have been difficult mentally and physically but I am slowly getting back to climbing (you may have noticed my Instagram has been quite empty recently J) by doing some easy bouldering at my local Rocodromo and belaying my wife on her projects. I am hoping to be able to get on rock soon and should be recognisable as the fat guy with the ugly compression socks, on routes that don’t get my heartrate or breathing up too much!!
Once again apologies for the inconvenience and see you on the crag…
Mergullo – PDF – Asturias Centro
Mergullo es una zona pequeña justo a las afueras de Oviedo, Asturias cerca de la “Senda Verde” – este PDF te da toda la información sobre las vías, los croquis y cómo llegar al la escuela.
Mergullo is a small venue that overlooks the ‘Senda Verde’ just outside Oviedo, Asturias – this PDF gives you all the information about the routes, a full colour topo and how to get to the crag.
Haz click aqui para ver un mapa / Click here for a map to the parking
Quirós by drone – a visual guide to the ‘Queen of crags’
Set in a spectacular location, Quirós is unquestionably one of the best crags in the Roca Verde guidebook with a wealth of climbing across the grades on over twenty separate sectors. Historically important in the evolution of climbing in the Cordillera Cantábrica, its development goes back to the 60s and it is home to the first Asturian 8a. However, Quirós is not stuck in the past; it’s a vibrant, and very popular venue which is cared for by a dedicated crew of climbers including those from the refugio. Most of the sectors have been re-equipped with new bolts and chains and there has been plenty of new routing even in recent years.
Quirós is difficult to summarise due to the amount of climbing but several things stand out. Most prominent is the superb limestone, which, even after more than 40 years has hardly polished; then there is the variety, and although the climbing tends towards slabs or wall climbing, with fantastic examples of both, there are tufas, overhangs and even roofs! Add in a brilliant mix of multi-pitch and single pitch routes and the fact that a lot of the single pitches are of a good length and it’s easy to see why it’s a great destination.
Finally, Quirós is also very much an ‘everyman’ crag with the majority of the routes skewed towards the mid-grade climber as well as plenty for beginners and some superb, harder testpieces too.
Like Teverga many of the greatest Asturian climbers, as well as others, have left their mark at Quirós. Again the following list is probably not perfect but hopefully covers a lot of the main people: Eduardo Velasco, Francisco Blanco, Tino González, Claudio Sánchez, Javier López, Mariluz Santacruz, José Manuel Suarez, Nacho Orviz, Carlos Vásquez, José A Margolles, Plácido Suárez, José M Fernandez, Kike Oltra, Anselmo Menéndez, J Carreras, Jesús Martín, Roberto Magdalena.
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