Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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You are here: Home / Archives for rock climbing asturias

Rumenes – the best tufas in Roca Verde??

August 11, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

An amazing venue and the best ‘tufa’ climbing in Asturias. The walls and routes at Rumenes are simply phenomenal and amply demonstrate the potential in this valley. The upper crag for the most part is literally tufa-strewn and provides a series of long, stamina testpieces.

Rumenes is probably  the most popular area in the Desfiladero – especially now there’s a good guide – and it was interesting to see people there from across Europe. Chatting to an Austrian team they were very impressed with the area (and the guide)…!

Austrian visitor becomes part of the spectacular scenery of Rumenes on Satanismo en el Alpinismo 7a+
Austrian visitor becomes part of the spectacular scenery of Rumenes on Satanismo en el Alpinismo 7a+

Shade arrives at Rumenes about 2pm but we arrived late at around  5pm after a long day at chilling out and bathing at the enormous beach of San Vicente about 30 minutes away (good tip). Already at the crag were a bunch of friends of ours – all ex-pats, some living in France some in Spain. The stamina legend that is Mike Owen was working the incredible stamina pitch of Síndrome de Stendhal, a super long 7c+ while his wife Elaine patiently nursed a very sore finger and belayed.

Mike Owen Sindrome de Stendhal 7c+
Mike Owen Sindrome de Stendhal 7c+

As we chatted to the Brits a French couple arrived and we realised it was a couple we’d seen at Teverga a few days before. They were enjoying their visit to Asturias and set about sending a few classics: Rumenes power al vino, 7a+, and Invocando de Onan, 7a one of the most ‘tufariest’ routes at this very ‘tufary’ crag!!

As I watched and snapped away I realised how burned I had got at the beach and my keeness to climbed waned…however, watching Marek Cincio from Poland absolutely fight his way up the 38 metre pitch of El día del arquero, 7c,  got me inspired. A brilliant effort he nearly fell several times before topping out on one of the best pitches there…

El dia del arquero, 7c. 38 metres of pure pump!!
Marek Cincio on El dia del arquero, 7c. 38 metres of pure pump!!

Our day eventually started about 6.30 and I warmed up on my favourite, La Tufa, 6b a great little route. However, after a bright start things went rapidly downhill as Mary started to feel a bit ‘sunstrokey’ and my pink flesh was feeling the pinch squeezed into my harness. An abortive attempt on a couple of routes failed and we slunk off down to La Cuadrona bar (another top tip) to be refreshed and revived by Chucho!!

All’s well that ends well and we ended the night chatting away to friends we hadn’t seen for a while and vowing next time to use a bit more sunblock!!

 

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, Cantabria, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, desfiladero de La Hermida, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, northern Spain, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, Rumenes, spanish climbing, sport climbing, tufa climbing

Teverga – Entecampos delivers as ever…

August 5, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

We were slightly worse for wear after the ‘bonitada’ (tuna festival) in the village of Aciera (just under Quirós). As ever Spanish hospitality was fantastic so after about 4pm the next few hours were taken up with a proper siesta (2 hours sleep). After that we managed to get back in the camper van and drive the 10 short minutes from Quirós to park up at a busy Teverga.

Men and grils...doesn´t change the world over... The next morning the parking  was, as usual, buzzing and there were a lot of climbers milling around ready to go…although as usual in Spain loads of them didn’t make a move particularly quickly.  So after a quick coffee in the always friendly Bar Sobia we decided on Entecampos – almost the closest sector and still with plenty to do; even though we´d been there loads.

Mary sends the first pitch of Nirvana 6b...
Mary sends the first pitch of Nirvana 6b…

Starting on Nirvana 6b we enjoyed the cool fresh air after the previous days storms and marvelled how the crag was completely dry even after the near wash out of the Saturday.  I then jumped on Diablo 6c, the short version and got a shock as it seemed hard than I remembered; fingery and intrictae it would be easy to fall of this neat little route.
For a change we the moved to the top of the sector: always empty yet with some of the best routes around. I had done Tijeruca 250 7a/+ before but the quality once again impressed. 35 metres, 16 bolts and a gently ‘leading you on’ feeling culminating in a pretty tricky move high on the route.

A very foreshortened view of the route...
A very foreshortened view of the route…

Mary did well on a top rope and my arms seemed as though they recovered / warmed up so I picked a route I’d wanted to do for ages – El último flote 7a+/b. Another long route, this time 28 metres, the start had always put me off – a decidedly thin looking tufa/groove which led to the steep roof and the superb looking tufa groove above.

The very thin and tricky initial groove of El último flote 7a+/b
The very thin and tricky initial groove of El último flote 7a+/b

Well the groove was a grim as it looked, super thin and a bit dirty I slapped for the finishing jug of that section very, very relieved!! Motoring through the roof I felt Ok but at the top of the tufa strewn groove the pump hit and form then it was ‘sh%t or bust’ to the top. Crawling higher and higher I though I was going to make it but confronted with the last move my arms failed and a desperate lunge for the top failed….

Shit or bust...bust!!
Shit or bust…bust!!

Lowering off i was both happy I’d got so close but pissed off that this was the first 7a+ i’d fallen off across the whole of Entecampos!

Still a great day out and as ever Entecampos delivers!!

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Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: Asturias, climbing, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, entecampos, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, guide book, northern Spain, roca verde, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga

Niall Grimes reviews Roca Verde climbing…

August 1, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

My memories of Asturias are strong: long, sandy surf beaches populated by locals; rolling green hills not ten miles from the coast; wide open, quiet countryside with a ruralness reminiscent of quieter parts of Provence; drinking strong cider in cider-bars in quiet country towns. And being on the wrong route on a fabulous sport crag.

Asturias is the coastal province on the northern coast of Spain. Think ‘left of France’. It’s a big holiday destination for French and Spaniards, although little known outside these two countries. While this may be true from a tourism point of view, it’s an undisputable fact when it comes to climbing. Well perhaps this is about to change.

Roca Verde is a new guidebook from British ex-pat Richie Patterson. Richie has been living and climbing in the region now for eight years and has dedicated the past few to bringing information on the local crags together into one volume. As is often the way in Spain, some of these crags were covered in small, area specific guides, and some never recorded before. The result is a book which throws a whole new climbing destination onto the table for rock-hungry Spainophiles to get their teeth in to.

It looks amazing. The action shots reveal the blockbusting quality limestone that we have come to demand of Spain – steep walls, overhangs, tufas, orange-and-blue streaks – these are all in evidence here. The routes look cool and well featured and the photos – mostly Richie’s own – make me want to be there. I must point out one thing here: the author has allowed himself the indulgence of putting an okay shot of himself on the front cover, something that hasn’t happened since Andy Pollitt’s day. But we’ll overlook that for now.

+Gema Lanza climbing in the amazing Desfiladero de la Hermida, 222 kb
Gema Lanza climbing in the amazing Desfiladero de la Hermida
UKC Gear, 15 Jul 2014
© Richie Patterson

One thing that turns me on about the photos is the background. There’s more green around than we have come to expect from Spanish climbing settings. Trees and grass attest to the area’s higher rainfall when compared to the Costa Blanca, but all that dust down on the east side does my head in after a while. I’ll take the odd shower, especially since there are plenty of crags in this book that are weatherproof.

There’s a huge amount of rock in these pages. As well as Asturias it covers the neighbouring regions of Cantabria and León combining to nearly 3,000 routes from 2s and 3s right up to tediously-hard 9as. It seems best, in general, in spring and autumn, although lots of the crags I looked at were goers in summer and winter too.

The book itself seems to work very well. It is functional, fact and number heavy, as is the way with continental sport guides. Maps aren’t beautiful, but who cares. Out of curiosity I picked a few at random and compared them to Google Earth and they all seemed spot on. Scales would be handy, all the same. Topos are excellent, taken in great light, and serve to showcase crags really well.

One last point I had to broach with the author, was what relationship Richie had with locals. To my relief it turned out to be a constructive one. Locals were a big help and in the production and have received the guide well, perhaps helped by the fact that Richie actually lives there. This impression is helped by the fact that, going by the names at least, the people in the action photos are locals. In addition to this, Richie has pledged some of the profits from the book towards local bolt funds. I imagine that goes a long way to making locals happy.

Niall Grimes (or Grimer) is a fixture on the UK Climbing scene, publishes climbing books for a living and is welcome to visit any time!!

Bovedas in Teverga features 6b slabs and 7b+ tufas!!
Bovedas in Teverga features 6b slabs and 7b+ tufas!!

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Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, guide, guide book, niall grimes, northern Spain, Picos de Europa, roca verde climbing review, roca verde review, rock climbing asturias, s, spanish climbing, sport climbing, tourist tips

Sun sea and rock – Cuevas del Mar, re-equipped and ready…

July 31, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Sometimes in summer it’s hard to choose between the beach and the rock. The call of the waves and a day chilling out is difficult to ignore, especially as the temperatures climb.

Luckily there’s few places in Asturias where you can do both: and on Tuesday in the company of my brother and his family on their first trip to Asturias, we called in at Cuevas del Mar.   Five minutes off the motorway between Llanes and Ribadesella this is not only a beuatiful beach but thanks to a hardworking local team has been turned into a very popular climbing spot.

IMG_2708The bay of Cuevas on a sunny day…

Recently re-equipped with stainless steel bolts and resin bolts this has turned the area into a safe and fun venue with the emphasis on easier grades and some great beginners routes.

One of the most popular routes Aficion y desorden 6a+...
One of the most popular routes Aficion y desorden 6a+…

Starting on Afición y desorden 6a+, we moved swiftly on to the very tricky route, HonorINOX 6c, two routes to the left which features rounded, almost offwidth climbing!! Not as bad as it sounds it was a bit trickier in the midday heat!!

Then it was the kids turn, and one of the great things about Cuevas is the amount of routes for beginners meaning you can brings friends along and let them have a go. So my brother and his three girls all got roped in (excuse the pun) into trying climbing.

Georgia Patterson on La Central V
Georgia Patterson on La Central V

However, there’s not just easy stuff at Cuevas and I ended up climbing with a couple of guys from León who were trying the classic tufa of Chochitos a la mar 7b+. This short but sharp route takes a very steep line and is a much sought after little tick. Jorge managed it but I managed to blow after the crux; blaming skin, thin and heat, hot!!

Jorge on the very steep Chochitos a la mar, 7b+
Jorge on the very steep Chochitos a la mar, 7b+

Another great things about Cuevas are the endless posibilities for new routing on the amazing sea cliffs nearby. A trip out in a canoe confirmed as much and with a slightly bigger platform underneath than I thought we will be going back pretty soon to have a play.

P1010039-Sea-Cliff

Cuevas del Mar can be found by exiting at junction 312 from the A8 motorway, heading into the town of Nueva and following signs to the beach.

Once again we have to thank the guys from Llanes for the great job equpping and you can see more here:
https://www.facebook.com/EscalarenCuevasdelMar?ref=br_rs

 

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Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: beach climbing, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, cuevas del mar, escalada asturias, escalada llanes, escalada roca verde, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, tourist tips

Cerro corona….a crag with a view!

March 11, 2014 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Wow…The hottest day of the year, a very unusual March day of 25 degrees, and I’m sweating my way up the 40 minute walk-in to Cerro corona. The imposing butress overlooks the town of Carrena in the east of Asturias and is one of those places you look at, say ‘wow’ yet never seem to get round to going to.

IMG_0339 V2

We’d planned this day for a while and we got lucky as although it’s  hot the light is amazing and as this shot from the valley opposite shows even the moon wants to get a suntan.

Cerro corona is the crag on the left and as you can see the walk in is steep and tree covered and long. It’s left me a bit drained – and maybe that’s why i get so pumped on the warm up. This long and involved 6b,  Fistro de diedros, is 26 metres of technical grooves and hard-to-see holds on perfect rock.

The sun beats down as I look for a spot to take some photos from. I finally find a place up a tree and we get to work. In the full sun the route looks tricky but also looks amazing set against the backdrop of the Picos with Picu Uriellu standing out behind.

First go I don’t get the light right but the climber doesn’t get the sequence either and so half an hour later I’m back up the tree. This time he sends and so do I  and we have our shot for the guide, epitomising the amazing climbing and magificent scenery encountered climbing in the Oriente of Asturias.

Both baked, though him more than me, we sit in the shade for half an hour until it’s my turn. Luckily I send first go and we pack up, job done and head down…only to be confronted by a final treat, the Picos ‘in full effect’ staring us in the face as we descend!

IMG_0472 v2

 

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Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: escalada asturias, escalada roca verde, picu urriellu, richie patterson, roca verde, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing

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Latest Blog Posts

  • Roca Verde 3A – ya disponible…. June 25, 2022
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rocaverdeclimb

Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 25062022 A pesar Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 25062022 A pesar de la lluvia anoche me parece que Quirós esta menos afectada que Teverga: aún hay bastantes cosas secas en Teverga hay más tramos de chorreras y tal mojadas. En general muy buen día sin un calor exagerado.
Overall not a bad day and despite last night's rain Quirós is looking pretty sweet although Teverga has suffered a bit more especially the tufas. Decent cragging day.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion @casa_quiros #klettern #desnivel #escalar #quiros
Buenas noticias. Hace unos meses he colaborado con Buenas noticias. Hace unos meses he colaborado con los equipadores de Pechón, un acantilado maraviloso en Cantabria en el rio de Tino menor. La escuela es muy popular porque no solo son viás fantasticas en un entorno magnifico pero porque tambien tiene sombra y puede ser fresco por las tarde 😜 Pero porque esta al lado de mar pensamos que sera mejor poner tensores quimicos que aguantaran mucho mas tiempo. Entonces compramos tensores quimicos tipo marino de alta calidad con dinero del fondo de chapas de Roca Verde. Y las buenas noticias son que en los ultimas semana has terminado casi todo el trabajo para dejat la escuela esta mas seguro que nunca. Y los protaganistas del trabajo eran el indefatigable Jose Garrido, el dueno de la tienda de montana K2 Aventura en Torrelavega http://www.kadosaventura.com/ que ha abierto bastante pepinos allí y Sergio Torio  https://altiusaventura.com/ la guia de montana quien ha abierto muchas vias por la zona. 
Entonces mil gracias a ellos y si necesitas material de escalada o una guia de montaña piensas en ellos que apoyan la escalada (sin beneficios) en tu region y dar el trabajo a ellos… Y tambien, si compras Roca Verde puedes estar seguro de que una parte de tu dinero se destinará a proporcionar material para aquellas personas que hacen el trabajo duro agregando nuevas líneas en las regiones.
Great news, After a sustained perio of work by two of the most industrious locals Sergio Torio and José Garrido and a bunch of A4, marine special, chemical bolts provided by Roca Verde the sea cliff of Pechón has been overhauled to make it safer for longer and make sure that as a sea cliff it’s in the best condition possible. Remember when you buy Roca Verde some of that money always goes to re’equiping and working with the locals.
Photo: Benjamin Ruiz en Marinero Smith, 7a Foto: José Garrido @k2aventuratorrelavega 
#rockclimbing #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain
Acabamos de lanzar Roca Verde 3A con el patrocinad Acabamos de lanzar Roca Verde 3A con el patrocinador del libro, una tienda de montaña de referencia en Asturias @ludoaventura Hace casi 8 años cuando empecé de comprar material para compartir, José, el jefe, era la primera persona que me ayudó y sé que ha ayudado otros con material y apoyo durante muchos años – un buen ejemplo de como una tienda puede formar parte integral de la comunidad. Si no conoces la tienda merece la pena mucho una visita para recibir un asesoramiento experto de gente que conoce bien las montañas, el esquí y la escalada. 
Roca Verde 3A es la nueva versión de Roca Verde 3 que se publicó en 2021. Debido a la gran demanda, Roca Verde 3 casi se agotó en poco más de un año, por lo que Roca Verde 3A es una versión reimpresa, pero con algunas pequeñas actualizaciones y correcciones de algunos errores que aparecían (la mayoría ya corregidos con pegatinas) en Roca Verde 3. Por lo que es importante señalar que si tienes Roca Verde 3 no hace falta comprar Roca Verde 3A ya que la mayoría de las actualizaciones son menores y solo contiene dos nuevos códigos QR para  descargar un par de sectores ya publicados en la página web. 
Una vez más gracias a José y sus compañeros y, a todos vosotros, Nos vemos en las escuelas. ¡A muerte!
#climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 19062022 Despué Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 19062022 Después de una noche de tormentas fuertes y lluvia el día ha empezado mucho más fresco - ahora mismo solo 22 grados - entonces si aguanta así debe ser más on menos perfecto para la escalada aún que habrá unas cosas mojadas.
Very stormy night but fresh today and only 22° so if it carries on like this should be a good climbing day.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion @casa_quiros #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós Calor, kalima y Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós Calor, kalima y chubascos. Dia super raro entonces no se que va a pasar. Había una tormenta gigante anoche pero hoy por la mañana pensé que ha pasado el malo pero de repente goteando y vientos fuertes. Igual va a pasar pronto y se puede escalar sin problema. De todos modos bochorno.
Really odd day, after a really big storm last night I thought it was OK thus morning but suddenly its rainy with high winds. So it could be OK or could storm again. ☔🤔😂 In any case hit and sweaty...
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #meteo #weather #asturias #spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion
Próximamente, el evento más importante del año Próximamente, el evento más importante del año y muy recomendable: un finde para escalar, beber y bailar en Teverga. Pero el orden de los actividades será una decision tuya 😆
Muchas gracias al  Grupo de Escalada Aguja de Sobia @grupoagujasobia no solo para este evento pero todo el trabajo que hacen en el concejo para mejorar la escalada. Y merece la pena mucho recordar que si te haces socio del club casi todo el dinero va a comprar material y tal para abrir vias nuevas o requipar. Y gracias a todos lo colaboradores porque sin ellos no habria premios del sorteo tan chulos...😉😉
Coming up soon,  the return of the brilliant Encuentro de Escalada in Teverga, Asturias. This is fantasic weekend to climb, drink and dance the night away - and not necessarily in that order!!! Thanks to the Grupo de Escalado Aguja de Sobia for their work as ever not only for the encuentro but their work making Teverga one of the best climbing areas in Spain. And thanks to all the people who've colaborated with the event to make it an amazing evening.
@casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde @turismoasturias @teverga_paraiso #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 13062022 Sigue l Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 13062022 Sigue la ola de calor...🙄😜😂 Pero en serio otro día de nubes bajas y niebla y ahora mismo 23° pero tampoco ya parece demasiado bochorno. Todavía hay bastante cosas secas y solo las chorreras quedan mojadas. Me parece que las nubes van a aguantar todo el día. En general muy buen día para escalar.
Another day of the Spanish heatwave 🙄🤣😂 but seriously overall a pretty good climbing day as its not too hot and the clouds/fog haven't lifted for the third day on the bounce. Not wet though and the crags are mainly dry apart from the tufas. #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar #apartamentorocaverde
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 260522 Sol y pá Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 260522 Sol y pájaros cantando quién pueden pedir más. Muy buen día después de un par de dias regulares pero casi todo seco a pesar de la lluvia. Stunner of a day after a couple of shitty days. #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 1052022 Felices Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 1052022 Felices fiestas. Muy buen día en Teverga y casi no hay nadie. Soleado pero con un viento fuerte entonces dentro de la sombra hace frío. Va secando todo pero después de la lluvia hace 5 días hay bastantes tramos mojados, sobre todo las chorreras.
Stunning day but although it's sunny there's a strong wind so it's cold in the shade. Everything is drying off after the rain last week  but still quite a few wet patches, especially the tufas.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #meteo #weather #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias
♥️♥️♥️♥️. @climbatcenters ♥️♥️♥️♥️. @climbatcenters
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