Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Twitter
  • YouTube
  • Roca Verde
    • About Roca Verde
    • Where is Roca Verde?
    • Flights and Access 2023
    • Where to Stay
    • Weather
    • Valles del Trubia – Destination Guide
    • Desfiladero de La Hermida – Destination Guide
    • Sample Topos
    • Reviews
    • Bolt Fund
    • Advertisers
    • The Author
    • Contact Us
    • Useful Links
  • Buy Roca Verde 3A UK/EU
  • Comprar Roca Verde 3A
    • Roca Verde (Es)
    • Ejemplos de páginas
    • Fondo de Chapas
    • Localización
    • Sponsors
  • Comprar La Hermida 2 (Es)
    • Sobre La Hermida – los hechos y las cifras…
  • Buy La Hermida 2 – UK/EU
    • La Hermida guide – The facts and figures
  • RV3 Errata / Errors
    • Errores con los símbolos del sol
    • Errata – vías de Roca Verde 3
    • Errors with sun symbols
    • Errors – Routes in Roca Verde 3
  • Croquis Nuevos / New Topos
    • Restricciones por nidificación Mayo 2021 – IMPORTANTE
    • New Bird Bans – May 2021 – Please Read!
    • Mergullo – PDF – Asturias Centro
    • Navalones – PDF – Asturias Centro
    • Baiña – PDF Asturias Centro 02032022
    • Teverga Sectores – PDF – Valles de Trubia
    • Ordiales -PDF – Teverga
    • Villa de Sub – PDF – Valles de Trubia
    • Gamoniteiru – PDF – Asturias Valles de Trubia
    • Valle de Lago – PDF – Valles de Trubia
    • Següenco – PDF – Asturias Oriente
    • Trincherona_Fitu – PDF – Asturias Oriente
    • Amieva – PDF – Asturias Oriente
    • Cabañes – PDF – Sectores
    • La Cueta – PDF – León
    • Sena de Luna – PDF – Croquis/Topo
    • Genicera – PDF – León
    • León – Piedrasecha Sectores
    • León – Pedrosa
    • Cuevas Sectores – PDF – Valles de Aller
    • Pelúgano_Paredón_PDF – Valle de Aller
    • Panondres
    • Valdolayes – Valles del Trubia
  • Videos
  • Apartamento Roca Verde – Teverga
  • Roca Verde Apartment – Teverga
  • Spanish Property North
  • Blog
    • Grimer´s review of Roca Verde…
You are here: Home / Archives for climbing advice

Old Dogs New Tricks – Day 141 – Re-test – Back on the horse…

June 15, 2016 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Ok so in truth I’m 5 months in and probably nowhere near where I wanted to be. (see the challenge here)

And there are extenuating  circumstances: niggling injuries, bigger injuries, climbing trips, moving house (plus lots of visitors to said house), finishing my second book and possibly most of all an inability to not go climbing when surrounded by rock. But as i am finding out going climbing doesn’t necessarily make you a better climber – or at least it doesn’t bring you any closer to unrealistic goals!!

But as we all know ‘extenuating circumstances’ are just excuses wrapped in flowery prose. So as I sit in front of Tom’s house with the dread of a kid who hasn’t studied for an exam I know that I would mark myself ‘must do better’ even before I started.

Below the new Lattice board...
Below the new Lattice board…excuses have no currency here…

The test doesn’t budge, you can’t fool it, there’s no leeway, so I am hoping at least the training I have done – probably 25% of what Tom set me – helps. And I mutter the right things to him and Ollie before the test, and in truth I have found the whole thing great. The Lattice boys, Tom Randall and Ollie Torr, certainly did their side and provided me with a brilliant springboard. It’s not their fault if the client doesn’t dive deep enough.

I warm up, taking more time this time, knowing what’s coming. The test was brutal and I am trying to delay it a bit. However, the bonus now is that the new Lattice board is smoother, cleaner, more skin and finger friendly. I am getting psyched. I really want to climb on it.

First up is the hang test. Like the first time I can only do this on my right hand as my left is buggered so I strain and pull and managed 5 secs with 6.5kg then again with 4.5kg and fall a bit short with 3kg. I’m happy, last time I had one go in me.

Richie 1
Simple but effective. A 20mm edge a stopwatch and some weight!

Then to the main event, the Lattice board. Tom explains in more detail this time how he and Ollie derive the results – it’s clever but it washes over me as the adrenaline builds and I set off.

‘Stop’ I’m three moves in and Tom’s voice brings me to a halt.

‘Why are you using three fingers on your left Richie? You said you weren’t injured.’

I thought I’d got through, bullshitting that my baby finger (which is pretty bad) wasn’t too bad and in the intervening weeks since my FB post was basically OK.

‘I told you, you can’t do the test if you’re injured.’

‘But i need to know’ I protest ‘and I’m sure I can do it with three.’

Tom’s cross over from mate to ‘coach mode’ is quick and he brooks no nonsense. I plead to no avail but Ollie pipes up with an idea. They’ve got a work around. I do a 7:3 hang test. Possibly even more brutal but not going to stress my left hand and they can get some useful results from it.

Ollie counts me down as i hang, 7 seconds on my right, then rest 3 on my left. Repeat ad nauseum as they say. Even though it’s a destroyer and by the 6th ‘maximum’ I am screaming with pump I’m happy to be able to do something. Each block of ten hurts more but I grin and bear it and try to mentally ‘beat’ my previous time.

7 on 3 off....
7 on 3 off….

I collapse. With one super pumped arm and one unstressed baby finger. Job done.

Tom puzzles over how to get useful results....
Tom puzzles over how to get useful results….

Sitting round the table at Tom’s after crunching the numbers they show me my new graph. Set against the last one it makes for reasonable reading – more recovery, more stamina and in general a bit better. However, interestingly Tom’s take is most crucial – there is adaption, I am trainable!!!

He’s quite pleased. There’s something to work with and he goes into a huddle with Ollie.

‘OK Richie, the truth is we can’t condone climbing on an injury, so the only way to continue is to have time off and train weights rings and core. Ollie’s the man for this so meet him on Wed morning at ‘the Works’ and we’ll start again.’

Phew, the adventure continues…

 

 

Share this:

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
  • Tumblr
  • Reddit
  • Pinterest
  • Email

Filed Under: 8b+ Challenge Tagged With: 8b+ Challenge, climbing advice, Lattice Board, Old dogs new tricks, Ollie Torr, rock climbing, Tenaya, Tom Randall, training, training tips

Latest Blog Posts

  • Croquis Nuevos – Cueva del Mar / New Topos – Cueva del Mar June 10, 2023
  • Más materiales comprado – More gear bought April 21, 2023
  • Viás nuevas en Quirós / New routes in Quirós April 12, 2023
  • Nuevo Sector y más material donado… April 4, 2023
  • Perspectives – To lessons unlearned… March 23, 2023

rocaverdeclimb

Nunca me cansan las vias de Bóvedas, Teverga porq Nunca me cansan las vias de Bóvedas, Teverga porque siempre algo para aprender o un amigo para enseñar una escalada preciosa de chorreras y líneas brutales.
Never get tired of the routes at Bóvedas, Teverga because the climbing is so good and there's always someone new to show the off to. Mick on the first pitch of Quién tiene la broca se equivoca, 6b+.
@roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #spain #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion
Hay que sacar el calendario para recordar unos eve Hay que sacar el calendario para recordar unos eventos próximos y apuntarse pronto. Primero tienes el 4° Encuentro de la muyereda que empieza en Morcin, día 22 de Septiembre con unas charlas chulas y luego, con la inspiración a tope, la semana después hay el segundo maratón de escalada en Pelugano. Sigues @lamuyerada y @maraton_escalada_pelugano para más información. Y estoy muy contento apoyar ambos eventos con unos libros.
#rockclimbing #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #escaladaenroca #montanas #morcin #pelugano #lamuyerada #maraton
Después de unas semanas parado por el tema de un Después de unas semanas parado por el tema de un dedo tocado volvemos para retomarla cuerda con unos amigos en Muro Techo. Y a pesar de la lluvia todo seco y como siempre mejor con unas nubes. 😉
After a few weeks off with a bad finger it's nice to get out again at Muro Techo with a few mates.
📸 Simon Webster on Fisioterapia, 7a.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #klettern #desnivel #escalar @roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde
Cuando llegó la segunda edición de mi guía del Cuando llegó la segunda edición de mi guía del Desfiladero de la Hermida durante de la pandemia...
The second edition of my guide arrived during the pandemic...
#asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain #cantabria
Padre y hijo en la misma vía...uno con éxito el Padre y hijo en la misma vía...uno con éxito el otro no ¿puedes adivinar quien llego a la cadena? . Dos ángulos de una día típica de Pingalagua, Teverga, Paquito el vacilón, 7c+, pasos exigentes entre presas malas 🤣🤣
Dad and son on the same route, one succeeds the other doesn't, can you guess which? A typically brutal route from the sector Pingalagua in Teverga, Paquito el vacilón, 7c+, is a series of hard snatches between poor holds. 👍👍
@ibbertsonjosh 
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #paraisonatural @roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde
Josh Ibbertson @ibbertsonjosh probando El replican Josh Ibbertson @ibbertsonjosh probando El replicante, Pingalagua, Teverga.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #paraisonatural @roca_verde_rentals #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde #sportclimbing
Probando el Dron #4k #mavic #mini3pro Probando el Dron #4k #mavic #mini3pro
La Bocandia, un sitio un poco olvidado pero una ve La Bocandia, un sitio un poco olvidado pero una vez vuelves es obvio que es un sitio con mucho calidad y un montón de vias chulisimas. Muchas gracias a Diego, @diegonaranjorivas y Pablo @cervezaasgaya por su trabajo tremendo en abrir el sector. Un sector que merece la pena especialmente si escalas en los séptimos, entre 7a y 7c. Sombra después de las tres. 
📸 David Rothstein en Yernes 13, 6b...
La Bocandia, a bit forgotten but we'll worth a visit with a ton of great routes across the grades especially if you're climbing in the mid 7s. Shade after 3pm too. 
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #escalar #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #rocaverde3A #rocaverdeapartment #apartamentorocaverde @roca_verde_rentals
Hace un par de días en Sector Río, con condició Hace un par de días en Sector Río, con condiciónes perfectas, German @yasiesovuelvo encadenando Río bravo, 7c, sin problemas mientras lo grabó todo (con un teléfono 😱) Andrelo Hoc @andrelo.hoc En el video Germán hace la parte de arriba, (pillado por Cote @coteailva14) lo más dura de esta excelente vía: entonces si quieres hacerla a vista mejor que no mires el video 😉😉
Un placer conocer estos chavales tan motivados y muchas gracias por compartir el video. Espero que nos vemos pronto. 💪💪
Y si alguien quiere saber el teléfono es un Pixel 7 pro... 
(para ti @chileniia 😘)
Instagram post 18372026413029099 Instagram post 18372026413029099
Load More... Follow on Instagram

About us

Want to find out a bit more about the author of Roca Verde… click here

Our Mission

Have fun, climb a lot and make great guidebooks!

Recent Posts

  • Croquis Nuevos – Cueva del Mar / New Topos – Cueva del Mar
  • Más materiales comprado – More gear bought
  • Viás nuevas en Quirós / New routes in Quirós
  • Nuevo Sector y más material donado…

Search / Buscar

Copyright © 2023 · Outreach Pro on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in