Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Twitter
  • YouTube
  • Roca Verde
    • About Roca Verde
    • Where is Roca Verde?
    • Sample Topos
    • Reviews
    • Bolt Fund
    • Where to Stay
    • Advertisers
    • Weather
    • The Author
    • Contact Us
    • Useful Links
  • Buy Roca Verde 3 UK/EU
  • Comprar Roca Verde 3A
    • Roca Verde (Es)
    • Ejemplos de páginas
    • Fondo de Chapas
    • Localización
    • Sponsors
  • Comprar La Hermida 2 (Es)
    • Sobre La Hermida – los hechos y las cifras…
  • Buy La Hermida 2 – UK/EU
    • La Hermida guide – The facts and figures
  • RV3 Errata / Errors
    • Errores con los símbolos del sol
    • Errata – vías de Roca Verde 3
    • Errors with sun symbols
    • Errors – Routes in Roca Verde 3
  • Croquis Nuevos / New Topos
    • Restricciones por nidificación Mayo 2021 – IMPORTANTE
    • New Bird Bans – May 2021 – Please Read!
    • Mergullo – PDF – Asturias Centro
    • Navalones – PDF – Asturias Centro
    • Baiña – PDF Asturias Centro 02032022
    • Teverga Sectores – PDF – Valles de Trubia
    • Ordiales -PDF – Teverga
    • Villa de Sub – PDF – Valles de Trubia
    • Gamoniteiru – PDF – Asturias Valles de Trubia
    • Valle de Lago – PDF – Valles de Trubia
    • Següenco – PDF – Asturias Oriente
    • Trincherona_Fitu – PDF – Asturias Oriente
    • Amieva – PDF – Asturias Oriente
    • Cabañes – PDF – Sectores
    • La Cueta – PDF – León
    • Sena de Luna – PDF – Croquis/Topo
    • Genicera – PDF – León
    • León – Piedrasecha Sectores
    • León – Pedrosa
    • Cuevas Sectores – PDF – Valles de Aller
    • Pelúgano_Paredón_PDF – Valle de Aller
    • Panondres
  • Videos
  • Apartamento Roca Verde – Teverga
    • Roca Verde Apartment (Eng)
    • Apartamento Roca Verde (Es)
  • Casa Quirós Holiday Cottage
  • Blog
You are here: Home / Uncategorized / Old Dogs New Tricks – The 8b+ Challenge

Old Dogs New Tricks – The 8b+ Challenge

January 25, 2016 by Roca Verde Climbing 5 Comments

Sometimes you have to put yourself out there and accept that meandering along isn’t enough. So, turning 49, I have decided to give myself a challenge to go from my current grade, around 7b+, to do an 8b+ before I turn 50.  One year…

49th birthday presents - inspiration, application and recuperation..
49th birthday presents – inspiration, application and recuperation..

There are many reasons for this: the stark and sharp reminder of mortality of my mum passing away last year; the second (partly brought on by this) was the nagging feeling that first time round I never actually sent what I could have; and the third was a fascination to see whether new training methodology could help me to achieve my goals.

I am a climbing lifer, 38 years and counting, and during the 90’s was pretty good for a spell: I climbed E8 on grit, 8a+ in limestone (close to 8b+) and bouldered 8a.  Yet just I was setting myself for some harder stuff in 2001 I managed to tear my shoulder and spent 2.5 years out with injury and two operations. A spell away from climbing followed as the spectre of another injury (and a totally screwed arm as the doctor warned) and I moved to Spain to try surfing instead.

Old school training mode...
When we were strong…old school training more at the original School

Yet working in climbing I never escaped the scene and over the last 5 or 6 years am happy to call myself a true climber once again. Yet at the same time it’s clicked that my ‘golden-age’ is well behind me (my hardest grit route was 20 years ago) and I’ve realised that dining out on ‘once was’ after all these years makes me a has-been!!

Hence the challenge…

There are also lots of inspirations for me setting off on this and chief amongst these was working with the UK Para-Team during my last year at Wild Country. The dedication of people like Sianagh Gallagher, Dave Bowes, John Churcher and the rest of the team in dealing with the hand they’d been dealt made me look in the mirror…and not massive stoked on the ‘middle aged man who’d been cruising for a while’ that looked back I decided to get off the couch.

Fat 1
You too can have a body like mine…’looked in the mirror and saw a fat middle aged man looking back at me…’

Obviously there are others who have also made me look up; Ben Moon kicking ass again at only 3 months older than me, my old mate Dave Stainthorpe doing his hardest route at 64, Steve MacClure at 45 still pushing limits, Karin Magog quietly getting on and sending 8b, Tom Randall, Pete Whittaker and Jairo for their never-ending psyche, Caroline Ciavaldini’s determination and watching Shauna crush (obviously)…

I have a feeling this won’t be easy; and judging by the reactions of quite a few mates it seems other people don’t either. But if it were easy everyone would do it…goes the famous phrase.

6 kilos to go from there...
6 kilos to go from there…

Luckily, (through blackmail and more) I have access to some of the best climbers in the world to help me to do this and so over the next year I am going to follow their advice. Chief among these will be Tom Randall and I am hoping that with his direction and working efficiently will cut through the chaff and I can stay the course. I am very interested to see if structure and science to make up for a 49 year old injury prone body – whether structure can provide ‘shortcuts’.

Shit or bust...bust!!
Old, injury prone and fat…can training properly help…?

Because however well I climbed in the past, and though I trained really hard, my training was haphazard, had no structure, no method and certainly no ‘goals’. However, I was having fun (which GimmeKraft stick on top of their list) and there was a pleasure in cranking at the School in my heyday which I have possibly never bettered: but the question remains what could I have done if I had followed a plan?

Finally, to spice things up I am going to add a financial penalty – if I don’t make it I will pay £250 to the Para Climbing Team…and I wish to extend this possibility to everyone out there please sponsor me for a sum that you’ll pay to the Para Climbing Team if I make it…!!! (as safe a bet as you’ve ever made)…

The GB Para Team
The GB Para Team – as inspirational a bunch as you are likely to meet…

 

 

 

 

 

 

Share this:

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
  • Tumblr
  • Google
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Pinterest
  • Email

Filed Under: Uncategorized

Comments

  1. Mark Isaacson says

    January 27, 2016 at 8:15 am

    Awesome and the best of luck in realizing your goals. Is there a homepage or feed where we can watch and follow your progress?

    Reply
    • Roca Verde Climbing says

      February 3, 2016 at 3:31 pm

      Mark,
      very sorry for slow reply…I may set up a separate Blog but up until then I´ll be sharing on here and on my Facebook…Thanks for your kind words, I´ll the support I think!!!

      Reply

Trackbacks

  1. Happy, surprised and and psyched: Old Dogs New Tricks Day 5 #2 – The Results | Roca Verde Climbing says:
    January 31, 2016 at 10:29 pm

    […] See more here […]

    Reply
  2. Old Dogs New Tricks – Day 27 – The Training #1- Slow and steady… | Roca Verde Climbing says:
    February 21, 2016 at 9:41 am

    […] had made my challenge: to climb 8b+ before I turned 50 (giving me a year) and Tom Randall (maybe out of pity) had agreed to help. So I dutifully turned up […]

    Reply
  3. Old Dogs New Tricks – Day 141 – Re-test – Back on the horse… | Roca Verde Climbing says:
    June 15, 2016 at 8:31 am

    […] Ok so in truth I’m 5 months in and probably not near where I wanted to be. (see the challenge here) […]

    Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Latest Blog Posts

  • Roca Verde 3A – ya disponible…. June 25, 2022
  • Roca Verde Apartment – Now Open… June 25, 2022
  • Apartamento Roca Verde – Ya disponible… June 24, 2022
  • Croquis nuevos de Panondres / New Topos for Panondres June 22, 2022
  • Noticias Importantes Pechón requipado – Important News Pechón re-equiped June 20, 2022

rocaverdeclimb

Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 25062022 A pesar Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 25062022 A pesar de la lluvia anoche me parece que Quirós esta menos afectada que Teverga: aún hay bastantes cosas secas en Teverga hay más tramos de chorreras y tal mojadas. En general muy buen día sin un calor exagerado.
Overall not a bad day and despite last night's rain Quirós is looking pretty sweet although Teverga has suffered a bit more especially the tufas. Decent cragging day.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion @casa_quiros #klettern #desnivel #escalar #quiros
Buenas noticias. Hace unos meses he colaborado con Buenas noticias. Hace unos meses he colaborado con los equipadores de Pechón, un acantilado maraviloso en Cantabria en el rio de Tino menor. La escuela es muy popular porque no solo son viás fantasticas en un entorno magnifico pero porque tambien tiene sombra y puede ser fresco por las tarde 😜 Pero porque esta al lado de mar pensamos que sera mejor poner tensores quimicos que aguantaran mucho mas tiempo. Entonces compramos tensores quimicos tipo marino de alta calidad con dinero del fondo de chapas de Roca Verde. Y las buenas noticias son que en los ultimas semana has terminado casi todo el trabajo para dejat la escuela esta mas seguro que nunca. Y los protaganistas del trabajo eran el indefatigable Jose Garrido, el dueno de la tienda de montana K2 Aventura en Torrelavega http://www.kadosaventura.com/ que ha abierto bastante pepinos allí y Sergio Torio  https://altiusaventura.com/ la guia de montana quien ha abierto muchas vias por la zona. 
Entonces mil gracias a ellos y si necesitas material de escalada o una guia de montaña piensas en ellos que apoyan la escalada (sin beneficios) en tu region y dar el trabajo a ellos… Y tambien, si compras Roca Verde puedes estar seguro de que una parte de tu dinero se destinará a proporcionar material para aquellas personas que hacen el trabajo duro agregando nuevas líneas en las regiones.
Great news, After a sustained perio of work by two of the most industrious locals Sergio Torio and José Garrido and a bunch of A4, marine special, chemical bolts provided by Roca Verde the sea cliff of Pechón has been overhauled to make it safer for longer and make sure that as a sea cliff it’s in the best condition possible. Remember when you buy Roca Verde some of that money always goes to re’equiping and working with the locals.
Photo: Benjamin Ruiz en Marinero Smith, 7a Foto: José Garrido @k2aventuratorrelavega 
#rockclimbing #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain
Acabamos de lanzar Roca Verde 3A con el patrocinad Acabamos de lanzar Roca Verde 3A con el patrocinador del libro, una tienda de montaña de referencia en Asturias @ludoaventura Hace casi 8 años cuando empecé de comprar material para compartir, José, el jefe, era la primera persona que me ayudó y sé que ha ayudado otros con material y apoyo durante muchos años – un buen ejemplo de como una tienda puede formar parte integral de la comunidad. Si no conoces la tienda merece la pena mucho una visita para recibir un asesoramiento experto de gente que conoce bien las montañas, el esquí y la escalada. 
Roca Verde 3A es la nueva versión de Roca Verde 3 que se publicó en 2021. Debido a la gran demanda, Roca Verde 3 casi se agotó en poco más de un año, por lo que Roca Verde 3A es una versión reimpresa, pero con algunas pequeñas actualizaciones y correcciones de algunos errores que aparecían (la mayoría ya corregidos con pegatinas) en Roca Verde 3. Por lo que es importante señalar que si tienes Roca Verde 3 no hace falta comprar Roca Verde 3A ya que la mayoría de las actualizaciones son menores y solo contiene dos nuevos códigos QR para  descargar un par de sectores ya publicados en la página web. 
Una vez más gracias a José y sus compañeros y, a todos vosotros, Nos vemos en las escuelas. ¡A muerte!
#climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 19062022 Despué Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 19062022 Después de una noche de tormentas fuertes y lluvia el día ha empezado mucho más fresco - ahora mismo solo 22 grados - entonces si aguanta así debe ser más on menos perfecto para la escalada aún que habrá unas cosas mojadas.
Very stormy night but fresh today and only 22° so if it carries on like this should be a good climbing day.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion @casa_quiros #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós Calor, kalima y Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós Calor, kalima y chubascos. Dia super raro entonces no se que va a pasar. Había una tormenta gigante anoche pero hoy por la mañana pensé que ha pasado el malo pero de repente goteando y vientos fuertes. Igual va a pasar pronto y se puede escalar sin problema. De todos modos bochorno.
Really odd day, after a really big storm last night I thought it was OK thus morning but suddenly its rainy with high winds. So it could be OK or could storm again. ☔🤔😂 In any case hit and sweaty...
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #meteo #weather #asturias #spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion
Próximamente, el evento más importante del año Próximamente, el evento más importante del año y muy recomendable: un finde para escalar, beber y bailar en Teverga. Pero el orden de los actividades será una decision tuya 😆
Muchas gracias al  Grupo de Escalada Aguja de Sobia @grupoagujasobia no solo para este evento pero todo el trabajo que hacen en el concejo para mejorar la escalada. Y merece la pena mucho recordar que si te haces socio del club casi todo el dinero va a comprar material y tal para abrir vias nuevas o requipar. Y gracias a todos lo colaboradores porque sin ellos no habria premios del sorteo tan chulos...😉😉
Coming up soon,  the return of the brilliant Encuentro de Escalada in Teverga, Asturias. This is fantasic weekend to climb, drink and dance the night away - and not necessarily in that order!!! Thanks to the Grupo de Escalado Aguja de Sobia for their work as ever not only for the encuentro but their work making Teverga one of the best climbing areas in Spain. And thanks to all the people who've colaborated with the event to make it an amazing evening.
@casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde @turismoasturias @teverga_paraiso #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 13062022 Sigue l Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 13062022 Sigue la ola de calor...🙄😜😂 Pero en serio otro día de nubes bajas y niebla y ahora mismo 23° pero tampoco ya parece demasiado bochorno. Todavía hay bastante cosas secas y solo las chorreras quedan mojadas. Me parece que las nubes van a aguantar todo el día. En general muy buen día para escalar.
Another day of the Spanish heatwave 🙄🤣😂 but seriously overall a pretty good climbing day as its not too hot and the clouds/fog haven't lifted for the third day on the bounce. Not wet though and the crags are mainly dry apart from the tufas. #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar #apartamentorocaverde
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 260522 Sol y pá Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 260522 Sol y pájaros cantando quién pueden pedir más. Muy buen día después de un par de dias regulares pero casi todo seco a pesar de la lluvia. Stunner of a day after a couple of shitty days. #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbingpassion #climbtheworld #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 1052022 Felices Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 1052022 Felices fiestas. Muy buen día en Teverga y casi no hay nadie. Soleado pero con un viento fuerte entonces dentro de la sombra hace frío. Va secando todo pero después de la lluvia hace 5 días hay bastantes tramos mojados, sobre todo las chorreras.
Stunning day but although it's sunny there's a strong wind so it's cold in the shade. Everything is drying off after the rain last week  but still quite a few wet patches, especially the tufas.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #meteo #weather #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #escaladadeportiva #Spain @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias
♥️♥️♥️♥️. @climbatcenters ♥️♥️♥️♥️. @climbatcenters
Load More... Follow on Instagram

About us

Want to find out a bit more about the author of Roca Verde… click here

Our Mission

Have fun, climb a lot and make great guidebooks!

Recent Posts

  • Roca Verde 3A – ya disponible….
  • Roca Verde Apartment – Now Open…
  • Apartamento Roca Verde – Ya disponible…
  • Croquis nuevos de Panondres / New Topos for Panondres

Search / Buscar

Copyright © 2022 · Outreach Pro on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in

loading Cancel
Post was not sent - check your email addresses!
Email check failed, please try again
Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email.