Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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‘España escondida’ – Un viaje por Asturias…

February 13, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Aquí hay otro video corto sobre la escalada en Asturias, y aun se centra en el boulder también hay imagenes preciosas de la escalada deportiva en Teverga.

Sin embargo, como es invierno, este video es bastante relavente porque que es probablemente el mejor epoca para disfrutar los bulders que Asturias tiene para ofrecer. Hay un montón de lugares en Asturias y mucha gente bastante dedicada hacer bulder ; y muchos de los lugares, especialmente El Cantu, Teverga (3.50) y La Collada, Quiros (4.05) se secan rápidamente y están más pegajosos bajo el sol floco de invierno. Los lugares de playa como El Trankeru y Cabo Negro son más inconsistente pero se pueden encontrar condiciones secas frescas durante todo el año, dependiendo del viento y las mareas.

Puede obtener la ubicación de estos lugares y más en mi libro Roca Verde, disponible aquí …

Y para escalar en Teverga o Quiros, vale la pena echar un vistazo a nuestra casa de alquiler en Quiros …

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Filed Under: Blog, Bouldering, Bulder, Climbing, Escalada, escalada deportiva, Teverga Tagged With: Asturias, bulder, bulder Asturias, Cabo negro, casa quiros, Cordillera Cantabrica, el cantu, El Trankeru, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, hacer bulder, La Collada, Quiros, Teverga

James Pearson Guest Blog – Roca Verde Road Trip – Day 3 , 4 + 5 Valles de Trubia

January 26, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

“Sometimes our trips are meticulously planned and sometimes they just happen, often at the whim of others. Our Roca Verde road trip was the latter. Touching down at night in late October to Santander after a week of work in England we were looking forward to a climbing break – but we hadn’t a clue what to expect – all we knew was that we had seven days guided round the region.  

Our good friend Richie Patterson, the author of the first English language guide to a block of north-west Spain he’d christened Roca Verde, had invited us; but we didn’t really know where we were going or what the area encompassed. We’d actually not climbed in Spain for a while as we are always looking to go a little ‘off-piste’ and the crowds and polish of the major destinations, however good the climbing, don’t really appeal. So when Richie promised unpolished rock, empty crags and plenty of great routes to go at – we were intrigued enough to give it a go!”

­­­Day 3 – El Covachón – Teverga – Central Asturias

We woke up in the quaint, forgotten village of Aciera below Quirós, and enjoyed a slow Spanish style breakfast and coffee on the terrace of Richie’s guest house (www.casaquiros.co.uk), we flicked through the guide book. We decided on Teverga, perhaps the largest separate area, home to more than 25 sectors and nearly 500 routes of every style.  Richie suggested the super steep cave of El Covachon, as a good friend of his would be there, trying his project.

If the cave looks steep in the guide, it’s nothing to how it looks in real life!  The lip of the roof is actually lower than the apex of the cave, meaning you are actually climbing downwards for the last few meters.  As seems to be the norm in this place, a beautiful view down the valley and onto the town is reward for anyone brave enough to come climbing here.  El Covachón is one of the more hard core venues in the guide, with routes only beginning at 7a+, but if you’re climbing these grades is well worth a visit.

 

Day 4 – Quirós – Central Asturias

It wasn’t by chance that Richie’s guesthouse was located in Quirós.  The hills around the village are covered in rock, and we soon discovered that Quirós was the first ‘big’ crag of Asturias and has been climbed on since the 60’s!  The majority of routes are off-vertical long wall climbs, fitting to the climbing style of the time.  Even the eccentric Brit John Redhead made his mark by establishing Placa John, the first 7a of the region; but it wasn’t until 1987 that Fran Blanco moved away from the slabs to take on one a short steep roof, giving Asturias its first 8a in the form of Rompedor. Always psyched to add a bit of history to the agenda we headed up to check it out.  The crags of Quirós are only a short distance from the village, and walking up from the house the beauty of the area and the attractiveness of the situation was continually evident. Overlooking a lake and at the bottom of an amazingly verdant valley Quirós is now considered an everyman crag, with over 300 routes, most of which are below 7a.

 

Rompedor was a great little climb, and nothing at all like what we had expected.  A boulder problem in the sky would be the best way to describe it, not at all like the other harder routes we had climbed in the region.  Its easy to understand why, as at the time of tiptoeing up vertical walls, people really didn’t know if roofs like this were even possible.  It’s logical to start with a small challenge, a few moves of overhanging terrain to test the water, and slowly move on from there.  As much as these routes can seem strange to us in an age of 50m long overhanging pump-fests, we should not forget that they were in fact the beginning of it all.

Having said all that, Quirós is really best for its stunning wall climbs.  La Amarilla is one of the better known sectors, with top quality, 35m long slabs on immaculate white and blue rock. Que la fuerza te accompañe 7b, and Cada loco con su tema, 6c,7a are worth a particular mention, and really showcase what climbing in Quirós is all about.

Day 5 – More Bóvedas – Teverga …!!

Teverga was just too good to spend only one day, so on day 5 of our trip, both skin and muscles sore, but psyche incredibly high, We found ourselves under just another tufa filled cave, and just another selection of incredible 5* routes.  Bóvedas, in two parts is literally the central part of the Teverga massif, and is a jam packed collection of great looking sectors: Bóvedas, Pared Negra, El Canal, Pingalagua are all as good as each other, yet cover a huge variety in climbing styles.  From 3 bolt 8bs to 40 metre 6bs, and crimpy off vertical walls, to pumpy overhanging tufas, La Cueva ticks all the boxes.

James on Dragon de Comorr, 7b+(7c) Bovedas.

We chose La Cueva, which was home to a bunch of the best mid grade 6’s I have ever climbed.  From the belay of these routes, it is possible to continue up through the roof and steep wall above, where things suddenly get a lot more serious! Dragón de Comorr, is a 7b+ extension to an already amazing 6c, that follows a single, eye-catching tufa all the way to a technical and balancy finish on the slab way above.  An amazing route, and perhaps a little tough for the grade… after all, it was the only route I fell off all week!

You can check out James and Caro’s adventures in northern Spain in a short series of movies they made about the place: their Roca Verde Road Trip.
They’re all on Epic TV so here’s some links
Part 1 – https://youtu.be/n5bil2d1Br4
Part 2 – https://youtu.be/yq37n0zej9A
Part 3 – https://youtu.be/HQ6RheBVFog

 

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Filed Under: Climbing, escalada deportiva, sports climbing Tagged With: Asturias, Caroline Ciavaldini, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, james pearson, northern Spain, Quiros, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing

Bird Bans are starting – from 15th Jan

January 17, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

January is the time when climbing bans start as birds begin to nest – so in this table you can see the dates and sites affected.

Right now there are only restrictions in Teverga with the golden eagle in Peña Sobia and Peña Llana. But very soon, in March, there will be a bunch more affected areas and then we always have to keep in mind that we are not the only animals who like and need the cliffs!

I have all these bans marked appropriately in the guidebook but just in case you don’t have it then you can see them here…

 

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Filed Under: Climbing, sports climbing Tagged With: Asturias, bird bans, birds, Climbing in Teverga, Cordillera Cantabrica, Quiros, roca verde climbing, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga, tourist tips, travel

Old Dogs New Tricks – Catch-Up Blog #1 Otinar – Training week 3 / Overall week 4 (Feb 22nd – 27th)

May 23, 2016 by Roca Verde Climbing 4 Comments

Ok so here’s the first of my ‘retro-blogs’ as a catch up to where I am at with ‘Old Dogs New Tricks’…

Otinar – Training week 3 / Overall week 4 (Feb 22nd – 27th)

Ok so we left our hero (me btw) on the horns of a dilemma – a late, light session on my board the day before I was going away had left me with a very sore strained arm (or worse).  So the question was; to travel the 700km with the injury or to cry off and stay at home doing a  bunch of stuff that you need to get on with:  we were due to move house and I needed to finish my new book, so the temptation was pretty high to stay.

However, on the other hand I’d been climbing for 5 years with Jairo and never been on a trip with him…could I let him down at the last minute…??? Fuck!!

So I went. And we headed down towards Jaen – a short 700km or 9 hour drive – in Jairo’s motorhome. My arm was sore, strained and un-relentingly not good so I spent the time on the back watching movies being pissed off and massaging with my ‘Arm-Aid’ which seemed to help…

The team...Jairo, Juan and me...
The team…Jairo, Juan and me…

What made it doubly bad is that we were heading for Otinar and I’d been super-psyched for the trip. This is a ‘new’ venue which had a bit of a reputation, a mega steep cave with a bunch of 7s and 8s and nothing easier than 7a+ across the crag. With air cold, crisp and spring-like the 5 minute walk-in was get everyone breathing hard and there was a tangible excitement in the air. There were 6 of us and I’d decided to be cameraman for the day to rest an arm that seemed no better – a sore ‘pulley’ from the palm to the elbow.

EL COLETA 8a
The crag was very, very, very steep…Jairo on La Coleta, 8a,

On arrival the crag was decidedly well, brutal, not to put too fine a   point on it. It was really steep, even the warm ups were really steep and the hard routes were super steep. It made my arm twinge just looking.  However, the guys dived right in and set about mauling the warm/ups…then set about the main course.

Not the most aesthetic of venues set mainly above a huge goat pen the routes were very steep and it was inspiring as Miguel first then Jairo set about some of the most overhanging lines. My palms were sweating as Jairo gamely battled his way up, via a biiiiiig pump, a 7c which overhung 10m in it’s 23m length…I decided to make the most of the day and get some photos as I’d brought my ‘proper’ camera but after 4 shots the battery went – things weren’t going my way..

Day 3 started better and although my arm felt really sore I was determined to give it a go…then came a migraine so I went back to the van to lie down. Three days in and I hadn’t touched rock…after a sleep and a rest i felt a bit better and so wandered off and stretched in a ruined barn…the glamour!!

My 2nd 'rest' day...a bit of stretching...
My 2nd ‘rest’ day…a bit of stretching…

Day 4 – The dark side – After more ‘arm-aid’ i was ready to climb – and climb I did, like a big fat spanner. Warming up on the 6b+ part of very steep 7c (the easiest stretch of rock by far) I was nervous, static and slow. Feeling every day of my age I felt terrible, heavy and dulled – and somehow disappointed that the three weeks of training I’d done hadn’t turned me into a worldbeater. Then I pulled stupidly, forlornly onto the 7c, and ‘dogged’ the moves…it felt too hard, I felt too old and my frustration at my injury boiled over into cursing (not been known before) as I slumped on the rope. After I rest I then found myself falling off the next easiest route – a 7b which took an unlikely line – and a dark cloud descended!! Bad day at the office…

The bright side – However, I took solace watching an incredible French couple: him a 60 year old ‘lean, mean climbing machine’ and her a female version. They’d been there a few days and their modus operandi was clear and precise, he’d try and onsight and if he fell, work the route perfectly and send first RP. Then she’d go next following his instructions to normally execute a perfect ‘beta-flash’…now none of this would be of interest except that they both looked as old as the hills, they were doing this on routes up to 8a+ and they climbed so efficiently that it was a joy to watch. Very much a lesson in clever climbing and what you can do despite a few years…

55 year old French woman takes on silly steep 8a route and wins...
55 year old French woman takes on silly steep 8a route and wins…

Day 5 – Felt better. The clouds and cobwebs of day 4 had gone and I made a determined attempt to warm-up at the crag…And after some stretching a bit of use of Jairo’s mobile fingerboard and some rubber bands I got back on the warm-up – which, to my astonishment actually felt like a warm-up! Psyched I did it again and then climbed on into the 7c – carefully, testing all the holds for maximum efficiency and best body position – trying to channel Jerry Moffat’s matra ‘work it hard – send it easy’.

A redpoint ensued but cold hands put paid to anything and the rest afterwards only really made me more nervous. It was burly 7c and the likelyhood was I wouldn’t do it…however, as I launched into the crux sequence – a series of (for me) long snatchy moves off good holds – it just about clicked and despite a few, almost costly, moments of hesitation I slapped, stupidly pumped, onto the last jug. I’d got a send!! (something I’ll come back to in later Blogs).

http://rocaverdeclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Facebook-richie.patterson.731.mp4

I chilled for a bit and enjoyed watching Jairo send his 40 metre 8a with numb fingers and a lot of work, amazing effort.

The last night became more fun, I’d done summat so could relax a bit and as the G&T’s went down and the night grew longer the injury faded from my mind and the whole trip became better!

Ticks/Points of interest: 1 x 7c for 1500km of driving. And a typical ‘me’ route, bouldery and very cruxy and short…fun but nothing gained apart from the knowledge I hadn’t improved after 3 weeks. Watching the French couple showed that there’s life in old dogs and that clever outweighs strong!!

Lessons learned: Mates are more important than climbing and if you go you will get something done…and even if you don’t, go for a run, take photos, belay your friends and enjoy seeing somewhere new…oh and make sure your battery is charged…and use your mates for motivation and if you are injured don’t bring them down by moaning…

Score – 1 x 7c…Weight – 72.5kg

Did you know your mates laugh at you if you warm up at the crag...
Did you know your mates laugh at you if you warm up at the crag…



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Filed Under: 8b+ Challenge Tagged With: 8b+ Challenge, casa quiros, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, Jaen, northern Spain, Old dogs new tricks, Otinar, Quiros, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga

Roca Verde Edición 2 – Más detalles…

April 22, 2016 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

La primera edición de la guía de la Cordillera Cantábrica Roca Verde se vendió en tan solo 18 meses, razón por la que acabamos de publicar una segunda edición, completamente actualizada y revisada. Esta nueva versión incluye innumerables sectores y vías de escalada de las regiones de Asturias, Cantabria y León, en el noroeste de España, un destino perfecto para el verano.

La guia nueva de Roca Verde...
La guia nueva de Roca Verde…

Gracias al trabajo conjunto con muchos de los grupos más activos y equipadores de cada zona, hemos podido incluir seis sectores publicados por primera vez, así como nuevos sectores de zonas ya existentes, y un par de sectores clásicos no recogidos en la primera edición. Roca Verde contiene ahora más de 50 zonas de escalada, con un total de 239 sectores y 500 vías más (un centenar corresponden a la zona de Teverga), lo cual supone la asombrosa cantidad de casi 3500 vías de escalada.

Todas las reseñas han sido revisadas y actualizadas, con la novedad de que los grados de dificultad se distinguen por colores, lo cual facilita la elección del sector con una rápida ojeada. Se han añadido más fotos de excelente calidad, de las mejores vías y escaladores locales, tomadas por algunos de los mejores fotógrafos de la región en su afán de capturar la esencia de cada zona. Esta nueva edición también ofrece una visión general de la escalada en bloque en Asturias, con indicaciones sobre la localización y las reseñas de algunos de los mejores lugares para su práctica.

Hay muchos búlders guapos probar en Asturias...
Hay muchos búlders guapos probar en Asturias…

Por último (y tal vez por primera vez en una guía de escalada), hay códigos QR que enlazan con vídeos de vías y problemas de escalada de la región, con el fin de ofrecer una visión más profunda del ambiente en cada zona, así como un anticipo de la sensación de “sudoración en las manos”, incluso antes de visitarlas.

Gran miguelini

En resumen: más de 50 zonas, 239 sectores y casi 3500 vías de escalada, una síntesis de la escalada en bloque, enlaces a vídeos, y más de 200 fotos a todo color, que convierten a esta guía en la más vendida, imprescindible para la “región de la Roca Verde”.

La 2ª edición de Roca Verde puede adquirirse directamente  aqui al mismo precio que el anterior, 30€ así como en comercios especializados.

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Filed Under: Climbing Tagged With: Asturias, Cantabria, casa quiros, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, La Hermida, Leon, northern Spain, Quiros, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga, tourist tips

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rocaverdeclimb

Instagram post 2340800312708699958_1398545702 Conocí nuevos amigos hoy en el monte! #serpientes Made some new friends while out hiking today 😮 #snakesalive
Instagram post 2340681506791535402_1398545702 Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós  27062020 Día muy bueno. No hace demasiado calor pero después de la lluvia siguen muchas vías mojadas. Igual un día para hacer placas...
Great day but lots wet after the heavy rain. Slab day. #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica @casa_quiros
Instagram post 2338667219273363300_1398545702 Meteo Actualizado - Granizo gigantismo y más agua  la vez que nunca he visto en mi vida!!
Weather Update - Giant Hailstones and more water than I've ever seen fall in a 10 minute burst!!!
#tiempo #weather #asturias #rocaverde #paraisonatural #meteo @casa_quiros
Instagram post 2338502249520574559_1398545702 Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 24062020 Otro día espectacular pero con esta ola de calor será otro día caluroso. Buscas sombra y bebes mucho (agua o cerveza @cervezaasgaya me da igual)🍻🍻 😜😜👍
Brilliant day but super hot. Go somewhere shady and drink a lot - waters probably best but beer may do the trick. 🍻🍻😂😂
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #meteo #weather #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Instagram post 2336407444217037434_1398545702 Noticias Importantes sobre el acceso y aproximación de la escuela de Llombera, León 
Buenas a tod@s, siguiendo recomendacciones de la Junta de Castilla y León, queda prohibido escalar o pasar por debajo del sector pricipal de Llombera, espero que seamos conscientes y respetemos, hasta finales de agosto está restriccion, se puede acceder por el camino del respiradero de la mina, o bordeando por el sector Pioneros, es un poco más largo pero igual de efectivo, espero que tod@s seamos conscientes y respetemos la restricción, la foto croquis espero que os sirva de referencia, las otras dos fotos es del Camino que lleva al respiradero, se sigue recto y luego se puede ganar altura hasta la pared, un saludo.
Instagram post 2335650082610917227_1398545702 Árbol...
Instagram post 2335649673129451203_1398545702 Libertad...
Instagram post 2335611712765459457_1398545702 Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 2062020 Perfecto. Vete a escalar!!! Sin más...👍
Perfect day. Go climbing, that's it, that's the message.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #spain
Instagram post 2334882550564018588_1398545702 Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós  19062020 Que buen día. Más o menos perfecto para escalar, correr hace bici: cualquier cosa!! No demasiado calor ya y hay viento fresco.
Perfect climbing day. Cool fresh and sunny.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing
Instagram post 2332716913019586026_1398545702 Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 16062020 Nubes, niebla, lluvia anoche y goteando ahora mismo. No me parece como junio pero es lo que hay. Hoy sitios protegidos o nada...18° a las 12...
Clouds mist, rain last night and spitting now so less like June, than December but hey ho...18° at midday!!! #teverga #meteo #weather #asturias #rocaverde @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram @tenayaclimbing #climbtheworld @beta_climbing @turismoasturias #escalada #escaladaenroca #climbingrocks #escaladadeportiva
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