Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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You are here: Home / Archives for desfiladero de La Hermida

Blog de Entrenamiento #1 – Volver a lo básico

March 4, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

A veces es extraño lo que aprendes.

Pequeñas cosas que tienen un gran efecto. Y cuando hice mi año de entrenamiento con el equipo Lattice hace unos años, una de las cosas clave que aprendí fue bastante básica, pero nunca se me había ocurrido. Tom lo expresó así: “No cuenta nada el paso más duro puedes hacer, sino el paso más difícil que puede seguir haciendo, o dicho de otra manera, ¿qué puedes hacer cuando estas petado?”

Como dije básico. Pero nunca antes se había hundido realmente. Especialmente en los días en que yo era súper fuerte (hacia bulder de 8ª) pero cuando hice quince movimientos en una vía caería y no sabía por qué. Esta vez lo consigue. Y cuando tenia los resultados de mi prueba y me dijeron que no era un escalador “resistente a la resistencia”, es decir, podía ponerme en forma, se apoderó. ¡La pepita encajada en una costura!

Tom siguió esto mostrándome mi plan de entrenamiento, que durante los primeros meses parecía tener muy pocas “cosas divertidas” y parecía consistir en un montón de aburrido, núcleo sencillo y mucho algo llamado ‘continuidad’. Vio mi mirada decepcionada y continuó
‘Richie, todos necesitan una base sobre la cual construir, algo sobre lo que apilar el resto del trabajo. Y en Lattice llamamos a esa base continuidad. Y esa es una parte clave para llegar a la tierra prometida “.

Y eso fue lo segundo que aprendí; no puedes construir una casa sin cimientos. Que la pirámide que conduce al máximo rendimiento comienza con una base amplia. La carrera larga y lenta; cincuenta vueltas de arrastre frontal; 50 km a 100 vatios en bicicleta. Parecía ser lo mismo en muchos deportes. Fueron los días largos y lentos lo que permitió que sucedieran los días difíciles.

Entonces, después de una operación y una serie de lesiones, vuelvo al punto de partida, así que he vuelto al plan; y el plan dicta volver a lo básico. Así que ayer hice una serie de ejercicios de hombro con pesas muy ligeras dirigidos por un chico en un canal de ejercicios de YouTube que parecía un robot y hoy hice “Continuidad”.

Y lo chupé y fui feliz. Porque estoy en el camino de regreso. Y voy a tomarlo con calma esta vez. Y no quiero echarlas cosas a perder. Después de perder dos años por una caída que hizo daño a la muñeca, no me queda mucho tiempo.

Y si quieres saber cómo se ve este entrenamiento mágico de ‘continuidad’ en una pared muy pequeña con solo un área pequeña que no muy apto (porque la mayoridad desplome demasiado) aquí está … ¡¡afortunadamente no en tiempo real !!!!!!! !!

PD: Creo que ni Lattice ni nadie  se lo llama ‘Continuidad’ nada mas  …

PPS Todavía no entiendo los modernos y novedosos ‘sistemas de energía’, etc., etc., así que no tengo idea de cómo lo llamarías en realidad.

PPPS Todavía es muy recomendable …

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Filed Under: Blog, Climbing, Training, Uncategorized Tagged With: Asturias, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, desfiladero de La Hermida, escalada asturias, escalada roca verde, northern Spain, Old dogs new tricks, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga, Tom Randall

James Pearson Guest Blog – Roca Verde Road Trip – Day 1 + 2 Eastern Asturias

January 22, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

“Sometimes our trips are meticulously planned and sometimes they just happen, often at the whim of others. Our Roca Verde road trip was the latter. Touching down at night in late October to Santander after a week of work in England we were looking forward to a climbing break – but we hadn’t a clue what to expect – all we knew was that we had seven days guided round the region.  

Our good friend Richie Patterson, the author of the first English language guide to a block of north-west Spain he’d christened Roca Verde, had invited us; but we didn’t really know where we were going or what the area encompassed. We’d actually not climbed in Spain for a while as we are always looking to go a little ‘off-piste’ as the crowds and polish of the major destinations,  don’t really appeal. So when Richie promised unpolished rock, empty crags and plenty of great routes – we were intrigued enough to give it a go!”  James Pearson

Day 1 – La Hermida – Cantabria

Arriving in the dark, never gives a sense of the surroundings so it was a big surprise to wake up in an enormous, steep-sided valley. Not only because it was filled with huge crags but also because it was incredibly green, tree-lined and not at all ‘Spanish’ looking.

The Desfiladero de La Hermida marks the Eastern border of the mountains of the Picos de Europa and is the one of the major tourist routes into the heart of the mountains. Our hotel, La Cuadrona, a beautifully restored traditional building, was a bit further north, at the centre of the climbing in the village of La Hermida itself. Known as the climber’s bar the owners were incredibly friendly, used to dealing with foreigners and knew to provide the sort of ‘mountainous’ breakfast that it turned out we were going to need for the day!

How big?!? Carcalosa is really impressive…

I say that because Richie had arranged a bit of a treat, a visit with one of the busiest local equippers, Alberto Hontavilla, to his latest work in progress. A stack of exceptional routes in the huge cave of Carcalosa. Imposing and tufa-strewn it’s also situated on the ‘wrong’ side of the river and perched above a slope that necessitates a 45 minute hike. Braving the icy water we crossed and made our way up the hillside, marveling at the dedication needed to even create the path, never mind to slog with all the gear needed for equipping.  Secretly we wondered if this was not the beginning of just another of Richie’s ‘brilliant ideas’, yet as we pulled on the last of the fixed ropes and the full extent of the cave came into view, we realised it was totally worth it.  A deep, seemingly bottomless hole flanked on either side by steep, tufa covered walls.  Not at all the type of limestone we were expecting!

Alberto Hontavilla on his project

All in all there are around 50 routes from 6a and up to 8b, with many projects still to climb. Slap bang in the middle of the main wall is Dimensión Paralela 7c+ and the “tram line” tufas just have to be climbed.  At 40 meters long, it is an endurance marathon, and doesn’t give up anything until just before the chain.  At the end of the day we couldn’t have been more pleasantly surprised!  Perfect rock, brilliant routes, friendly locals, and superb views.  Luckily for us, this feeling would become more and more common as the week went on!

Caroline Ciavaldini enjoying Dimension Paralella, 7c+

Day 2 – Poo de Cabrales – Eastern Asturias

A second giant breakfast eased our discovery that rain had fallen in the night – you don’t get to be green and lush without a little water. Our intention had been to head straight to Poo de Cabrales, one of the most well known sport-climbing venues around the Picos. But, worried it may be raining there too, Richie suggested a quick-hit at the roadside of Urdon just a few of km from the hotel, to do a couple of routes while the weather settled.   He swore Urdón had a climate of its own and was ‘almost always-dry’, yet with the roads still soaking and the mist hanging low, I wasn’t sure I believed him.  Happily the walk in this time was short, around one minute, and there were no rivers to cross. We climbed a pair of excellent wall climbs, 6c and 7c, on solid orange and grey rock, that despite the falling rain were in perfect condition.

Heading out of the valley from it became pretty obvious that it had been a localised shower as clear blue skies greeted us at the end of the half-hour drive to Arenas de Cabrales, a short hop from the crag. Grabbing some bread, chorizo and a chunk of the famously fierce Cabrales blue cheese we were soon in T shirts and marvelling at the views of Picu Urriellu from the car-park below Poo.

Caroline on Infiltrados, 7a, one of the amazing tufas which cover sector Chorerras, Poo de Cabrales

As we arrived at the crag it was immediately obvious why Poo was so popular. A ten-minute hike leads up to a compact little crag, with several sectors ranging from slabby to steep. Set against the dramatic backdrop of the magnificent Picos, Poo is one of the most visually pleasing crags of the area, and the climbing’s not half bad either.  There are too many good routes to choose a favourite, and on national pride alone I should really mention Englishmen, 7c, opened in 1991 by our friends Nick Dixon and Andy Popp.  However the most memorable route of the day, if only for the never-ending discussion of the grade, had to be Lord Byron, an intense and athletic 7c(+) at the Horóscopo sector.

You can check out James and Caro’s adventures in northern Spain in a short series of movies they made about the place: their Roca Verde Road Trip.
They’re all on Epic TV so here’s some links
Part 1 – https://youtu.be/n5bil2d1Br4
Part 2 – https://youtu.be/yq37n0zej9A
Part 3 – https://youtu.be/HQ6RheBVFog

 

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Filed Under: Climbing, climbing guide book, La Hermida, sports climbing Tagged With: Asturias, Cantabria, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, desfiladero de La Hermida, La Hermida, spanish climbing, sport climbing, travel, tufa climbing

La Hermida guide review – Mike Owen

May 2, 2018 by Roca Verde Climbing 1 Comment

It’s out! The guidebook to Spain’s best-kept secret and one of the best summer climbing venues in Europe. Had enough of going to the usual places and you fancy a change? Fed up of the crowds, the heat and the polished routes? Look no further, the crags in this book have got everything you’re looking for.

El Desfiladero de la Hermida covers the climbing centred around the village of La Hermida, which is located in the gorge called El Desfiladero de la Hermida that runs north/south through the eastern end of the picturesque Picos de Europa, from Panes to Potes, on the border between Cantabria and Asturias.

El valle de La Hermida - The La hermida valley...
El valle de La Hermida – The La hermida valley…

This is a really beautiful part of Spain; known as “green Spain” due to the abundance of vegetation as a result of the maritime climate, the scenery is simply stunning. The topography is classic karst limestone. The gorge has very steep sides that are riddled with rocky gullies that lead up to high craggy peaks with breath taking views. There are crags everywhere and the potential for more development is obvious. It gets even better; the summer temperatures are typically in the mid-twenties, which make such a pleasant change compared to many parts in Europe. In fact a normal season here extends from late spring (as the tufas dry out) until early winter, when the first of the rain which keeps the valleys so green arrives. Though the addition of many quick-drying, walls and slabs outside the main valley means that there should be something to get on all year round.

The upper crag has so many great wall climbs, this time it's Orujo de Liébana, 7c
The upper crag has so many great wall climbs, this time it’s Orujo de Liébana, 7c

There is plenty to do on rest days; just a 30 minute drive away is the coast with the possibility of surfing the Atlantic swell. Alternatively, there are numerous paths that can take you up into the heart of the Picos de Europa or you can take the cable car up to the most famous mountain in the area, the Naranjo de Bulnes. If all of the above activities sound too strenuous, you may just prefer to go and relax at the climbers bar in La Hermida (La Cuadrono) and sample Chucho and Angela’s wonderful hospitality. However, if you’re staying in Potes, try the climbers bar (La Reunion) and sample some of their home made beers or enjoy a nice cheap coffee (don’t forget this is Spain, so prices are always very reasonable).

Tanya Meredith on the final slap of Karim Abdul Jabbar, 7b+,
Tanya Meredith on the final slap of Karim Abdul Jabbar, 7b+,

For years there have been rumours of great climbing in this part of Northern Spain but information was always scarce. Then three years ago Richie Patterson published the excellent Roca Verde, a selective topo covering some of the crags in Cantabria, Asturias and Leon. As a result the area started to receive more attention, justifiably so. Due to this new found popularity Richie, in collaboration with the local Cantabrian climbers, has put this definitive guidebook together, specifically covering all of the new (or previously hidden) crags in the La Hermida valley, and what a guidebook it is.

The first thing you will notice when you flick through La Desfiladero de la Hermida is the attention to detail that has been put into the presentation and that it is written in Spanish and English. The introduction is concise, yet has all the necessary information you need, including a very clear general map, where to stay and what the topo symbols mean. There is an interesting section on ‘Geography and Wildlife’ as well as a very important section on ‘Access and Etiquette’.

Mike Owen in action at Rumenes...
Mike Owen in action at Rumenes…

Each crag has its own introduction, including the style of climbing, orientation regarding the sun, walk in times and access map with GPS coordinates. The topos are very accurately drawn on clear colour photos and printed on top quality paper. All pitch lengths are given. However there are no stars. The authors don’t want climbers to be drawn towards particular routes, with the result that they become polished and end up with queues during busy periods, they want you to find out for yourself and have fun doing so. The action photos are some of the best I have seen in a climbing guide and really do give you that all important first impression; in other words they fire you up, your fingers start to sweat and you start mentally planning how to get there as soon as possible.

The valley is already quite well known for its amazing tufas at steep crags such as Rumenes and El Infierno. However, this is not just an area that suits climbers operating in the big numbers because what is not so well known, is the fact that there are also many crags that offer really enjoyable climbing at a more reasonable standard in equally impressive surroundings. In fact much of the new guide is taken up with crags with amenable grades that should allow mixed parties to enjoy the valley more; making a morning cranking on tufas followed by an afternoon on the slabs (or vice versa) a practical option!

The guide includes a total of 32 crags, of which 24 are published for the first time, including the jaw-dropping Cueva Carcalosa (which will soon become internationally important for those seeking long steep voyages in tufa paradise) and the long established, but nonetheless previously secret, Cicera (with its wealth of demanding crimpy climbing in the summer shade).  La Desfiladero de la Hermida is in A5 format, has 176 pages and almost 700 routes to choose from III+ to 8c+ and offers great value at £20. Please bear in mind that it is the only definitive guide and purchasing it will help contribute towards future equipping in the area. After you’ve been climbing, don’t forget to have a beer at La Cuadrona, followed by a swim in the hot springs up the road.

My advice: skip Ceuse this summer, buy this topo, book your ferry. Job done!

El Desfiladero de La Hermida is published by Roca Verde and available direct from www.rocaverdeclimbing.com

Gema Lanza, 7a, El Salmón
Gema Lanza, 7a, El Salmón

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Filed Under: Climbing, climbing guide book, escalada deportiva, La Hermida Tagged With: beach climbing, Cantabria, Cicera, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, desfiladero de La Hermida, escalada deportiva, northern Spain, Picos de Europa, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, tourist tips, tufa climbing

La Hermida guide in stores across northern Spain…

July 15, 2017 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

After a hectic week of deliveries – then re-deliveries after the books sold out – our new guidebook is available in a ton of shops and bars across the region. And as the first batch sold out so quickly so we’ve done a second visit and loaded the stores with copies.

A quick list of the stores with books in the La Hermida region is:
Santander – Eiger Sport
Torrelavega – K2 Aventura
La Hermida – La Cuadrona /  Andaras
Potes – Tienda Indiana / Bar La Reunion / Libreria Vela / Bustamante de Potes
Arenas de Cabrales – La Tienda Nueva / Cendon
Cangas de Onis – Tuñon – Libreria Imagen

Then further west – around Oviedo and the Valles de Trubia:
Gijón – Indoor Wall
Aviles – Gravity Climbing
Oviedo – D-Ruta / Oxigeno
Valles de Trubia – Bar Sobia, Entrago / Bar Aladino, San Martin / Club de Montana Aguja de Sobia, Entrago.

Or you can buy the book direct from our pages…

http://bit.ly/BuyLaHermida

La guiá contiene un montón de fotos nuevas muy chulas de la escalada del valle...The guidebook cover features two of the most prominent climbers of the area...
La guiá contiene un montón de fotos nuevas muy chulas de la escalada del valle…The guidebook cover features two of the most prominent climbers of the area…

 

 

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Filed Under: Climbing, climbing guide book, La Hermida, Uncategorized Tagged With: Cantabria, Cicera, Cordillera Cantabrica, desfiladero de La Hermida, escalada deportiva, northern Spain, Picos de Europa, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, spanish climbing, sport climbing, tufa climbing, where to buy La Hermida

Cicera – Crags of La Hermida #1

July 4, 2017 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

A world-class venue, and possibly the crag that everyone´s been waiting for more than any other, Cicera has a selection of brilliant climbs on perfect rock. Sitting opposite, and complementing almost perfectly the ludicrous tufas of Carcalosa, the main sector is only slightly overhanging making for technical and very pumpy wall climbing.

Carlos Cué, Plataforma, 7c, Cicera, una vía muy técnica de placa desplomada.
Carlos Cué, Plataforma, 7c, Cicera, una vía muy técnica de placa desplomada.

It’s a mix of grey and orange rock with good friction and mainly long or very long routes. For those climbing in the high 7s and 8s there’s an endless supply of testpieces and, unlike much of the valley, it’s a venue where finger strength and climbing ability take precedence over big arms!

Vistas impresionantes, con Carcalosa detras... Alex López, Ritmo caribeño, F: José Alberto Puente Great view of the angle of the crag: and you can see Carcalosa behind
Vistas impresionantes, con Carcalosa detras… Alex López,
Ritmo caribeño, F: José Alberto Puente Great view of the angle of the crag: and you can see Carcalosa behind

In addition, the lower crag provides more entertainment in it’s own style with grey almost ‘Verdon-like’ fingery slabs and some tough, shorter roofs.

Carlos Cué, Mar Negro, 7b+, Sector Abajo, Cicera. Placa técnica de fuerza de dedos...One of the brilliant wall climbs on the lower crag...
Carlos Cué, Mar Negro, 7b+, Sector Abajo, Cicera. Placa técnica de fuerza de dedos…One of the brilliant wall climbs on the lower crag…

The familiar theme is the lack of easier climbs but with such high-quality routes it’s easy to forgive.

Routes Summary
V+ – 6c+ = 4
7a – 7c+ = 28
8a – 8c+ = 23

Another view of the lower crag, this time a super cool 7a, Corbatas de Unquera.
Another view of the lower crag, this time a super cool 7a, Corbatas de Unquera.

Children: Fine for older children but quite a long walk in and steep underneath.

Season: Usefully, the upper crag is almost never in the sun so it’s great through the summer and can also get a good breeze in late afternoon. The lack of sun does mean it can be cold in late autumn and spring and once wet it does seep a bit and can take a while to dry – though there are plenty of routes which stay dry all year. Overall it’s a very reliable venue for good conditions.

The upper crag has so many great wall climbs, this time it's Orujo de Liébana, 7c
The upper crag has so many great wall climbs, this time it’s Orujo de Liébana, 7c

 

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Filed Under: Climbing, climbing guide book, Escalada, escalada deportiva, guía, La Hermida, Picos, sports climbing Tagged With: Alberto Hontavilla, Carlos Cue, Cicera, Cicera topos, Climbing at Cicera, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, desfiladero de La Hermida, escalada asturias, escalada roca verde, guide book, La Hermida, northern Spain, Picos de Europa, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, Spain, spanish climbing, sport climbing, tourist tips, tufa climbing

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