Roca Verde

Las mejores guías de Escalada Deportiva de la Cordillera Cantábrica. Sport climbing guides to north-west Spain: Asturias, Leon, Cantabria. Me contacten / Contact me: richie@rocaverdeclimbing.com

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James Pearson Guest Blog – Roca Verde Road Trip – Day 6 – Bouldering

January 30, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

“Sometimes our trips are meticulously planned and sometimes they just happen, often at the whim of others. Our Roca Verde road trip was the latter. Touching down at night in late October to Santander after a week of work in England we were looking forward to a climbing break – but we hadn’t a clue what to expect – all we knew was that we had seven days guided round the region.  

Our good friend Richie Patterson, the author of the first English language guide to a block of north-west Spain he’d christened Roca Verde, had invited us; but we didn’t really know where we were going or what the area encompassed. We’d actually not climbed in Spain for a while as we are always looking to go a little ‘off-piste’ and the crowds and polish of the major destinations, however good the climbing, don’t really appeal. So when Richie promised unpolished rock, empty crags and plenty of great routes to go at – we were intrigued enough to give it a go!”

Day 6 – Bouldering – El Gachu, El Cantu and Cabo Negro – Central Asturias

Although not perhaps the strong point of Asturias, Richie was keen for us to sample some of the bouldering, and he’d planned out one long, crazy day to take in all Asturias had to offer. Knowing me quite well I think he knew that I’d appreciate it a bit more than Caro, and promptly warned her that it would be somewhat of an acquired taste…English style!

We began the day at El Gachu, a hidden gem, tucked away on a hillside, halfway up the 1200m pass of San Lorenzo.  It’s a super steep wall of quartzite that reminded me heavily of the Bowderstone in the Lake District, with a load of hard problems up to 8b+, 50 meters long and overhanging in its entirety, the problems climbed really well, even if they were not the most inspiring of lines. The location however was a spectacular, isolated from the rest of the world as you look down on the Teverga spread out far below.

Caro on one of the super steep 7a+ boulders of El Gachu

Once again pushed for time, we hopped in the car and dropped back down to Teverga. El Cantu is a somewhat more typical bouldering area; a jumble of big limestone blocks on the slopes below the crags. With around 100 problems of all grades spread over a wide area, there are plenty of things to go at. El Cantu is superb, compact, grey limestone, which forms frustrating slopers in equal measure to tiny crimps.  One of my favourite problems from El Cantu was Houdini, a rather short, 5 move 8a, which ended with a spectacular sideways double dyno!  The easier problems are just as good, and brought with them something that limestone bouldering so often lacks – lines… After a few more problems across the various blocks we settled for lunch of fresh cooked empanada, a local treat of a flat bread filled with chorizo, and chilled out as the sun danced across the hillside opposite lighting up the sectors we’d climbed on previously.

Tired but happy we dozed in the car as Richie drove us North to the coast, to the last venue of the day, and the trip. Very much a coastal region, Asturian climbers had been exploring the cliffs and boulders next to the Atlantic for many years and found some impressive venues. Cabo Negro was one of the most famous and popular, a bunch of rough black boulders sat on a wide tidal ledge, just above the pounding sea. Facing west there were views of the port of Aviles and Richie swore it was perfectly placed to enjoy superb sunsets!

Walking down to Cabo Negro

Arriving at the boulders after a short walk along the cliff top path, it was atmospheric to say the least.  Substantial waves were crashing in, over the ledge, and sending plumes of spray 10 metres into the air. Sadly, this combination of wind and waves meant that much was too wet to climb, and we began to get a little nervous as we realised the tide was already on its way back in.

James on the classic 7a, waiting for the promised sunset on a cloudy day…

Then, whilst traversing the thinnest part of the ledge to check out the furthest boulders, I turned back as I heard a high-pitched scream and several choice French curse words. For a moment Caroline disappeared behind a huge wall of spay, luckily to re-appear a second or too later, although by now soaked to the skin! At this point we decided that discretion was the better part of valour, and that perhaps we should cut our visit short. I was reluctant to leave without trying a single problem, and so grabbed my boots to quickly play on a few of the drier boulders as Caro shivered semi-naked!!

A bit posed but we had to show the scale of the waves – the day was pretty frightening tbh!!

Day 7 – Homeward bound

Settling down on the plane and thinking about the week that had whizzed by, I thought back to Richie’s emphasis of the ‘difference’ we’d find in the north of Spain. This was Spain, but not as we had known it before: the crags were empty and unpolished, the climbing superb, and the ambience was like a snapshot of the rural past, all in the most spectacular, and very, green settings!

Caro had christened it ‘tufaland’ on day one as we marvelled at the amount of rock in La Hermida but the truth was that there seemed to be a bit of everything, especially in the west.  With Quirós and Teverga providing complementary and contrasting venues so close together, there are a ton of great routes across all grades and styles, enough for even the pickiest of climbers.

Although far too short, our trip had given us a taste of these “new” regions of Spain, and all they have to offer – and we hadn’t even made it to Leon (the remaining third of the Roca Verde guide) We left surprised, happy and content, knowing that Roca Verde was one part of Spain to which we cant wait to return.

Sunset at Casa Quiros on James and Caro’s last night!!

You can check out James and Caro’s adventures in northern Spain in a short series of movies they made about the place: their Roca Verde Road Trip.
They’re all on Epic TV so here’s some links
Part 1 – https://youtu.be/n5bil2d1Br4
Part 2 – https://youtu.be/yq37n0zej9A
Part 3 – https://youtu.be/HQ6RheBVFog

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Filed Under: Blog, Bouldering, Climbing, Escalada, escalada deportiva, Quiros, sports climbing, Teverga Tagged With: bouldering, bouldering videos, bulder, Cabo negro, Caroline Ciavaldini, Climbing in Teverga, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, el cantu, El gachu, escalada roca verde, james pearson, northern Spain, Picos de Europa, roca verde climbing, rock climbing, rock climbing asturias, spanish climbing, sport climbing, Teverga

Sitios con prohibiciones por nidificación – desde el 15 de enero!

January 17, 2020 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Prohibiciones de la escalada por nidificación

Enero es el tiempo cuando empiezan las prohibiciones de escalada por nidificación – entonces en esta tabla puedes ver las fechas importantes y los sitios afectados. Ahora mismo solo hay restricciones en Teverga con el águila real en Peña Sobia y Peña Llana – y encime de 700m. Pero muy pronto, en marzo, habrá más zonas afectadas y entonces siempre tenemos que tener en cuenta que no somos los únicos animales a quienes les gustan las peñas!

Tengo todas estas prohibiciones marcadas adecuadamente en la guía, pero en caso de que no la tenga, puede verlas aquí …

 

 

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Filed Under: Climbing, Escalada, escalada deportiva Tagged With: Asturias, Cantabria, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, nidificacion, pajaros, prohibiciones por nidificacion

Manzaneda Arnea actualizado – Manzaneda Arnea Reequipped 10012019

January 11, 2019 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Hola! Informamos de la restauración parcial del sector Arnea en la Manzaneda. Solo se restauraron las vías que lo necesitaban, en su totalidad las vías 1, 2, 6, 12, 15, 22 y de manera parcial la 4, 16, 18, 19, 20 y 21. Además se sustituyeron 4 descuelgues. A día de hoy quedan un par de chapas viejas `por quitar que en breve ya no estarán.
Si os queréis hacer socios de Asturvertical y colaborar en este tipo de acciones solo tenéis que escribir al correo asturvertical1992@gmail.com e ingresar 10€ en el número de cuenta que se os facilitará.Para finalizar, pues agradecer a la FEMPA, al AYTO. de Oviedo, a la tienda Ludoaventura y a todos y cada uno de los socios de Asturvertical por hacer posible estos trabajos.
Cómo no, en este sector en particular hay que agradecer a Juan López Mesa que fue sin duda el motor de esta obra.

Great news from Club Astur Vertical is that they’ve re-equipped a lot of the routes at the very good sector of Arnea, at the crag of Manzaneda. Thanks a lot to all of the people who took part and thanks to Club Astur Vertical for their strong work. Thanks alos to the outdoor shop Ludo Aventura in Gijon and to Fempa for their gear to help.

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Filed Under: Climbing, climbing guide book, Croquis, Escalada, escalada deportiva, guía, New Topos, Vias nuevas Tagged With: Asturias, climbing northern spain, Cordillera Cantabrica, croquis nuevos, escalada, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, Manzaneda, new routes, new topos, vias nuevas, |Arnea

Mergullo – Croquis completos

January 10, 2019 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Aquí puedes descargar los croquis para el pequeño sector de Mergullo, la escuela mas cerca de Oviedo que ninguna.

Mergullo es una zona pequeña justo a las afueras de Oviedo, cerca de la “Senda Verde”. Es la más cercana a Oviedo e incluso se puede ir en bici o caminando. No obstante, no es la más popular y, aunque hay buenas vías, la falta de afluencia sumada a su orientación y las dos enormes canteras cercanas hacen que las vías estén bastante sucias, lo cual hace difícil apreciarlas.

No habia espacio en el Roca Verde 2 para ponerlo pero aqui puedes descargarlo como PDF con todo la información necesitas como ; como llegar y mapas etc para disfrutarla!! Su ubicación en Googlemaps es:  43.325818, -5.906674 

Y recuerdas que puedes comprar Roca Verde 2 – el libro mas destacado y actualizado de la region – aqui Comprar Roca Verde

Mergullo PDF

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Filed Under: Croquis, Escalada, escalada deportiva, guía, Vias nuevas Tagged With: Asturias, Cordillera Cantabrica, Croquis de escalada, escalada, escalada acerca de oviedo, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada roca verde, Escuela de escalada Mergullo, mergullo, roca verde climbing

Vías nuevas Teverganas #3 – Sector Río

January 9, 2019 by Roca Verde Climbing Leave a Comment

Otro sector bastante grande e importante es el sector Río. Situado a lado del río es muy fácil y rápido para llegar, ver mapa. Ya muy popular este sector tiene sombra todo el día, incluso en pleno verano, y consiste de dos sectores. Uno es un muro vertical de 25/30 metros y el otro es una placa tumbada y bastante lisa de más o menos 20m. El muro tiene como 18 vías entre 6b+ y 8ª pero la mayoría son séptimos y casi todas son con estilo de regletas y pasos de dedos!!

Croquis de Sector Rio

La única cosa es que toda la roca no es de igual calidad que el resto de Teverga y hay tramos donde hay que escalar con un poco de cuidado. Mientras la placa tumbada es un estilo distinto muy exigente de dedos y pies…Sobre todo el sitio es muy apto en el verano porque no da el sol, en invierno hace demasiado frío!!

Javi Solares a vista en Río bravo, sector Río

Como siempre, el trabajo es de mucha gente. En vez de poner nombres individuales para cada sector es mejor dar las gracias de forma colectiva por su trabajo normalmente en varios lugares; Lolo, Miguelín, Berto, Hectorín, Moss, Mulero, Gali, Raúl, Josete, Jose Camino, Armando, Cesar, Junior, Pablo Martín, Tino, Javi López, Mariluz, Pablo, Diego, Dani, Anselmo, Richie, Javi Garzo, Brillan, Espolita y cualquiera que haya equipado…

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Filed Under: Escalada, escalada deportiva, guía, Vias nuevas Tagged With: Asturias, Climbing in Teverga, Cordillera Cantabrica, escalada asturias, escalada deportiva, escalada en Teverga, escalada roca verde, Teverga, vias nuevas

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Instagram post 2340800312708699958_1398545702 Conocí nuevos amigos hoy en el monte! #serpientes Made some new friends while out hiking today 😮 #snakesalive
Instagram post 2340681506791535402_1398545702 Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós  27062020 Día muy bueno. No hace demasiado calor pero después de la lluvia siguen muchas vías mojadas. Igual un día para hacer placas...
Great day but lots wet after the heavy rain. Slab day. #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica @casa_quiros
Instagram post 2338667219273363300_1398545702 Meteo Actualizado - Granizo gigantismo y más agua  la vez que nunca he visto en mi vida!!
Weather Update - Giant Hailstones and more water than I've ever seen fall in a 10 minute burst!!!
#tiempo #weather #asturias #rocaverde #paraisonatural #meteo @casa_quiros
Instagram post 2338502249520574559_1398545702 Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 24062020 Otro día espectacular pero con esta ola de calor será otro día caluroso. Buscas sombra y bebes mucho (agua o cerveza @cervezaasgaya me da igual)🍻🍻 😜😜👍
Brilliant day but super hot. Go somewhere shady and drink a lot - waters probably best but beer may do the trick. 🍻🍻😂😂
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #paraisonatural @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing @grupoagujasobia #asturias #rocaverde #meteo #weather #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar
Instagram post 2336407444217037434_1398545702 Noticias Importantes sobre el acceso y aproximación de la escuela de Llombera, León 
Buenas a tod@s, siguiendo recomendacciones de la Junta de Castilla y León, queda prohibido escalar o pasar por debajo del sector pricipal de Llombera, espero que seamos conscientes y respetemos, hasta finales de agosto está restriccion, se puede acceder por el camino del respiradero de la mina, o bordeando por el sector Pioneros, es un poco más largo pero igual de efectivo, espero que tod@s seamos conscientes y respetemos la restricción, la foto croquis espero que os sirva de referencia, las otras dos fotos es del Camino que lleva al respiradero, se sigue recto y luego se puede ganar altura hasta la pared, un saludo.
Instagram post 2335650082610917227_1398545702 Árbol...
Instagram post 2335649673129451203_1398545702 Libertad...
Instagram post 2335611712765459457_1398545702 Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 2062020 Perfecto. Vete a escalar!!! Sin más...👍
Perfect day. Go climbing, that's it, that's the message.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica #climbing_is_my_passion #klettern #desnivel #escalar #spain
Instagram post 2334882550564018588_1398545702 Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós  19062020 Que buen día. Más o menos perfecto para escalar, correr hace bici: cualquier cosa!! No demasiado calor ya y hay viento fresco.
Perfect climbing day. Cool fresh and sunny.
#rockclimbing #teverga #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #escaladaenroca #escaladadeportiva #asturias #rocaverde #weather #meteo @grupoagujasobia @teverga_paraiso @turismoasturias #cordilleracantabrica @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing
Instagram post 2332716913019586026_1398545702 Meteo / Weather Teverga y Quirós 16062020 Nubes, niebla, lluvia anoche y goteando ahora mismo. No me parece como junio pero es lo que hay. Hoy sitios protegidos o nada...18° a las 12...
Clouds mist, rain last night and spitting now so less like June, than December but hey ho...18° at midday!!! #teverga #meteo #weather #asturias #rocaverde @casa_quiros #climbinglife #sportclimbing #paraisonatural #climbing_pictures_of_instagram @tenayaclimbing #climbtheworld @beta_climbing @turismoasturias #escalada #escaladaenroca #climbingrocks #escaladadeportiva
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