Tag Archives: Rumenes

Caroline Ciavaldini gets stuck into Dimensiones Paralelas, 7c+, Carcalosa

La Hermida – A quick guide to the best of ‘tufaland’…

In our new guide to La Hermida we reveal a bunch of great new spots and many of them have one thing in common…

Brilliant tufas.

So much so, that after her visit Caroline Ciavaldini christened the area ‘tufaland’…and it’s true that for the addict of this type of climbing there’s tons to go at.

So I thought it’d be a nice idea to rate the crags in terms of their overall ‘tufaness’ – the old and the new crags – to give a hit-list of venues.

1. Carcalosa – Just for the scale of the left wall Carcalosa has to be number one. An amazing crag and a ton of tufas to get stuck into – maybe the highlight being Dimensiones Paralela, 7c+, the super-obvious ‘train line’ tufas on the right wall.

Caroline Ciavaldini gets stuck into Dimensiones Paralelas, 7c+, Carcalosa

Caroline Ciavaldini gets stuck into Dimensiones Paralelas, 7c+, Carcalosa

2. Rumenes – Even with the emergence of other crags this is still some of the best tufa climbing around – and the first time the top wall is seen nearly everyone gasps; some in shock and some in delight!!

3. El Infierno – Like a supercharged Rumenes this is a wall simply covered in tufas. There’s possibly less ‘easy routes’, with the grades starting at 7a and above but this is a great venue and has shade in the afternoon…

Alberto Hontavilla. Balambambu, 7c, El Infierno

Alberto Hontavilla. Balambambu, 7c, El Infierno

4. Estraguena – All the routes apart from one take tufas at some point and strangely for a tufa crag none of the routes seem that steep.  The routes have a good length and the grades are good for the ego and for onsighting too…

5. Cueva Hermida – Very good new venue – and the only downsides are that there are very few easy routes and that there’s not a huge amount either. A steep wall turns into a roof and the climbing is powerful and pumpy.

Tanya Meredith on the final slap of Karim Abdul Jabbar, 7b+,

Tanya Meredith on the final slap of Karim Abdul Jabbar, 7b+,

6. Cueva Corazón – Classic hardcore tufa/roof venue. Lots of top level challenges here in a superb atmospheric spot.

7. Pechón – Sea-side climbing with a good smattering of tufas thrown in. What could be better?

8. El Salmón – Not totally a tufa crag but the central section of the main wall has some really good, short mid-grade tufas and on the bottom wall there’s some steep, exciting routes too.

Gema Lanza, El Salmón

Gema Lanza, El Salmón

9. Cicera – Maybe known more for the wall-climbing rather than the tufas this still has plenty of impressive lines. Atlantis, Pacifis, and Veneno azul are all great.

10. Parelosa – Not all tufas but what there are have plenty to offer – possibly the best being Relatividad, 7c+. The whole crag needs a bit of traffic but it will be a popular hardcore venue…

11. El Lado Oscuro – Only a few tufa routes but of very high-quality and both Museo Coconut, 7c, and Gretaline, 8a+, are stunning.

Reini Wallmann, Gretaline, 8a+, F. José Alberto Puente

Reini Wallmann, Gretaline, 8a+, F. José Alberto Puente

You can buy our new guide here… http://bit.ly/BuyLaHermida

And you can watch our video of James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini in action at Carcalosa here:  http://bit.ly/RocaVerdeRoadTrip_1

 

Rumenes – the best tufas in Roca Verde??

An amazing venue and the best ‘tufa’ climbing in Asturias. The walls and routes at Rumenes are simply phenomenal and amply demonstrate the potential in this valley. The upper crag for the most part is literally tufa-strewn and provides a series of long, stamina testpieces.

Rumenes is probably  the most popular area in the Desfiladero – especially now there’s a good guide – and it was interesting to see people there from across Europe. Chatting to an Austrian team they were very impressed with the area (and the guide)…!

Austrian visitor becomes part of the spectacular scenery of Rumenes on Satanismo en el Alpinismo 7a+

Austrian visitor becomes part of the spectacular scenery of Rumenes on Satanismo en el Alpinismo 7a+

Shade arrives at Rumenes about 2pm but we arrived late at around  5pm after a long day at chilling out and bathing at the enormous beach of San Vicente about 30 minutes away (good tip). Already at the crag were a bunch of friends of ours – all ex-pats, some living in France some in Spain. The stamina legend that is Mike Owen was working the incredible stamina pitch of Síndrome de Stendhal, a super long 7c+ while his wife Elaine patiently nursed a very sore finger and belayed.

Mike Owen Sindrome de Stendhal 7c+

Mike Owen Sindrome de Stendhal 7c+

As we chatted to the Brits a French couple arrived and we realised it was a couple we’d seen at Teverga a few days before. They were enjoying their visit to Asturias and set about sending a few classics: Rumenes power al vino, 7a+, and Invocando de Onan, 7a one of the most ‘tufariest’ routes at this very ‘tufary’ crag!!

As I watched and snapped away I realised how burned I had got at the beach and my keeness to climbed waned…however, watching Marek Cincio from Poland absolutely fight his way up the 38 metre pitch of El día del arquero, 7c,  got me inspired. A brilliant effort he nearly fell several times before topping out on one of the best pitches there…

El dia del arquero, 7c. 38 metres of pure pump!!

Marek Cincio on El dia del arquero, 7c. 38 metres of pure pump!!

Our day eventually started about 6.30 and I warmed up on my favourite, La Tufa, 6b a great little route. However, after a bright start things went rapidly downhill as Mary started to feel a bit ‘sunstrokey’ and my pink flesh was feeling the pinch squeezed into my harness. An abortive attempt on a couple of routes failed and we slunk off down to La Cuadrona bar (another top tip) to be refreshed and revived by Chucho!!

All’s well that ends well and we ended the night chatting away to friends we hadn’t seen for a while and vowing next time to use a bit more sunblock!!