Tag Archives: roca verde

Teverga – Entecampos delivers as ever…

We were slightly worse for wear after the ‘bonitada’ (tuna festival) in the village of Aciera (just under Quirós). As ever Spanish hospitality was fantastic so after about 4pm the next few hours were taken up with a proper siesta (2 hours sleep). After that we managed to get back in the camper van and drive the 10 short minutes from Quirós to park up at a busy Teverga.

Men and grils...doesn´t change the world over... The next morning the parking  was, as usual, buzzing and there were a lot of climbers milling around ready to go…although as usual in Spain loads of them didn’t make a move particularly quickly.  So after a quick coffee in the always friendly Bar Sobia we decided on Entecampos – almost the closest sector and still with plenty to do; even though we´d been there loads.

Mary sends the first pitch of Nirvana 6b...

Mary sends the first pitch of Nirvana 6b…

Starting on Nirvana 6b we enjoyed the cool fresh air after the previous days storms and marvelled how the crag was completely dry even after the near wash out of the Saturday.  I then jumped on Diablo 6c, the short version and got a shock as it seemed hard than I remembered; fingery and intrictae it would be easy to fall of this neat little route.
For a change we the moved to the top of the sector: always empty yet with some of the best routes around. I had done Tijeruca 250 7a/+ before but the quality once again impressed. 35 metres, 16 bolts and a gently ‘leading you on’ feeling culminating in a pretty tricky move high on the route.

A very foreshortened view of the route...

A very foreshortened view of the route…

Mary did well on a top rope and my arms seemed as though they recovered / warmed up so I picked a route I’d wanted to do for ages – El último flote 7a+/b. Another long route, this time 28 metres, the start had always put me off – a decidedly thin looking tufa/groove which led to the steep roof and the superb looking tufa groove above.

The very thin and tricky initial groove of El último flote 7a+/b

The very thin and tricky initial groove of El último flote 7a+/b

Well the groove was a grim as it looked, super thin and a bit dirty I slapped for the finishing jug of that section very, very relieved!! Motoring through the roof I felt Ok but at the top of the tufa strewn groove the pump hit and form then it was ‘sh%t or bust’ to the top. Crawling higher and higher I though I was going to make it but confronted with the last move my arms failed and a desperate lunge for the top failed….

Shit or bust...bust!!

Shit or bust…bust!!

Lowering off i was both happy I’d got so close but pissed off that this was the first 7a+ i’d fallen off across the whole of Entecampos!

Still a great day out and as ever Entecampos delivers!!

Cerro corona….a crag with a view!

Wow…The hottest day of the year, a very unusual March day of 25 degrees, and I’m sweating my way up the 40 minute walk-in to Cerro corona. The imposing butress overlooks the town of Carrena in the east of Asturias and is one of those places you look at, say ‘wow’ yet never seem to get round to going to.

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We’d planned this day for a while and we got lucky as although it’s  hot the light is amazing and as this shot from the valley opposite shows even the moon wants to get a suntan.

Cerro corona is the crag on the left and as you can see the walk in is steep and tree covered and long. It’s left me a bit drained – and maybe that’s why i get so pumped on the warm up. This long and involved 6b,  Fistro de diedros, is 26 metres of technical grooves and hard-to-see holds on perfect rock.

The sun beats down as I look for a spot to take some photos from. I finally find a place up a tree and we get to work. In the full sun the route looks tricky but also looks amazing set against the backdrop of the Picos with Picu Uriellu standing out behind.

First go I don’t get the light right but the climber doesn’t get the sequence either and so half an hour later I’m back up the tree. This time he sends and so do I  and we have our shot for the guide, epitomising the amazing climbing and magificent scenery encountered climbing in the Oriente of Asturias.

Both baked, though him more than me, we sit in the shade for half an hour until it’s my turn. Luckily I send first go and we pack up, job done and head down…only to be confronted by a final treat, the Picos ‘in full effect’ staring us in the face as we descend!

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