Category Archives: Uncategorized

Mas chapas a los equipadores / More bolts given away!!

Hace un mes, empece otra vez a doñar materiales a la gente. Primero fui a ver Alberto Hontavilla el ´rey de La Hermida´ donde ha abierto un monton de vías y escuelas. Fuimos con James Pearson y Caroline Cialvaldini y escalamos juntos a otro de sus nuevos sectores  y con vías hasta 40 metros no esta barato a equipar!!
Y al fin del día lo dí  40 más chapas y parabolts inox para seguir con su increíble trabajo!

Otra vez, mil gracias a José de Ludo Aventura – www.ludoaventura.es – por su ayuda comprar las chapas.

Over the last few weeks I have bought more bolts through the money raised by Roca Verde. With these I have started to donate more once again to the most active equippers. So on a recent visit to La Hermida I met up with Alberto Hontavilla the guy who’s probably done more new routes there than anyone. We climbed together at one of his amazing new venues with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini and had a great day. I was pleased that the last set he’d had from me had helped him open the brilliant sector of El Infierno and I handed him another 40 stainless bolts and hangars.

Alberto in action on one his amazing new crags!

Alberto in action on one his amazing new crags!

He was super psyched and  it was great to see that the help from the book is going to the people who are actually making a difference.

Once again thanks to José at Ludo Aventura – www.ludoaventura.es – for his invaluable help with buying the bolts.

Many thanks to Ludo Aventura www.ludoaventura.es/

Many thanks to Ludo Aventura www.ludoaventura.es/

Sector nuevo / New sector – La Castellana, Bóvedas, Teverga

Aqui tienes los croquis actualizado para el sector semi-nuevo, arriba de Bóvedas, Teverga. Vías cortas con roca excelente – pero nada facile solo vías del septimo grado o arriba.
Here´s the topo for  a cool new sector in Teverga, La Castellana, short routes on great rock…nothing easy however, all 7´s and above including a new 8c.

La Castellana Topo
And to give you an idea of the climbing style, here´s me on one of the easier routes…in fact the easiest, El Relate, 7a+!

Mas chapas del fondo a la gente

Roca Verde sigue a dar materiales a la gente que estan equipando y re-equipando. Hace unos dias yo di 50 chapas y parabolts mas y unos reuniones a la gente del Refugio del Llano quien siguen a hacer mucho trabajo a la escuela.

Y tambien yo di 50 chapas y parabolts inoxidable al Grupo de montaña Peña Sobia. Ahora mismo estan abriendo sectores nuevos y re-equipando en muchos sitios. Gracias especialamente a Armando y Cesar por su trabajo…

Entonces pronto seran mas vias para disfrutar en Teverga y Quiros !! Buen trabajo chavales!!

Materiales por Quirós

Materiales por Quirós

Y otra vez muchas gracias a Ludo Aventura y Kop de Gas para sus apoyos…

Many thanks to Ludo Aventura www.ludoaventura.es/

Many thanks to Ludo Aventura www.ludoaventura.es/

Thanks to Kop de Gas http://www.kopdegas.com/

Thanks to Kop de Gas http://www.kopdegas.com/

Bouldering in Teverga

Asturias has quite a few good bouldering spots, which I’ll hopefully detail in later Blogs – however, in the last couple of weeks we have been sampling the delights of the boulder field above El Cantu in Teverga.

Lots of boulders in an impressive setting!! Placas del sol behind..

Lots of boulders in an impressive setting!! Placas del sol behind..

Impressively situated below the huge, imposing walls of Placas del Sol (read more here) this jumble of blocks provides aound 100 problems with a good spread of grades: from 4 to 8b.

My first time was during the Encuentro, organised by the local climbing group  Grupo Montaña Escalada Aguja Sobia and unfortunately I arrived late missing a perfect morning of chilly rock.

Ignacio Mulero on the 8b

Ignacio Mulero on the 8b

However, as the forecast rain began to fall I still got try a fair few problems as it spat intermittently and watch (slightly dumbstruck) as local hotshot  Ignacio Mulero nearly did an 8b!!

The day got me a bit more psyched for the boulders so we returned few days later with a crew of friends who were training for an upcoming South African trip.

Juan on a brilliant 6a...in a superb setting!

Juan on a brilliant 6a…in a superb setting!

Once again out-classed I did at least this time manage few more problems than before and even though I felt 100% like a route climbing a few of the old bouldering reflexes kicked in.

As ever, limestone bouldering gives nothing away and some of the grades felt brutal. But watching the guys and girls send gave me some enthusiasm and optimism and I a pretty sure that with a few training sessions I can return and bag something a bit harder!

Jairo Pandiella, Hijos de Puta 7b+

Jairo Pandiella, Hijos de Puta 7b+

And finally here’s a little video of something I hope to get on soon…some new boots might help for the very tiny left foothold though!!

Quick Feedback from satisfied visitor + Social links…

I am always very happy when someone comes to Asturias and the surrounding regions and likes it…and I am even happier when they give my book a great review too.

So a big thanks to Ben Farley who sent me this feedback on Facebook and seemed to like both…

“We bought your guide and spent a month in the Picos/Asturias/Leon as part of the very extended trip around Europe that we are currently suffering. On the way we have used many guidebooks but I can honestly say that your guide is one of the best we’ve come across. Accurate approach info, consistent grades and near perfect topos thoughout. The stunning routes on perfect rock, in wonderful locations made our time in the area a highlight of the year so far. So varied too. We will be back.”

You can follow our Facebook page here: https://www.facebook.com/RocaVerdeClimbing
And you can follow us on Twitter here: @rocaverdeclimb
And on Instagram here: rocaverdeclimb

Big Rockfall at Quirós / Gran desprendimiento en Quirós

Following a week of rain there´s been a big rockfall at Sector El Llano en Quirós – one of the most popular climbing areas in Asturias. The rockfall was from the top of the classic and much climbed route El Llano and although not confirmed is suspected to have affected a lot of routes in the direct line of the fall.

Certainly following more rain and stormy weather the are should be avoided for the time being as there is plenty of debris. It looks like the areas of Ventolin and the RH parts of La Amarilla should be OK to climb on but please be aware that to get to Candela you must cross under this sector and there will be plenty of loose rock for a long while.

More info will be published as soon as we find out…

The big orange scar is clearly visible at the top of El Llano..

The big orange scar is clearly visible at the top of El Llano..

ATENCIÓN NOTA INFORMATIVA!!
El pasado Jueves 4 de diciembre hubo un gran desprendimiento en la zona de Llano, un montón de bloques cayeron desde la parte de arriba de las vías “El Llano y el Espolón Mágico” siendo estas probablemente las más afectadas.
Hemos visto desperfectos en varios anclajes de las vías Caperucita Floja y Bravo Torito. Se informo a los técnicos de la federación, desde la FEMPA y el Refugio del Llano os pedimos que no os acerquéis por la zona, hasta que se realice una revisión y limpieza de la misma. Es peligroso escalar en los sectores situados izquierda del Ventolin: La Amarilla, El Espolón Mágico, El Llano, La Candela, Alcotán y Escambellao.
Cuando mejore la meteorología se procederá y hacer una evaluación minuciosa, os mantendremos informados.

Gracias al Refugio del Llano Quiros para la información

Más chapas donadas desde el fondo…

Esta tarde fui al Refugio Del Llano, Quirós, para dar material para ayudarles a empezar otra ronda del re-equipamiento de la escuela.

Materiales por Quirós

Materiales por Quirós

La escuela  es una de las mas populares en Asturias pero todavia unas vías faltan chapas buenas y van a empezar pronto a re-equipar. Espero que en las semanas que viene yo puedo trabajar con ellos.

Puedes ver mas sobre el refugio aqui blog.refugioquiros.com o en su FB https://www.facebook.com/pages/Refugio-Del-LLano-Quiros/286642861530839?fref=ts

Puedes ver mas sobre el fondo aqui

Bolt Fund – El Condado re-equipping

Roca Verde is proud that we have established a bolt fund and I have started to get in contact with those hardy souls who are doing new routes or re-equipping.

This week I got in contact with David Acido who has taken on the task of cleaning up and re-equipping El Condado.  Close to Pola de Laviana this was an important proving ground in the late 90’s but due to the road being moved it has made it a less accessible and almost forgotten spot.

David has taken on the task of cleaning and re-equipping and so with money from the Roca Verde bolt fund I provided him with a load of stainless steel bolts and some belays too. I said I’d also help him Hopefully we will also produce new topos for the area and re-vitalise this once popular spot.

You can see more on his Facebook group

David with the material provided by the Roca Verde bolt fund.

David with the material provided by the Roca Verde bolt fund.

There’s plenty more bolts available and I am in the midst of contacting people to hand over materials

More bolts bought with the Roca Verde bolt fund...

More bolts bought with the Roca Verde bolt fund…

You can see more about who and where Bolt Fund bolts have gone on our bolt fund page Bolt Fund

Roca Verde guidebook review by Miles Gibson for Climber Magazine

This month sees the publication of another review of the Roca Verde guidebook, this time in Climber magazine.

Reviewed by Miles Gibson I am very happy to say that he thinks it’s a good guide and heartily recommends the area.
You can read it below:

Roca Verde review by Miles Gibson publshed by Climber Magazine Nov 2014

Roca Verde review by Miles Gibson publshed by Climber Magazine Nov 2014