Old Dogs New Tricks Day 10 – Broken Man

Thursday 11th Feb – Day 10

I’m now 10 days into my challenge, it’s been six days since my test, and  and I am still feeling busted. The painful realisation is that I probably tried harder and my test than I had in any climbing or training in 10 years – and that I am going to have to carry on like that to get anywhere what I want to do.

The easy bit of the test...

The easy bit of the test…

Saturday morning was a world of aches – nothing too bad it seemed but shoulders, which had borne the brunt of the Lattice Board, were very, very tired. We arrived back in Spain on the Sunday after the test and with the travelling and driving I was tired so Monday was a rest day. However on Tuesday the crag had called and I went out to Gradura one of the steepest crags around…basically a huge cave with the easiest warm-up 7a+ and most of the routes at around 8a.

I warmed up on my board – and didn’t feel bad – but it was only when I got on the crag and tried to move on the warm up I clicked that I was still, plainly speaking, bollocksed!!! My shoulders just weren’t working and things went from bad to worse as I got on the super steep 7c…1 dog, 2 dogs 3, 4, 5…I couldn’t do more than two moves without needing the rope. It was at this point that I understood how much the test had taken out of me. 4 days later and I was still broken!

Samba Pa Ti - a bridge too far...

Samba Pa Ti – a bridge too far…

I was depressed…ffs I am 49 can I do this??…if the test had broken me what would happen when I tried to train!



2 thoughts on “Old Dogs New Tricks Day 10 – Broken Man”

  1. Francisco Marin managed 8b+ at 60. Firstly you need a route that suits you. In your late 40’s and into your 50’s you need a stamina route. A route that may be as 8a or 8a+ followed by an 8a extension giving an overall 8b+ grade. Secondly you need opportunity; ie close to home and to be able get on the route when you want. Thirdly, body weight reduction when you’re ready to redpoint . Fourthly, train specifically for the route in mind. Fifthly, avoiding injury by not over training one aspect which conflicts with the fourth point ! Good luck and I’ll be reading your blog with interest.

    ps I’m 54 and not climbed 8b+ so I know fuck all about it.

    1. Thanks for the comment!!! Appreciate the sentiments I didn’t know about Francisco Marin and I think you have nailed exactly the process I need to think about. Luckily I live right in the midst of loads of crags – however, there’s only about 7 8b+ to choose from. I am going to train for about 3 months and if I am not injured I’ll start looking then.

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