At my local training facility big with a few different angles to go at...

Old Dogs New Tricks – Day 27 – The Training #1- Slow and steady…

It’s been about two weeks since I started Tom’s program and I thought I’d give it all time to breathe before I put down my thoughts about my first ever training plan.

But let’s rewind…

I had made my challenge: to climb 8b+ before I turned 50 (giving me a year) and Tom Randall (maybe out of pity) had agreed to help. So I dutifully turned up at his Lattice board training facility and put myself through what turned out to be a pretty gruelling test. 

The easy bit of the test...

The easy bit of the test…

So when Tom handed me my plan about a week after I my test I was initially a bit taken aback…there were reams of paper and those kind of things I normally back away from…but also there didn’t seem that much to do. So I played at it for a day or so getting my head into gear – seeing how the facilities I had matched up to the program; trying to get used to the idea of being indoors a lot more that I had been and looking at my week and planning (something I’m not great at!).

Back to school...

Back to school…

Then came the phone call: I needed to clear a bunch of stuff up with Tom and after leafing the sheets and doing a few of the exercises i had some (as they turned out to be) stupid questions!!

First question: ‘After I finish my day’s set training can I train?’

Now this may sound like a stupid question but I after I had done the first exercise on the list for ‘Conti’ I wasn’t tired…so what’s a boy to do?

Train hard…that’s the thing isn’t it, get trashed…go home tired!! The answer…a resounding no…’We’re building a base, you need to get the basics in place before  you can get onto the strengthening and power sessions.’

Training-Tablon

Second question: ‘In which case can I go and try my projects’…
A sigh and a second ‘No’ and ‘We’re building a base…etc etc etc’ Then the concession…’Ok you can climb but only up to 7a/7a+’…and then gently – like he was talking to a small child rather than a 50 year old child – ‘Richie, we’re building something, we need to lay the foundations…if you’re body isn’t ready when you try to train hard it’ll fall apart…sound familiar?’

And it did sound familiar, the tearing of fingers, the tightening of muscles leading to spasms which stop you for a week…or two…the distant memory of various physios marvelling at how my twisted and knotted body still functioned…

‘Ok’ I conceded a lightbulb slowly turning on in my convoluted all-action bull-in-a-china-shop mind…’slow and steady wins the race’

Let’s see how that goes…!

 

 

Old Dogs New Tricks – Day 11 – Man with a plan (and a folder)

Sunday 7th Feb – Day 13  (Unlucky for some)

So after plugging in my results, checking out the answers to my questionnaire, (and stopping guffawing at my insane goal), Tom sent my training plan through on Thursday. But having only given it a once over on Friday morning I only got down to studying it to day.

It’s a hefty spereadsheet filled with coloured boxes and the next thirteen weeks of my life marked out. It’s a new world for me and the biggest shock is that I actually have be proactive and plan my weeks – it seems obvious in retrospect but I was hoping that everything would be laid out on a plate!!! I suppose however, great a trainer Tom is he can’t know when I have the time spare to actually train…

Back to school...

Back to school…

The other part that I have to consider (and didn’t think about) is planning for the activities – I need to make traverses and problems of the required standard for the various activities: AnCap, EnCap, Split Continuity (whatever those are) And the downside of living out in the countryside next to the crags is that there’s no climbing wall nearby to quickly jump on pre-set routes of the required grade.

So Sunday was spent fiddling around at my local wall playing with holds, trying to figure out what a 6b traverse on a verticalish wall is and generally trying to get back into the indoor swing of things. It’s been a long time since I have done anything indoors and it’s all a bit confusing…and hateful!! LOL

Anyway a little confused but plenty psyched I now have a training folder and an iron will to do myself proud – the first statement is a little more true than the second!!!

I’ll be calling Tom to fill me in on the ins and outs and it’s session time Starting Monday!!!

This is for me to remember everyday:

My body's going to be in trouble...

My body’s going to be in trouble…

Thanks to www.betamonkeys.co.uk for the laugh..I’ll need it!!

Old Dogs New Tricks Day 10 – Broken Man

Thursday 11th Feb – Day 10

I’m now 10 days into my challenge, it’s been six days since my test, and  and I am still feeling busted. The painful realisation is that I probably tried harder and my test than I had in any climbing or training in 10 years – and that I am going to have to carry on like that to get anywhere what I want to do.

The easy bit of the test...

The easy bit of the test…

Saturday morning was a world of aches – nothing too bad it seemed but shoulders, which had borne the brunt of the Lattice Board, were very, very tired. We arrived back in Spain on the Sunday after the test and with the travelling and driving I was tired so Monday was a rest day. However on Tuesday the crag had called and I went out to Gradura one of the steepest crags around…basically a huge cave with the easiest warm-up 7a+ and most of the routes at around 8a.

I warmed up on my board – and didn’t feel bad – but it was only when I got on the crag and tried to move on the warm up I clicked that I was still, plainly speaking, bollocksed!!! My shoulders just weren’t working and things went from bad to worse as I got on the super steep 7c…1 dog, 2 dogs 3, 4, 5…I couldn’t do more than two moves without needing the rope. It was at this point that I understood how much the test had taken out of me. 4 days later and I was still broken!

Samba Pa Ti - a bridge too far...

Samba Pa Ti – a bridge too far…

I was depressed…ffs I am 49 can I do this??…if the test had broken me what would happen when I tried to train!

 

 

Sector Nuevo – New Sector – Mazuco LLanes

Aqui tienes un sector nuevo acerca el pueblo de Mazuco, Llanes…puedes ver la approximacion en el Blog de Victor Sanchez Martinez…muchas gracias a el y sus companeros Mikel Ibarzábal Rodríguez y otros…todavia esta en obra y necesita limpieza en algunos partes pero puedes escalar…

http://entretenimientovertical.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/cabeza-alta-mazucu-nuevo-sector-de.html

CroquisMuy importante hay restriciones por nidificaciones entre 1 Marzo y 31 Julio 

Here’s a great new sector close to the small village of Mazuco in the Llanes region. Another great find from Victor and his team of equippers – thanks a lot guys!!

You can see more and how to get there at: http://entretenimientovertical.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/cabeza-alta-mazucu-nuevo-sector-de.html

There are bird restrictions here between 1 March and 31st July – so no climbing!!!!