Category Archives: Uncategorized

El reto de McClure – 5 8b+ en 5 dias!

Lo agradece mucho que Steve McClure vino a Asturias para ayudarme elegir el 8b+ más fiable para mi intentar.

Lo malo era que no podia escalar con el porque tenias unas lesiones, sin embargo, por lo menos, yo podia ver Steve escalando en vías que me gusta probar y decidmos a grabar le.

Entonces tenemos dos videos sobre el reto que se lo pusi para hacer cinco vías de 8b – en solo 5 días…

Parte uno es abajo…

La Hermida guide in stores across northern Spain…

After a hectic week of deliveries – then re-deliveries after the books sold out – our new guidebook is available in a ton of shops and bars across the region. And as the first batch sold out so quickly so we’ve done a second visit and loaded the stores with copies.

A quick list of the stores with books in the La Hermida region is:
Santander – Eiger Sport
Torrelavega – K2 Aventura
La Hermida – La Cuadrona /  Andaras
Potes – Tienda Indiana / Bar La Reunion / Libreria Vela / Bustamante de Potes
Arenas de Cabrales – La Tienda Nueva / Cendon
Cangas de Onis – Tuñon – Libreria Imagen

Then further west – around Oviedo and the Valles de Trubia:
Gijón – Indoor Wall
Aviles – Gravity Climbing
Oviedo – D-Ruta / Oxigeno
Valles de Trubia – Bar Sobia, Entrago / Bar Aladino, San Martin / Club de Montana Aguja de Sobia, Entrago.

Or you can buy the book direct from our pages…

http://bit.ly/BuyLaHermida

La guiá contiene un montón de fotos nuevas muy chulas de la escalada del valle...The guidebook cover features two of the most prominent climbers of the area...

La guiá contiene un montón de fotos nuevas muy chulas de la escalada del valle…The guidebook cover features two of the most prominent climbers of the area…

 

 

Caroline Ciavaldini gets stuck into Dimensiones Paralelas, 7c+, Carcalosa

La Hermida – A quick guide to the best of ‘tufaland’…

In our new guide to La Hermida we reveal a bunch of great new spots and many of them have one thing in common…

Brilliant tufas.

So much so, that after her visit Caroline Ciavaldini christened the area ‘tufaland’…and it’s true that for the addict of this type of climbing there’s tons to go at.

So I thought it’d be a nice idea to rate the crags in terms of their overall ‘tufaness’ – the old and the new crags – to give a hit-list of venues.

1. Carcalosa – Just for the scale of the left wall Carcalosa has to be number one. An amazing crag and a ton of tufas to get stuck into – maybe the highlight being Dimensiones Paralela, 7c+, the super-obvious ‘train line’ tufas on the right wall.

Caroline Ciavaldini gets stuck into Dimensiones Paralelas, 7c+, Carcalosa

Caroline Ciavaldini gets stuck into Dimensiones Paralelas, 7c+, Carcalosa

2. Rumenes – Even with the emergence of other crags this is still some of the best tufa climbing around – and the first time the top wall is seen nearly everyone gasps; some in shock and some in delight!!

3. El Infierno – Like a supercharged Rumenes this is a wall simply covered in tufas. There’s possibly less ‘easy routes’, with the grades starting at 7a and above but this is a great venue and has shade in the afternoon…

Alberto Hontavilla. Balambambu, 7c, El Infierno

Alberto Hontavilla. Balambambu, 7c, El Infierno

4. Estraguena – All the routes apart from one take tufas at some point and strangely for a tufa crag none of the routes seem that steep.  The routes have a good length and the grades are good for the ego and for onsighting too…

5. Cueva Hermida – Very good new venue – and the only downsides are that there are very few easy routes and that there’s not a huge amount either. A steep wall turns into a roof and the climbing is powerful and pumpy.

Tanya Meredith on the final slap of Karim Abdul Jabbar, 7b+,

Tanya Meredith on the final slap of Karim Abdul Jabbar, 7b+,

6. Cueva Corazón – Classic hardcore tufa/roof venue. Lots of top level challenges here in a superb atmospheric spot.

7. Pechón – Sea-side climbing with a good smattering of tufas thrown in. What could be better?

8. El Salmón – Not totally a tufa crag but the central section of the main wall has some really good, short mid-grade tufas and on the bottom wall there’s some steep, exciting routes too.

Gema Lanza, El Salmón

Gema Lanza, El Salmón

9. Cicera – Maybe known more for the wall-climbing rather than the tufas this still has plenty of impressive lines. Atlantis, Pacifis, and Veneno azul are all great.

10. Parelosa – Not all tufas but what there are have plenty to offer – possibly the best being Relatividad, 7c+. The whole crag needs a bit of traffic but it will be a popular hardcore venue…

11. El Lado Oscuro – Only a few tufa routes but of very high-quality and both Museo Coconut, 7c, and Gretaline, 8a+, are stunning.

Reini Wallmann, Gretaline, 8a+, F. José Alberto Puente

Reini Wallmann, Gretaline, 8a+, F. José Alberto Puente

You can buy our new guide here… http://bit.ly/BuyLaHermida

And you can watch our video of James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini in action at Carcalosa here:  http://bit.ly/RocaVerdeRoadTrip_1

 

Actualizaciones de Teverga…Teverga new routes

Actualizaciones de Teverga…vías nuevas y vías terminadas. Los primeros  son de Muro Techo. Menú de Diá, 8a: Pinxo de pollo, 7b: Caliza Reserva, 7c. Gracias a Javier López, Pablo Martín y el Club de Escalada Astur Vertical y Grupo Montaña Escalada Aguja Sobia
Some more updates in Teverga, this time at Muro Techo: 19 Menú de Diá, 8a: A. Pinxo de pollo, 7b: B. Caliza Reserva, 7c. thanks to Javier López, Pablo Martín and the Club de Escalada Astur Vertical Grupo Montaña Escalada Aguja Sobia

Muro Techo Final New Routes 112016

Y más actualizaciones de Teverga…esta vez son de Bóvedas y trabajo de Armando Suarez Diez y Hectorin. Una todavia proyecto pero la otra, Eterna mirada, 7c, ya es muy popular y tambien tiene la ventaja que se queda seca casi siempre.
More new routes in Teverga, this time Bóvedas. One is still a project while the other, Eterna mirada, 7c, has proved very popular not least because it’s steep and nearly always dry!! Great work Armando Suarez Diez and Hectorin and others.

Bovedas Abajo 16052012 V2 New Colours

 

Roca Verde Edition 2 – more details…

The first edition of the guidebook to everybody’s new favorite Spanish climbing destination sold out in just 18 months and so Roca Verde gets a makeover. Totally revised and updated, this new version comes jam-packed with even more crags and routes across the regions of Asturias, Cantabria and Leon in north-west Spain.

La guia nueva de Roca Verde...the new Roca Verde guide...

La guia nueva de Roca Verde…the new Roca Verde guide…

Working with many of the most active groups and equippers from each area we have added 6 crags never before published, as well as new sectors at existing crags and a couple of classic crags missed from the first edition. Roca Verde now has over 50 crags with 239 sectors to go at; and with over 500 additional routes there’s a staggering total of nearly 3500 routes packed into this edition.

Every topo has been overhauled and updated with new colours for each grade of route: making an ‘at a glance’ assessment of each sector for your grade much easier. In addition there’s even more superb photos, from some of the regions’ best photographers, featuring some of the best routes and climbers in the area capturing the spirit of each crag. In this new edition there’s also an exclusive overview of the bouldering in Asturias; giving you directions and downloads of topos for some of the best spots.

Hay muchos búlders guapos probar en Asturias...there are actually a lot of great places to boulder in Asturias...

Hay bastante búlders buenas probar en Asturias….there are actually a lot of great places to boulder in Asturias…

Finally, (and maybe a first in climbing guidebooks), there are QR codes scattered throughout the book linking to videos of various routes and boulder problems across the regions. In this way you can get an even stronger flavour of the venues and get some ‘sweaty-palm’ psyche even before you arrive.

Gran miguelini

Escanear el QR a ver el video…scan the QR code to watch the video…

 

So with over 50 crags, 239 sectors and nearly 3500 routes; an overview of the bouldering; links to videos and over 200 full colour action photos this is the definitive guide to the Roca Verde region.

Roca Verde 2nd edition is available direct here at www.rocaverdeclimbing.com and all good climbing stores.

Roca Verde 2 – Download the new map to check out new venues…

You can download the new map from Roca Verde which has all the new crags on it as well as a more obvious layout.

New Asturias Map

Covering the three regions of Asturias, Cantabria and León and with over 50 crags, 239 sectors and nearly 3500 routes; an overview of the bouldering; links to videos and over 200 full colour action photos this is the definitive guide to the Roca Verde region.

 

Old Dogs New Tricks Day 40 (f//K it´s going quick) Injury Crisis

First Injury crisis

It’s not how you deal with the ups it’s how you deal with the downs.

So I’ve done something to my arm. Something random and the day before my week’s holiday to a big cave. And without an obvious cause. I wasn’t bouldering hard or doing anything odd. I had done a bunch of warm ups, a load of core, some light fingerboarding and was doing a few easy and familiar circuits circuits on my board. I hadn’t had time to do the ‘Split Conti’ session Tom had planned for me but I thought that a light session at the end of a boring week-end of shopping and working followed by a rest day as we travelled south in the motorhome would be perfect.

Yet an hour later I was very sore, with a ring finger which felt odd and a line of pain from my elbow which ran up my arm? A muscle pull, or tendon, something light, or something very bad? It was an injury I hadn’t had before (and I’ve had plenty) soI took some brufen, iced it and went to bed…

Next morning as the brufen wears off I am despondent it’s really sore and I am committed to a trip away…a first big trip with the guy I’ve been climbing with for 5 years and my ‘reward’ for the first few weeks of my training…

So what do I do?

My normal reaction to injuries is to drink!! And stop everything…and my first reaction here is to cancel my trip and curl up in bed and mope.

But this is a cycle that always defeats. Stop everything put on weight, get injured again…I need to be positive so I mentally tuck away the white flag and decide to have a holiday.

To see a part of Spain I haven’t seen, to try the food, take photos, document the trip enjoy the ambience and relax in the sun!!! It’s February for f’s sake who’s going to moan about a few days in southern Spain. I have a guidebook to finish, Blogs to write, fotos to edit. Fuck, my job isn’t, in the immortal words from ‘Letter to Breshnev’, sticking my hand up chicken’s arses 8 hours a day and I’m not trying to escape Aleppo…so what have I got to moan about.

I pack the computer, a bunch of books, my yoga mat, my running shoes and download a load of core and stretching videos. Worst case I don’t climb at all but I come back as fit than I left, having seen a load of new crags to go back to and discovered another part of my adopted country.

Is this what they call progress…??

PS Thanks to everyone who offered advice on my FB…

PPS. I could tell lots of stories about pre-trip injuries where I have cancelled and missed out on amazing journeys – and I don’t want another one.

PPPS. My partner Mary has just endured the same – her voyage to climb in the canaries was screwed by a probable slap tear. She went and had a great fun.

Old Dogs New Tricks Day 10 – Broken Man

Thursday 11th Feb – Day 10

I’m now 10 days into my challenge, it’s been six days since my test, and  and I am still feeling busted. The painful realisation is that I probably tried harder and my test than I had in any climbing or training in 10 years – and that I am going to have to carry on like that to get anywhere what I want to do.

The easy bit of the test...

The easy bit of the test…

Saturday morning was a world of aches – nothing too bad it seemed but shoulders, which had borne the brunt of the Lattice Board, were very, very tired. We arrived back in Spain on the Sunday after the test and with the travelling and driving I was tired so Monday was a rest day. However on Tuesday the crag had called and I went out to Gradura one of the steepest crags around…basically a huge cave with the easiest warm-up 7a+ and most of the routes at around 8a.

I warmed up on my board – and didn’t feel bad – but it was only when I got on the crag and tried to move on the warm up I clicked that I was still, plainly speaking, bollocksed!!! My shoulders just weren’t working and things went from bad to worse as I got on the super steep 7c…1 dog, 2 dogs 3, 4, 5…I couldn’t do more than two moves without needing the rope. It was at this point that I understood how much the test had taken out of me. 4 days later and I was still broken!

Samba Pa Ti - a bridge too far...

Samba Pa Ti – a bridge too far…

I was depressed…ffs I am 49 can I do this??…if the test had broken me what would happen when I tried to train!